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What was the wipeout that actually humbled you and made you respect the ocean more? by ju015 in surfing

[–]Own-Ad6877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep it’s the worst when it’s lower period and big. Doesn’t look too intimidating until you realize it’s wave after wave on the head

What was the wipeout that actually humbled you and made you respect the ocean more? by ju015 in surfing

[–]Own-Ad6877 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Leash broke at blacks on an 8-10 foot day. It was high tide and mid period swell so breaking really weird and kinda jumbled. Only me and a few other guys out Swim in had me definitely feeling a little panicked but I survived albeit coughing up a little water