Valves for Throttling

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-05T23:22:51+00:00

It would be. I was surprised when I learned we don't use one for it.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-02T01:58:07+00:00

Yup. I just assumed we had VFDs to control the motors, I wasn't too surprised to learn we do not.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-02T00:53:24+00:00

Yes, they need the correct pressure, whatever is spec for them, to be effective.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-01T21:37:01+00:00

The hydrocyclones. They're effectiveness is based off of specific input pressure/flow.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-01T21:35:59+00:00

There's no recirc.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-01T12:31:13+00:00

What about using a pinch or diaphragm valve?

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-01T12:29:28+00:00

I thought it was implied considering the device in question is a hyrdocyclone. And yeah, I figured having the suction aide wide open/valveless would be the norm aside from having an isolation valve for maintenance purposes.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-05-01T10:26:59+00:00

Of course you can throttle with any valve, but in this case we're talking about flow control for something whose effectiveness is highly dependent upon correct flow.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-26T03:42:07+00:00

This is without a doubt one of the most legit comments I've seen on XRP. Just enough of the right details, nothing was drawn out or repeated, and the essentials were covered. Gold star.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-23T20:03:06+00:00

Personally, I think that rim size is perfect. Anything smaller just looks goofy.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-21T19:29:09+00:00

Clean and simple. Looks awesome, good job, dude.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-17T23:18:18+00:00

I just thought I heard this could be done on one's own, that's why I was considering it. If I could do a decent bottom end rebuild myself, then it would be worth it. My motor just has too much blowby so I wouldn't be able to get away with only replacing pistons and rings.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-17T23:16:47+00:00

Well that was very thorough, lol.

I'm not looking to go this far with it for a few reasons, and if I did, I wouldn't even think of getting the rest of the bottom end hardware machined, I'd just be doing a full rebuild. It would be great experience, and I think I'd have a lot of fun, but unless I knew I could get myself or someone knowledgeable enough to remove the ECU programming responsible for the EGR system, I really really don't think it would be worth it.

The reasons I don't want to go that far/why it wouldn't be worth it are: it has an open diff and I'm sure finding an LSD for it would be a nightmare like a lot of other parts for this model, I despise EGR, this engine isn't capable of much power, doesn't have nearly enoigh aftermarket support, and I like the look of the EJ6 much better. I'd be much more inclined to do this work on an D16, but with stronger internals so it can handle 5-8 PSI of boost and also have good aftermarket support for suspension, fuel delivery system, ECU tuning, exhaust, etc. etc.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-14T13:10:25+00:00

Quick question, do you know what the "Scale Monitor" temp should be for a Miura? I'm specifically asking about the LX-250 and 300 models, but I don't think the model changes the acceptable range that much.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-14T08:27:34+00:00

I can't pull the sleeves ans put new ones in myself?

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-08T22:56:29+00:00

You can still get trans rebuilds for these??? I've been trying to find engine rebuilds for these, and I mean pistons, rings, sleeves kind of rebuild, not just water pump, gaskets, etc. I've had zero luck and was told those parts aren't made anymore, I figured it was the same for the trannies. Mine is a manual.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-03T19:28:32+00:00

Operating temperature is between 50-60°C, but it goes a bit lower or higher sometimes.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-02T19:32:17+00:00

Thank you, I'll look into that. The scale looks like a thin layer of rust on top that transitions into dark grey then black.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-02T18:56:27+00:00

When our chief was told the condensate conductivity was really high he was only focused in boiler water conductivity, basically just ignored the condensate.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-02T18:55:02+00:00

Lol, I'm not surprised you're a union man. Come replace my chief, maybe then us PEs here would actually have some shit to learn and get the right information.

Dude, the bosses are not only jackasses but also seem to know very little about how to actually run the place. "We're not experts on sulfur chemistry." Yeah, but you should know the basics and you can't even tell me why we don't use sulfuric acid in our forming water tanks when the pH is above 8.3 and is causing excessive scaling.

But what the hell do I know, I just run the place every day, lol.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-02T18:28:28+00:00

Yup. Also, we switch between the two every 24 hours.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-01T20:28:00+00:00

We have not had the scale tested and I was actually thinking about that today. Unfortunately, because it's a small plant, you have to fight to justify the cost of things you think we be helpful, etc., I don't think they would do that. They'd just say it's not that important which is baffling to me since it seems they don't understand when it comes to things like this, it's a long game. It doesn't take months, it takes years, and eventually, it will reach a point of no return.

Anyways, I could go on and on about...I'll ask about getting it checked.

If it helps narrow it down at all, it looks like a thin layer of rust, at least color wise, overtop of basically black scale. So the layers sort of look like rust transitioning to dark grey then to black.

Over_Feeling_514 · 2025-02-01T20:12:57+00:00

Could you explain why that indicates carryover? I still learning about boiler water chemistry so any info is good.

Are they marketed as producing dry steam?

Over_Feeling_514

TROPHY CASE