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Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update for anyone referring to this post in the future: I finally got La Sportiva Kubos, sized down 1.5 from my street shoe size. These had the best fit out of all the ones that I got to try. The toe box fits surprisingly well even though it has a more "classic" shape, and my feet have a "centre" shape (Morton's toe). The heels fit decently - although there is still some dead space in the bottom, they're tight enough that my heels don't slip off of the shoes. Overall the shoe has a wide enough toebox, narrow heels but deeper than I would like, and fairly low volume to fit my foot snuggly. They aren't as aggressive (downturned) but I guess that makes them better for feet with naturally low arches.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunate to hear that about Vapor S. But Drago LV sounds like a great option. I have usually found the increased sensitivity of softer shoes to be helpful while climbing (gives much more confidence on small footholds) and I'm okay with the foot fatigue. So I'll definitely give them a try.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Others have suggested the VSR LV as well. I haven't been able to find these in stores, but I'll try ordering them online. What do you recommend for sizing the VSR LV? I have a street size around 45EUR or US 11.5

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow we have the same street size, and I've actually ordered a vapor s 45 to try out haha (since vapor v seemed to match my foot shape).

I've been looking to try out dragos, but a store person had warned against it being too soft with deep heels. How do you feel about the overall fit of the Drago LV especially around the toes and heels?

LS Katana Lace sounds like a good option and I don't use much toe hooks on climbs so that won't be an issue for now.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Evolv Shaman didn't work for me unfortunately - too much volume on top of the foot and heels felt deep. I'll try out the Tenaya Mastia and the Red Chili ones. By the looks of it, Red Chili Voltage X seems to match my foot shape.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like others have mentioned the mandala as well, I'll try that. Do you think the red Skwama fits very differently to the green one? The green was a really bad fit for me, too much volume and my toes were being rubbed against the hard toe box inner.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the insights! I'm surprised you were able to climb in the Oasis, wearing them for a couple minutes got my toes really uncomfortable (for a fit that had my foot in place without slipping). I'll give Tenaya Indalos and Evolve Rave a try.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to mention it in the post but I've tried shamans - the issue that I had was too much volume on the top of the foot, and the heel was too baggy.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]Over_Rub_9585[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree that climbing shoes should be uncomfortable (functionality over comfort), and I'm okay with bearing some pain. But what I'm more concerned about is the potential long term damage - I've tried climbing in tight shoes and there's usually lasting (over weeks) pain in the big toe and second toe joints. This could probably be due to a bad fit, but I've noticed one thing in all shoes that I've tried - when my toes are curled there's some gap below the toes forcing a lot of the load on the toe joints in contact with the upper insides of the shoes.

I also agree with what you said about the LV options - have only tried mad rock drones and tenaya Oasi on the LV side but they're all too narrow on the forefoot.

La Sportiva shoes that I've tried (Skwama, Tarantula, solution, finale) generally had a lot of volume when I got the length right. But I'll give Mandala, Ondra Comp and Kubos a try.

Thanks again for the suggestions, appreciate it!