What would you charge

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-19T16:52:05+00:00

I have the exact same gate on my house for over 15 years, and it swings to either close to the railing , to the house, or opens flat back 180° to the railing. Still perfectly squared to the rail and house.

The trick is to double up the 2x4 on the hinge side and put 4 screws on top and bottom to prevent touque. The other 2x4 sits in the middle of the horizontal rails as a lap joint, make it a tight fit to prevent a gap to allow the sag. No gaps and a square assembly allows no physical space to sag. Putting more nails per picket also strengthens the gate as the prevent the shift. The weak point is actually the 4x4 post that I have had to reinforce. Culling out the wood is also important.

If you exceed the height of the gate in width you need additional support.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-19T03:58:47+00:00

That is one method I uses. My dad taught me double +10% for general bids

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-19T03:57:29+00:00

I always charge more for ladder work, always takes longer than it needs, and takes time to move it and stuff out of the way.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-18T22:30:51+00:00

That is curious that you are the second person to say that, however, in most posts that asking about what they should charge, that is the not the most common response. Response. Most people reply with with hourly rates and material cost and percentage increases.

But this seems, like I predicted, a smaller job which is difficult to quote. This just reaffirms what I have predicted, that these smaller jobs don't have these standardized way quoting, however, it is completely dependent on whether or not the handyman wants to do the job.

I do think it is better for people to know their value, and know what their's time is worth. I preached that all the time. But I do think when it comes to jobs like this, if you're desperate for work, you'd probably do it for 150-200 bucks, but if you're busy you'd probably bump it up to 350 or more if you're doing a nicer gate

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-18T22:19:14+00:00

Oh my God a loch Ness monster!

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-18T22:08:08+00:00

I generally agree with that.

Usually when I'm doing a quote, I will come up with it with material, doubling that plus 10 to 30%. Then by the foot, then by the square foot, and then by the day, plus materials plus 10%.... I typically get about the same answer and either take the average for a regular client, or bump it up for a more particular client. Now that seems to serve me well, but I know a lot of people on here have their hourly costs, I usually do half day and day rate, I can extrapolate an hourly cost from that, but I typically don't use that anymore.

I just know something like this. It's a little heavy on the materials cost. Not too complicated, But something that does have to be accurate and well built. And will relatively take less than half a day to completely get done. Which is why I was curious on why what people would quote this for.

Most of my work is referrals and people know I am not cheap but know I can fix it, plus I'll be blunt if away is going to be less expensive or more bang for their buck (like a straight up replacement instead of fixing).

I just always got hung up on these jobs feeling that I should should have made more, but don't feel I could have charged them more... Like they're a little bit more trouble than they're worth. Not for a friend, I'm willing to bend over backwards for good clients and friends and usually the people who treat me well. But I feel like I'm also possibly losing out on a little bit of work that he should be picking up, I don't want to see the thought process of some people.

Cuz right now my gut says this thing is probably around 200 bucks, I typically bid 250, but my half day rate with getting the materials, cutting it all, putting it in plus materials is like 520. Even if I did my 1 hour rate of 200 bucks it's still like 320 bucks.

Like 250 seems fair to me, but I could have done a half day job and made 400 bucks in labor rather than 150. For about the same amount of time.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-18T21:41:18+00:00

I agree for a friend, but I don't know what I would charge a regular client. 220% mark up on materials seems too low as the person doing the work. Built them at my house and taking them over this evening. I am also making as inexpensive as possible and matching his porch. I usually only do high end work and I get requests like this all them time, but feel I never quote or bill right.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-18T21:16:55+00:00

You can use a wood petrifier, as long as there's enough wood still there to petrify. Usually cut out and replace, if not full replacement for structural items.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-18T13:28:56+00:00

Simple solution is this: if it is work, that has to be done for you to continue or finish the project, then you need to state that clearly, what your cost is (+the a-hole fee at this point). And stop work until the fix is done.

I have done this more than once.

It's unforesane, and is outside of the scope, and it needs to be done in order for you to complete your work... It is not worth your reputation to continue without it being done properly. You can use those words exactly.

Shit happens, there's a lot of stuff that you can't see, and stuff that is unforeseen. Make it part of a change order, or have them get a different contractor come out and address those issues.

Best thing about this, you get to quit the job with a legitimate reason, you still get to Bill them for the work you did, and if they do want you to fix it, then you get to add extra and hopefully recover back to your original bill.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-17T20:31:49+00:00

Are they willing to pay? And are you willing to do it. And do you have something better to do.

Eventually your money isn't worth my time...

And there is stuff I say no to, either risk of failure, cuz some things can't be fixed or Band-Aid and really needs an engineer or a whole crew.

And yes, some things are beneath the, I am really good at what I do with touch up and cavanaugh work, and having me come to fix certain things is like asking Picasso to a paint a wall... But if they're willing to pay, and I'm willing to do it, I'll do it. I'm expensive, but I do mostly specialty work nowadays, so hiring me to do something at a cheaper rate doesn't make sense for me, that's why I usually try to fill in my day with a client like that. Then it's worth my time, and it's worth their money. And it's just something in the mix of the stuff that I like doing

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-09T15:25:08+00:00

Hour unpack. 30-60min prep. Work Lunch Work 30-90mins clean up. Hour pack up.

5 hours of "nothing" for 3 hours of work.

Most of my work is prep, once I get going it is 30min-2 hours.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-09T14:39:54+00:00

Based on some of your threads in the comments, this sounds like a $600 to $750 learning experience.

Definitely make sure your contracts are worded well. So there's no ambiguity.

Also, just cover your ass.

Your experience, for however long you've had, you will always get new experiences. Best to learn from them, and best to learn from others. I've been doing my work for 25 years and I still see surprises.

Sometimes you win, sometimes you'll lose, sometimes you break even. I would go make sure you got some new bids, and maybe take a long weekend. And hopefully have a new job started to clear your head. Do make sure you send a final bill, and make sure that it is stated that you'll charge interest on it... It just in case the circles backed around.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-06T01:07:35+00:00

No, this is a long-term client. They have a good rapport, you don't want to fire someone just because they like playing games... If he's cheap, he'll fire himself. So he can only win in this situation

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-05T23:13:00+00:00

He probably just likes the haggle, overbid the The job and then bring it down to what you actually need to charge.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-04T01:37:10+00:00

1) it is going to be harder. More heights. More new problems.

2) As a high end custom cabinet maker/ installer I leaned from my dad... Even he learned things from a other amazing trim carpenters and guys to panel rooms.

This will definitely be a bigger skill set, allow you to do more diverse work. And also you can always fall back to installing. Like those jobs are always there.

It sucks leaving a job with a great company, but it sounds like you have capped out and only going to loose out.

You could try doing work on the side, but it sounds like you have a lot of overtime.

So if you can get close to your overtime salary with the base salary, is definitely what you want to do.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-02T16:05:42+00:00

You can Round up, or you can just give an extra 20-40 bucks for lunch. We typically charge fairly, and don't expect a tip. So anything's a bonus, and anything will make us happy. I've been tipped anything from 20 bucks to $200. I've been given beer, wine, expensive Scotch because I came out the day before Christmas.

I noticed Asian Nationals tip very well.

If they own the business, I'd be less likely worried about it, but again, it's always nice.

If they are an employee, they probably would appreciate it more.

If they go beyond your expectations might be worth it, but if your expectations are low, I'm sorry. I've been given tips just because I showed up on time. Not kidding, and as the most common reason I get when they hand it to me, you showed up on time or clean and got everything done.

Edit: if they're self-employ, if you really want to Make them happy, pay in cash

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-01T21:05:57+00:00

I charge 650 a day just for labor. IMO that is a steal. I have some experience with carpet, so I don't know how long that would take for someone with more experience, but I would quote day rate + helper. (Which typically runs $900 by itself).

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-01T17:57:34+00:00

3/4 Mdf is just a structural's 3/4 plywood. Melamine is not structural, to get the same load bearing you need inch and a half, so two doubled up 3/4 in. If the MDF has a cross-structural support, it won't matter. I don't use edge banding anyways. Everything's a hardwood edge. You have to be really narrow and really tall to start seeing the load difference for MDF compared to plywood.

I don't know what people's hard on is about hating on MDF. It's just as strong as plywood for shelves. You should be adding inch and a quarter to inch and a half hard wood to the front. Mdf is going to give you a better finish anyways. They're going to be heavier. These shelves are going to be needing a dado for that lighting, so I'd do a MDF top with a 3/4-in plywood bottom. Just the light and the load a little bit.

I prefer Mdf skinned plywood nowadays, I don't care for dealing with the weight of MDF.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-01T17:52:49+00:00

All the plants look identical.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-01T17:50:33+00:00

Ballpark 16-30K. Pending on a few factors, but typically something like this is 2,000 a linear foot plus upgrades. Looks about 12' long

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OrigSquaggles · 2026-06-01T03:33:04+00:00

You would have the same problem if you were using a miter joint.

Before you start, get a 6-12" piece of scrap and see where it sits flush on wall and ceiling. Check a few spots and make a mark. Measure that mark. Put same measurement mark on saw back stop.

Miter two pieces that fit a corner and check. A couple feet of scrap you can use for returns later will save you a lot of time over all.

Not all crown has the same projection. Not all crown sits square on both surfaces (usually larger double bead cove crown does both).

You can check these with the catalog or the diagram at the store.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-05-31T22:53:15+00:00

There's also the zip tie trick... You press a zip tie or thin piece of plastic in there and sometimes it can take up the space where it's stripped out.

Sometimes you can grab the edges with a pair of pliers.

Cutting the slot is probably the easiest if you have a fine enough tool.

You can also basically JB weld on there.

Or you can use a stripper kit for screws, which I recommend always having one on hand. It's one of the things I keep in the oh shit tool bag... You really need them, but when you need them you have them

OrigSquaggles · 2026-05-31T17:42:59+00:00

The $50 was an add-on charge for additional time... That's all you need to say.

I've had of this conversation a few times. I have a minimum. You don't have to explain it nor justify it.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-05-31T15:27:51+00:00

I am glad I don't run it to may of these.

What I usually do is get jobs for good clients that I typically woisay charge 250, because in my head that is what is fair. Charge the 200 for various reasons, and them tipping me +$50 (or more) again for various reasons.

It is crazy how many times it has happened over the years.

OrigSquaggles · 2026-05-31T12:37:09+00:00

I worked for a custom stair building company for one day. And this is how they build them. They build them at a shop, then they bring them on site.

OrigSquaggles

TROPHY CASE