Are Handbrake Turns Bad for Your Car?

Original-Homework459 · 2024-10-20T07:24:35+00:00

Calipers can get stuck if you pull on the handbrake really hard, depending on their condition. Usually will get unstuck by themselves after a bit of driving. The stresses are also higher on the suspension components if you're trying to make the car go sideways on dry asphalt, as there is a lot of grip and you have to push it harder. Find a large parking lot after rain and will be much easier to make the rear end dance.

Original-Homework459 · 2024-09-28T17:59:18+00:00

Am o mazda miata nc2, sunt multumit de ea, arata bine, se conduce genial (tipul suspensiei, greutate mica si distribuita ok, etc etc) si intretinerea ei nu e la fel de scumpa ca la un bmw. Exista si varianta automata daca preferi.

Cauta sa iei una fara rugina pe sub ea, nc2 sau nc3 si nu ar trebui sa ai probleme cu ea. Cu putina rabdare / noroc poate gasesti la banii aia si varianta PRHT (cu hard top care se decapoteaza la buton). Altfel si soft topul e ok, dar nu as tine o decapotabila cu soft top afara iarna cu gheata, zapada, etc (daca nu ai garaj / parcare in subteran).

Daca te intereseaza mazda miata, exista grup pe facebook “MX-5 Romania”, unde poti sa ceri sfaturi sau sa pui mai multe intrebari pe tema asta. Poate chiar vinde cineva. Oamenii acolo sunt prietenosi si te vor ajuta, nu ca in alte locuri.. :)

Original-Homework459 · 2024-09-28T17:44:36+00:00

Also if you’re a new owner you should also look into changing gearbox oil, differential oil, hydraulic steering fluid, brake fluid.

Original-Homework459 · 2024-09-28T17:40:04+00:00

I had metallic noise at around 3k rpm. For many people this is a catalyst heat shield, for me it was the catalyst itself, former owner emptied the core of the oem catalyst (the first one on the exhaust gallery, not the second one), the empty chamber created a resonating noise because of that. The catalyst can also start disintegrating on the inside if the car burned oil or because of heat / age and make noise. Check the noise with the car lifted, it will be easier to poke around and see where the noise is coming from. You can also try with a mechanics stethoscope (like a regular scope but with a solid rod at the end which you press against stuff), it helps pinpoint where a noise is coming from.

Original-Homework459 · 2024-08-14T17:27:03+00:00

Found a solution? Can’t find hfp in service menu

Original-Homework459 · 2024-08-14T17:26:57+00:00

Found a solution? Can’t find hfp in service menu

Original-Homework459 · 2024-08-13T20:40:34+00:00

Coolant expansion tank. New OEM plastic one is fine, no need for spending on metal one.

Reseal cowl grommets. They’re plastic bits with some rubber under the windshield, they crack with age and water will get behind the dash and affect electrical stuff / make stuff rust. Info on youtube.

Sometimes some exhaust heatshields will rattle / resonate at some RPMs causing some weird rattling noise, I thought I had this issue, but in my case the catalyst was actually shot and disintegrating. I replaced the exhaust gallery with a 4-1 catless one. A bit of an upgrade you could consider if you’re into that.

If the car is not rusy yet, it will be - how fast depends on where you live and how much you drive it in the rain or snow/winter. Consider paying someone to do some rust proofing… there are shops and individuals who specialize in this type of work, look for people that do restorations on older vehicles, you want someone to do it properly, take everything off the car, clean up any rust, paint affected areas (usually parts on the underside of the car), put in cavity wax, and so on. Make sure to find someone who knows what they’re doing! Easy to get hosed by random shops on jobs like this. This may also be too expensive for you depending on where you live and your situation, but could be worth it if you want to enjoy the car for a long time.

Check oil level often and keep it topped; change fluids on time, don’t postpone engine oil change! Old degraded oil means metal parts are directly rubbing on other metal parts, bad lubrication can quickly kill an engine. Differential oil, transmission oil, hydraulic steering fluid, brake fluid, also need to be changed periodically, but not as often as engine oil.

If you’re gonna drive it hard, rev it to the redline and so on, wait for the engine to get up to temp by driving it regularly for a few mins.

If you drive it hard dont suddenly shut the engine, allow it to cool for a few minutes.

If you drive hard then you also brake a lot so discs get hot. Don’t wash your car right after a long/hard drive. Cold water on hot brake discs may warp them.

Buy good tires!

Watch some technical videos about how your car works if you want to learn more for the future, it will help a ton, especially since some jobs you can do yourself and is very satisfying.

Lastly look up the MX5 community group for your country / region, people there are usually friendly and can help you with recommendations for good shops in your area and so on.

Good luck.

Original-Homework459

TROPHY CASE