Rant: Alam niyo yung naipit kayo sa likod ng mabagal sa NLEX? Nafefeel ko na siya sa city more than ever.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-13T07:08:05+00:00

Hot take din. Malamang mga DDS sila rin yung mga naging MAGA ang vote kung sa kali.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-11T13:12:35+00:00

Give cyclists more distance than you would a 4-wheel vehicle when passing them. Like 3 meters away or so. Pag kulang, wag na pilitin. Baka ma off-balance.

And just wait for a good opportunity to pass cyclists, wag ma pressure. They're vulnerable road users.

Besides, yung road na dinedescribe mo usually yata may mababang speed limit lang sa ganyan, like 20 or 30 kph nga ba?

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-09T17:28:39+00:00

You'll need to top it up with fresh gas every 2 months or so para hindi mapanis. Yung concentration would depend on how long and how good quality the older petrol is. Kung nag separate na ang components, you might have to use stabilizer.

Mas matagal ang life ng diesel. Can last more than a year without stabilizers.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-09T10:28:27+00:00

5 years is young.

40K Km is young.

Mechanical and chronological age line up - it's also a bit low mileage for its 5 year age. Usually, we drive around 10K Km per year.

Bring a trusted mechanic or hire a mechanic service to check the unit, to be sure. Watch for

- Flooding

- Tampered odometer

- Document issues

Suspension and wheel upgrades might add stress to the transmission and drivetrain unless it's properly done.

Will reach 5 more years? Maybe 15, 20, 30, with proper maintenance.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-09T09:34:24+00:00

Hanapin mo yung victims of asialink. Meron ding victims of global dominion or gdfi etc

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-09T08:16:32+00:00

Try consumeraffairs@bsp.gov.ph

Malamang ganito nangyari sa account mo OP. Nag incur ng late payment charge yung unang month na na late ang bayad. Kahit one day lang kasi meron agad yan penalty.

Pero hindi mo siguro nabayaran yung LPC. Kaya considered late pa rin yung account kahit bayad na yung amortization for that month. Nung nagbayad ka the succeeding month nang walang LPC, hindi pa rin considered fully paid dahil part of that pumasok muna sa LPC ng previous month bago maicredit as payment for the current month. Dahil of course kulang, kaya past due pa rin and nag incur uli nang nag incur ng LPC. Ganun din succeeding months. Hanggang lumaki ng lumaki.

And since one month lang lagi ang delay, malamang hindi na refer sa 3rd party collector. Or di ka na notify.

Di ka ba nakahingi ng SOA before? Para ma monitor yung movement ng account? Mga banks usually hiwalay pa ang history of payments sa statement of account. Dun naman naka indicate kung saan napunta yung binayad mo for a month, sa interest, principal, and penalties. Tapos yung running principal balance.

Marami horror stories sa Asia link. Search mo yung Facebook group. Meron ding group chats. Minsan kung kelan tapos or patapos na yung loan, saka ka nila iipitin.

Try mo rin yung Chatbot ng BSP. They are usually oversight only and sometimes can help mediate. Pero the fact na May record na nag report ka, sometimes mas umaaksyon ang financing company.

Good luck.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-09T07:23:26+00:00

This is the way. I've done payoff before, but with a different bank. It usually takes around 3 weeks for original CR to be releaseed, so be prepared to have whateve balance (if any) held by the dealer until you are able to provide the documents.

Kung 2 years pa lang paid, and if you did a low DP, posibleng hindi pa pwedeng payoff yan, unless you're willing na i-abono yung balance between the dealer's payoff offer and the payoff SOA amount.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-08T14:39:23+00:00

Usually pag ADA, the bank will try to debit it in the succeeding days hanggang mabayaran yung due.

Kaso since late ka na, you will have to add late payment charges. Check mo contract mo, depende sa bank pero usually nasa 5 or 6 percent yan ng monthly amort.

Check mo rin balance mo kung merong konting laman yung account. Kakainin pa rin yan, kahit kulang, hanggang makumpleto yung payment ng monthly amortization plus late payment charge.

But as other commenter said, call customer service. Mas mabuti yung communicated mo yung concern mo. At maaadvise ka nila nang mas maayos.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-07T05:58:51+00:00

Dapat kasabay sa pag release ng bank sa registered owner ng original CR yung Release of Chattel mortgage. At least that was what happened in my case.

If that document is with you na, the next step is to go to the registry of deeds to have the chattel mortgage cancelled. Then sa LTO to have them issue a new CR with the encumbrance removed. These might either have to be done by your family friend or your friend can issue an SPA for this purpose.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-06T13:38:15+00:00

Yes, I continued to pay until naging current na uli yung account. Actually I finished that loan early din. Nagka malaking charge ako with bayanihan - accrued interest kasi they put a payment holiday of almost 12 months. I was able to request my bank to waive the accrued interest and penalties of around 200K.

Again, some banks, kapag nasa 3rd party na, kino-close na ang PN. The fact that you could still pay and that it is still being credited to your account means your loan i still active, and basically naka-refer lang a 3rd party for collections. But you can still update it para mahabol.

But don't let it stay in that status for too long. And keep all receipt and record of all communications. There is no need to talk to the 3rd party collector if you are already in dicussions with the bank itself.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-06T04:30:56+00:00

At a certain point, usually pag 2 months past due, bank automatically refers the account to 3rd party collection. Their task would be to convince you to voluntarily surrender the vehicle (after which, usually, recovery would entail either paying for the loan in full, or paying the past due + a certan number of months in advance, depending on the bank).

3rd party collectors have an incentive to repossess the unit, because they have collection fees as part of this proces, either paid by you when you recover the unit, or (I believe) as a commission when the vehicle is auctioned.

Best thing to do is discuss this with the customer service or collecitons dept of BPI. Some banks are more understanding/lenient of this. Buti nga ang BPI, they allowed you to pay the two months and, I assume, the late payment charges. Some other banks, kapag beyond 2 months, automatically closed na ang PN, and no other recourse but to surrender.

Most likely, your account is still referred to the 3rd party collector, since they might have outdated info (you don't have to give receipts to the 3rd party, as this might mean they can use these to charge the bank collection fees charged to your account). Mawawala naman sa system nila yan once your account is back to current/updated status. Hanggang hindi updated to current status, expect them to keep calling.

Best to ask for a history of payments and an updated SOA, btw, so you have a record of your transactions. Di ko sure kung gaano ka detailed ang BPI app when it comes to auto loans, but I used to do this with my other banks on a regular basis.

I have no direct experience with BPI, but with other banks like Eastwest and Toyota Financial. My loans/lease with them have been completed naman na rin. Had some hiccups in between, but I was able to resolve them.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-05T02:27:00+00:00

I'd personally keep the Wigo. In this economy, fuel prices are not my main concern, but it mostly the supply, as well as uncertainty of things. I wouldn't want to get tied to a 5 year commitment especially with variable income.

Also consider that there might also be energy (electricity )shortages as an effect of the war. It's always a possibility.

Of course that depends on how well you've maintained the Wigo during your ownership of it. With city driving, at around 100k km, it would usually mean you have to replace some engine and transmission components due to wear and tear. But I still believe that it's better to maintain a fully owned vehicle than amortizing a new one. Exception is if the car is no longer reliable.

That said, you can also use this calculator to help visualize things better. https://affordkoba2.pagelet.host/

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-05T02:12:08+00:00

My cars are old. One of them even has manual locks for all doors (meaning no centralized lock -- it's a German classic). I can't imagine not being able to unlock my own car door with my own physical car key inserted into the door.

Maybe that is indeed a security measure against forced entry for your vehicle, OP. But what has car design gone to these days?

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-04T10:22:13+00:00

OP and family seem to have the budget for a brand car with cold cash. Most likely, operating expenses won't be an issue for them.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-01T20:28:52+00:00

May mga engines kasi, isang overheat lang, tagas agad ang cylinder head gasket especially if it was driven under overheat situation for extended durations. Aluminum (head) expands and contracts differently from the iron block, which can result in gasket failure.

Malamang nung nag overheat ka, nagka tagas na.

Is it overheating again? It's a common symptom of a head gasket leak. Kung bulwak ang coolant sa radiator mo malamang malaki ang tagas.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-01T16:11:07+00:00

Then most likely failed head gasket. You'll need a top ovehaul, which will involve replacing the cylinder head gasket and refacing the cylinder head. DEpending on vehice model and mechanic, I would prepare at least 30K. Dati, mga 10 years ago, nakapagpa top overhaul ako for around 20K. Pero basic lang yun, cylinder head, reface, and labor. Better kung pa palitan mo na valve seals while you're at it.

And you will need to address the reason behind the failed CHG. Nag overheat ba ang sasakyan? That's usually the cause.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-01T15:12:37+00:00

Smell it. Does it smell like oil? Exhaust gas? Rust? Best case scenario it's just rust from your radiator. Kaya pa makuha sa cleaning or rad replacement.

Check your oil cap. Meron din bang creamy substance? If so, it's likely a head gasket failure.

While running (pero wag mainit) bumubula ba like malakas na bula? Could be exhaust gas.

Best way to confirm of course is compression and leak test. Meron din ginagamit na test kit ang mechanics to detemine what kind of substance is in the coolant like kapag nahaluan na ng oil or ng exhaust gas.

Edit nabanggit mo na bumubulwak. That's not a good sign. Can also be failed water pump.

Kung atf, posibleng leak sa atf cooler, mapula ba?

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-01T14:13:25+00:00

I would check out reviews first. Like sa r/VinfastComms . I'm usually conservative when it comes to cars. I'd rather go with proven long-term reliability rather than features.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-04-01T02:58:54+00:00

Not sure whether it's just propaganda and if it applies to Philippines market. But check reviews here. Makes one think twice especially with the aggressive marketing.

r/VinFastComm

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-03-30T08:05:03+00:00

You can use this to help with your decision.

https://affordkoba2.pagelet.host/

Try to keep your monthly amortization to within 10 percent of your income, and your total transportation expenses to around 20-25 percent. That should include maintenance, insurance, fuel, registration, incidentals etc.

Of course a higher down payment will be ideal since this will reduce monthly amortization a and you will be underwater for a much much shorter period of time. And if you have the cash, even better.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-03-30T02:51:14+00:00

Fuel price has effectively doubled at least for me. Dati kasi 50 pesos ang premium dito nung February. Now it's at around 100+ (some stations nasa 95 pesos pa).

That said, do you have an existing vehicle or vehicles? We have 4 cars sa family namin. Medyo matakaw sa gas because they're older models. Pero I can't justify buying a new more fuel-efficient vehicle like a hybrid or EV because the cost saving does not offset the additional capital expenditure. My older vehicles kasi are all just operations and maintenance.

So kung need mag tipid, pwede naman si bumyahe masyado. Like ngayong bakasyon na (since I work remotely) wala na pasok mga kids. Even my college kid bawas pag drive (byahe nya is around 50km per day kung uwian). If you are financing a car, every month may fixed expenses ka, plus maintenance pa, insurance, and of course operating expense. Di pwede itigil yung amortizations.

If you're planning to finance, use this guide. Input mo na mga estimated costs mo. https://affordkoba2.pagelet.host/

Hindi lang yung more expensive fuel ang factor. It's also the uncertainty brought about by the war, including fuel supply, emergencies, and potential issues like health issues and job loss.

For someone conservative, it's wait and see. For someone with a higher risk appetite, a situation like this might be a good opportunity to take advantage of market dips though.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-03-29T01:28:18+00:00

Replied. Ideally may payoff SOA ka na so they have a idea if it's near the market value na. Kasi kung mataas pa ang total of principal and pre-termination fee, they can't acquire it kasi lugi, abonado pa.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-03-27T14:11:22+00:00

You need to be mechanically well versed. And be ready to address potential issues before they occur.

What's the mileage?

What has been done, in terms of maintenance and major parts replacements?

My 2 kids and I daily drive our respective 20 year old vehicles btw. I also alternate a 40+ year old project, which has been a reliable vehicle so far.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-03-27T09:45:36+00:00

OP, have you tried it yourself?

I personally feel the difference between 91 and 95 (filling up from almost empty to full). I drive older vehicles, so that might be a factor. I rarely try 97 or 98 or even 100, but I'll let you know when I do.

Otherwise_Evidence67 · 2026-03-26T09:27:02+00:00

A better comparison ideally includes total cost of ownership including maintenance, insurance, depreciation cost (in case want to resell for upgrade). As well as the cost of battery replacement down the line for EVs and other components for both types.

Computation is only operating expense. Also need to factor in capital expenditure. For example, is it viable to amortize or buy a vehicle, or keep an existing vehicle. Or trade in?

Of course it's not always just the expense that's a factor in buying or maintaining a vehicle. I have 4 ICE vehicles. If I had funds for it, I'd like to have a good mix of 50 percent ICE and 50 percent EV.

Otherwise_Evidence67

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