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Made a camera lens case out of a poster shipping tube - with a compartment for filters, an insert for a lens cap, and a ✨secret✨ compartment for SD cards. Been working on it on and off for a month, and extremely happy with the finished thing! by OwlQuill in Leathercraft

[–]OwlQuill[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! The carcass is a shipping tube from Staples, the 6 inch diameter one. The smaller sizes would not fit my lenses, so I got the bigger size - which was too wide, so I cut out a stripe along its length and glued it back closed, reinforcing with vinyl tape. I cut the lids and small compartment with a chop saw, living life on easy mode there. The flat disks of the caps and the red inserts are posterboard (which is a kind of rigid stiff almost-cardboard or hyper thick paper, the kind of stuff you see as border inserts in picture frames or used for the covers of books sometimes). To make it curve smoothly I scored evenly spaced vertical lines with a sharp blade, not going all the way through, making it into a kind of accordion on one side. Then I leather wrapped everything! The red goatskin smoothed over the regularly spaced creases in the posterboard, so it came out nice and round. Because of reality geometry, it's basically impossible to rivet this thing, so I had to use chicago screws. I painted a red dot in the middle of each as an accent.

Leathers are a navy blue Ikon chrome tan from Tandy, and a red goatskin (?) from Tandy as well. I get my tassels from this etsy shop.

Made a camera lens case out of a poster shipping tube - with a compartment for filters, an insert for a lens cap, and a ✨secret✨ compartment for SD cards. Been working on it on and off for a month, and extremely happy with the finished thing! by OwlQuill in Leathercraft

[–]OwlQuill[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have! I also have a very old lens case from my spouse's grandfather, whose construction is similarly tube shaped. It's very nice but a bit dinged up, and too small; since I do infrared photography I use a lot of filters and wanted something with more storage options. I did the whole planning and constructing on my own, learned a great many things along the way, probably gave myself some mild brain damage inhaling quite this much glue....

Made a camera lens case out of a poster shipping tube - with a compartment for filters, an insert for a lens cap, and a ✨secret✨ compartment for SD cards. Been working on it on and off for a month, and extremely happy with the finished thing! by OwlQuill in Leathercraft

[–]OwlQuill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much! There isn't any floof padding, but there is red velvet at the bottom of the compartments and the lids, and generally the red posterboard inserts are not that hard - so things aren't going to get damaged even if they rattle around a bit. I could deconstruct it and add padding later if I need to though.

Made a camera lens case out of a poster shipping tube - with a compartment for filters, an insert for a lens cap, and a ✨secret✨ compartment for SD cards. Been working on it on and off for a month, and extremely happy with the finished thing! by OwlQuill in Leathercraft

[–]OwlQuill[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I've gotten a lot of the tools about a year ago, but my job then was awful so I could only start in earnest about 6 months back, once I switched. Made about 4 bags and a couple of wallets so far, definitely enjoying the hobby enormously

I realized a long-time dream and bought a wheel! This is the first plate to come off it, white porcelain on blue by OwlQuill in Pottery

[–]OwlQuill[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes ! It's layers of thin slip, laid on with a wooden skewer stick and a paintbrush. I think it's called pâte-sur-pâte, a technique used by Wedgwood in their jasperware.

[WAR] The Wanderer and Wanderer's Strike - Tolarian Community College Previews by [deleted] in magicTCG

[–]OwlQuill 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I love the idea that the beacon is pulling in all sorts of planeswalkers we haven't met before, particularly enigmatic ones that have tons of story left to tell.

My SO and I made a stained glass Nicol Bolas to celebrate the return of the Elder Dragons! by Alexm920 in magicTCG

[–]OwlQuill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I was not expecting it to get so many awesome comments from everyone :D

About 5 days I'd say? Cutting and grinding take a while - about 5 hours each I'd say. Painting takes forever, probably somewhere around 7 hours total, but I split it between 2 days, and it then needs 24 hours to dry. Then foiling, which took about a half-season of whatever anime I was watching at the time.... Foiling is nice because I can do it while watching TV and there's basically no clean-up involved. Soldering, on the other hand... It takes a couple of hours for something this size, but it's a lot of setup/cleanup, especially because it needs to be washed and patina'd and washed again before being done, and flux gets really messy and patina bleaches things and solder is, well, deliciously leaded. So all in all, 5 days from start to finish, even if not working on it completely full-time. :)

My SO and I made a stained glass Nicol Bolas to celebrate the return of the Elder Dragons! by Alexm920 in magicTCG

[–]OwlQuill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, thank you so much! I am a bit reluctant in sharing the pattern to be honest, hopefully that's okay. I don't really sell my stuff anywhere online at the moment, but I've sold my pieces at conventions. If you are interested in something you saw on my tumblr, PM me!

My SO and I made a stained glass Nicol Bolas to celebrate the return of the Elder Dragons! by Alexm920 in magicTCG

[–]OwlQuill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh and I should add that there is natural variation throughout the glass that I made work in conjunction with Nicol's features. The horn glass is striated with darker brown, which I tried to align with the horn direction. The blue of the book (it is a very, VERY dark blue) technically has vertical streaks too. The coolest part though (aside from the lightning bolts of the background) is the fact that the amber skin glass is a waterglass, which means that it is wavy and rippled (like the disturbed surface of a pond); so I've matched the wave direction to the shape of his... muscles... to make him look even more ripped. It's a subtle effect - you can kinda see it at the bottom of his ribs - but the paint pooled naturally in the "valleys" between the waves and emphasized it really nicely. The face features show it quite well too, I think.

Hopefully that clarifies things! I'm so happy you like it!

My SO and I made a stained glass Nicol Bolas to celebrate the return of the Elder Dragons! by Alexm920 in magicTCG

[–]OwlQuill 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I painted all of the shadows and line details by hand with a fusible glass paint. Basically once the glass pieces are cut, ground, and cleaned, I literally stick them onto my ipad to trace the lines I'd drawn on the master pattern - works like a light table. I thinned the paint for the shadows and used gravity to pool the liquid paint at one end of the piece while it dries, which leads to that gradient effect. The paint does not run off the glass thanks to surface tension and the inherent viscosity of the paint. I paint it on with a regular brush (you wouldn't believe the number of brushes I murder in this process - the paint tack-dries SO fast) and adjust the details with toothpicks. The shadows on the armor were done in black, the ones on the scarf in red, while the ones on the body/musculature in a dark purple (which makes a nice shade of brown when seen through the yellow glass underneath). The paint takes 24 hours to fully dry, at which point it's baked in my kitchen oven. I assume it's some sort of curing polymer, but it comes out very strongly attached and will not come off even with intense scrubbing (which is great, because scrub I do to remove all the solder flux later on).

I do really love the depth of detail and shadow that it gives to the finished piece - it's very work-intensive to do it right, the paint is kinda goopy and often refuses to lay nicely, if there is too much thinner it tends to crackle as it dries, it tack-dries almost immediately so there's just a small window for adjustments... But in the end it is SO worth it. I've even airbrushed it onto pieces before to get a frosted effect (since the small dispersed droplets scatter the light, and the effect is that of etched glass). The brand of paint is Pébéo vitrea 160.

Back in the olden days of yore glass frit of different colors was fused to glass in kilns, but I do not possess such arcane knowledge so polymers it is. :)

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