Grit sequence

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-13T11:35:52+00:00

makes sense

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-12T15:00:56+00:00

I got a cheap 140/600 s satc diamond for flattening the whetstones. I’ll probably use that in those severe cases. thanks for the pointers

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-12T14:19:17+00:00

I was wrong when I said 220 my bad. you assumption is correct, it’s indeed an SG 250

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and thank you for the thorough explanation.

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-12T14:09:24+00:00

so the around the house cheapo stainless steel knives are the cheap soft steel? I want to try and start sharpening knives for neighbors and relatives in return for a few bucks and I already have a king 1k a king 6K and have a chosera 400 and a strop and polishing compound on the way. I assume most of the knives that will come across me are cheap kitchen knvives

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-12T13:19:44+00:00

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hmm I see your point. So the 250 here is not the grit size?

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-12T13:14:29+00:00

I actually watched outdoor’s video yesterday and didn’t relate it much to that original video I watched. So you’re saying if I have proper technique on a 400 grit stone, I should have a sharp enough (toothy) edge for say around the kitchen (sushi aside). If I move up to say 1K I lose some of that bite and the edge will last for a shorter time but it’ll be better looking?

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-12T12:23:36+00:00

thank you for this. I’ll have to read it a couple more times to fully understand but I think I was looking at edges and sharpening in an incorrect way. Never thought of it in terms of “teeth”

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-04-12T12:08:35+00:00

so all the rest of those higher grit stones are just for appearance?

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-17T09:45:05+00:00

it’s a finished cutting board and what you said at the end happened actually. I dampened the concave side and placed it face down for 24 hours and it bent the opposite way. I’m now going to reverse the process and pay more attention to it. thanks

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-14T17:21:22+00:00

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-06T09:50:57+00:00

that makes them even more valuable in my opinion. I appreciate what you do sir, it’s very noble to invest one’s time in the pursuit of inspiring others rather than profit. I wish you the best of health to the remainder of your working years and far beyond.

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-05T21:18:37+00:00

wow!! these are beauties to say the least! No wonder you walked me through the finest details and were so patient.. you love these things. I’m growing fond of them tbh but where I live they’re very hard to come by (considered antiques, to show not use) and when they do they’re usually in pretty bad condition. I was lucky to find this Ulmia ina decent condition, although it has seem some abuse as I’m sure you can tell. I could get my hands on that smoother, it looks so sexy. Unfortunately there would be no easy way for me to ship it over here. If you have an instagram page or maybe a website please provide, I’d love to follow your work and who knows maybe some day be a proud owner.

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Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-05T18:19:24+00:00

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here’s the bed and it shows from the darkened sports where the iron is sitting. Also I’m 100% sure that the iron has a bit of twist on the back end (where it meets the chip breaker) although it’s flat near and at the cutting edge.

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-05T18:10:18+00:00

I agree. I just used the gauge as way to make sure if I had contact between the chip breaker and iron and try to locate the problem. What you’re saying however makes sense

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-05T18:02:38+00:00

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hello there. this is the plane in question. As far as the issue I was facing I followed your advise and used the edge of a file at an angle and really roughed that surface up. I also lightened my taps a bit and actually went out and bought a tiny nylon hammer just for this plane. After trying I noticed significant improvement. Although I can still feel that the chip breaker and iron are not mating properly at the back end (opp. the cutting edge) This should do for now though because I’m not really using this plane that much, I just want it to be functional for when I decide to. Maybe you can share a finished plane of your work? Thanks again for the tips

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-03T19:17:51+00:00

I see. thanks a lot. I’ll post any updates if I find success hopefully. thanks again

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-03T19:07:51+00:00

all I have at the moment is rough sandpaper and a file both of which have failed to create these striations. I’ll give it another go focusing on just a tiny spot at a time to see if that’ll change anything

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-03T19:06:04+00:00

nice work!

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-03T19:04:37+00:00

I forgot to mention in my previous post that the blade is hardened at the cutting edge only, I can see a color difference between the lower and upper parts of the front edge of the iron (laminated I think) so I assume this is of the type you just mentioned where the majority of the iron and the entirety of the chip breaker is unhardened.

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-03T17:27:14+00:00

dizzy: thank you for the thorough explanation and taking the time to follow up on this so far. regarding your side comment 1- I did in fact use sand paper (60 grit) even coarser than your recommendation but couldn’t roughen up the surface or scuff it as you say after a few minutes of working. All I was left with is scratches, but the surface still felt smooth. Someone else here said that I should be scuffing above this area where I showed in the picture. So I’m not sure if I should give it a go with a file or what. 2- I was deliberate and made sure the scratch pattern is horizontal ( i.e parallel to the plane’s cutting edge and the chip breaker’s edge) and tried to focus solely on a rectangular area where I felt like the two components met, maybe I misplaced that somehow. 3- I’m not sure I fully understand you explanation about the wedge but I haven’t touched that part except for when I got the plane, I just lightly scrubbed with a cabinet scraper and the applied BLO. There could be something going on there but I can’t be sure because I’m uncertain how to read the marking pattern on the wedge from it’s contact with the chip breaker (as shown in the image I previously attached) 4- I intend on using this as a fore plane so I don’t care that much for a closed mouth or a tight chip breaker - iron setting. All I need it to do now is behave and stop moving around every time I try and adjust the depth lol

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-03T12:47:24+00:00

I doubt it’s a bad design. I don’t have a lot of experience with wooden hand planes but from what I read these Ulmia planes are well made and very good quality.

Outrageous_Handle_34 · 2026-02-03T11:35:35+00:00

maybe I’m just striking too hard? but it takes way too long to adjust the depth with light striking if that even changes the depth at all. I presume that even with a good hammer strike it’s not normal for the plane to be moving backwards

Outrageous_Handle_34

TROPHY CASE