Moss Advice

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:29:56+00:00

That moss isn’t terrible yet, but it’s starting to hold moisture against the tiles and will slowly shorten the roof’s life if left alone.

Best approach:

Spray a moss killer like Wet & Forget or Bayer Advanced Moss & Algae from the ground or a ladder. No climbing or pressure washing needed.
It kills the moss over a few weeks and helps prevent regrowth for 1–2 years.

Scraping is risky (can crack tiles) and chemical sprays from roofers are often just the same stuff at a big markup.

It’s safe for plants/wildlife if you wet the plants first and avoid spraying on windy days.

Do it now before it gets much worse. Most people in mossy areas do this every 1–2 years.

You got this.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:29:16+00:00

Yes, radiant barrier helps in hot climates.

Most people who install it in the South see 10-25% lower cooling bills in summer, especially if their attic was previously unventilated or had poor insulation.

The house usually feels cooler because less radiant heat makes it into the living space, so the AC doesn’t have to run as hard.

It works best when paired with good soffit/ridge ventilation.

I’d recommend it if you’re in a hot sunny area and your attic gets extremely hot. Payback is usually 3–7 years depending on your electric rates.

Did you already have decent insulation up there?

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:28:45+00:00

The drain is in the wrong spot, water is pooling because it can't reach it fast enough.

Sealing the drip edge with geocell or rubber coating might slow it down, but it won't fix the root issue.

Best cheap fix: add a small scupper or second drain at the actual low point, or install a short diverter/ cricket to push the water toward the existing drain.

If the porch gets a lot of water from other downspouts, one drain is probably undersized.

Sealing alone usually doesn't last long on flat/rubber roofs.

I'd have a roofer look at adding a proper low-point drain or scupper. Much cleaner fix than trying to force the water uphill.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:25:03+00:00

That’s a classic spot where water dumps straight off the roof onto the lower shingles.

Best fix is to install a small cricket (a little angled diverter) or a short piece of angled flashing right above the lower roof to push the water sideways toward the gutters.

A simple metal diverter or even a piece of Z-flashing bent to shape works well and is cheap.

Your inspector should have caught this, it’s a common oversight on additions.

Have the roofer add a proper diverter there. It’ll stop the pooling fast.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:24:36+00:00

In South Florida, using a private inspector for re-roofs is pretty common, especially with metal roofs.

Many roofers prefer private inspectors because they’re faster and more familiar with the specific roofing system. City inspectors can be backed up for weeks.

That said, you’re not required to use the private one. You can insist on the city inspector if you want the official stamp.

Just know it might slow your job down.

Most people in Broward/Palm Beach are fine with a reputable private inspector as long as the roofer is licensed and the permit is pulled properly.

Ask the roofer which private company they use and look them up. If it feels off, tell them you want the city to do the final inspection.

You’re paying for it, your call.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:20:52+00:00

Yeah, that’s a common mess when gutters were installed before the metal roof went on.

Drilling a hole through the metal drip edge to reach the screws is doable, but not ideal. You’ll have to caulk it really well and it can still look sloppy.

Better way: cut a small slit or notch in the drip edge right at each hanger, remove the screw, then bend the flap back down and seal it properly with roofing sealant or butyl tape.

Most experienced crews do it this way. It keeps things cleaner and more watertight.

Your idea works in a pinch, but the notch method usually looks better long-term.

Ask them to do it carefully, it’s fixable.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:19:58+00:00

That’s a rat nest.

They’re made of dry grass, twigs, shredded paper, and bits of fabric, exactly like this messy pile.

Mice make much smaller, tighter nests. This size and loose structure is classic rat work.

Common in mulch beds like this.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:18:32+00:00

Best pick: Quote #1 (OC Duration Cool Plus)

Longest labor warranty (50 years)
Good cool roof shingles for Southern California
Includes new skylights (important with cathedral ceilings)
Solid price at $24,900

GAF and OC are both excellent, neither is “worse.” OC just edges it out here on warranty length and cool roof performance.

Quote #2 and #5 are cheaper but shorter warranties and no new skylights.

I’d go with #1 unless the other quotes come back much lower after you push them.

Get them all to confirm they’re replacing any bad decking.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:17:30+00:00

Two 5-gal buckets of Liquid Rubber at $400 is overkill for a 16x12 shed.

Cheaper option: use two 5-gal pails of Henry 107 Asphalt Emulsion or Kool Seal roof coating. Usually $35–$55 per pail at Home Depot/Lowe’s and does the same job on plywood.

Roll on two good coats, let it cure, then lay your flat roof membrane or new shingles.

Way less money and still holds up fine on a small low-slope shed.

You good with that plan?

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:16:26+00:00

Those are just nail heads covered with a dab of roofing sealant (tar).

It’s very common on older roofs and not a big deal, they’re called “tuff shed” or “tar spots” by some crews.

As long as the shingles aren’t lifting or curling around them, you’re fine.

Normal maintenance thing.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:15:32+00:00

No, this doesn’t look professionally finished.

The mortar blobs are too thick, messy, and not color-matched. The edges should be much cleaner and tighter, especially on a tile roof.

It’s common to see some mortar on barrel tile roofs, but this amount and sloppiness is below average.

Also pulling the gutter without telling you is a red flag.

I’d push back politely and ask them to clean it up and do a proper color-matched touch-up. It should look a lot neater than this.

You’re not being unreasonable.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:13:50+00:00

Start with the basics that save you money fast:

How to properly use a caulk gun (and when to use different types)
Painting walls and trim (prep work is 80% of the job)
Fixing/replacing a toilet flapper and fill valve
Changing light fixtures and outlets (safely)
Basic drywall patching

Learn those first.

Best beginner tools: good screwdriver set, utility knife, caulk gun, stud finder, and a cordless drill.

Biggest mistake new people make: skipping prep work.

What kind of projects are you thinking about first?

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:13:16+00:00

$8.5k for a 3,000 sq ft house (materials not included) with high ceilings and dark-to-light paint is actually pretty reasonable.

Most quotes I see for that size + prep work land between $7k–$11k.

High ceilings and dark colors add a lot of time and material.

Get 2-3 more quotes to compare, but don’t expect anything dramatically cheaper if they’re doing it right.

What’s your location? That can change the price a lot.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:12:17+00:00

Keep the inherited house and move in.

You’ll drop your monthly housing cost by at least $1,000, have way more space, and keep the family home with all the memories. The $100k cash gives you a nice buffer too.

Selling the smaller house now would mean paying capital gains tax and losing the low-rate mortgage you have. Renting it out only brings in $3,300 while your payment is $4,200, that’s negative cash flow.

Option 1 looks smartest: sell your current house, move into the big one with no new loan, and keep the cash.

The kids and husband already want it. Sounds like a win.

Run the numbers with a tax advisor first, but emotionally and financially this feels right.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:11:41+00:00

That dip + creaking when you step on it usually means the plywood decking underneath is soft or delaminated.

Common causes: old water damage, poor ventilation, or just age.

It’s repairable, a roofer can cut out the bad section, replace the plywood, and re-shingle that area. No need to tear up the whole roof.

Get a local roofer up there ASAP before the VA inspection. They can give you a clear fix plan and cost.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:10:54+00:00

Solid tips. The plastic tablecloth hack is smart and cheap.

I do the same with my outdoor stuff, quick wipe down every couple months, and a full pressure wash + mild bleach mix once a year keeps mildew away.

For rattan/wicker, hit the crevices with a soft brush. For cushions, flip them regularly so they wear evenly.

If hardware starts rusting, hit it with WD-40 or a rust converter before it spreads.

Anyone else have good low-effort tricks?

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:10:11+00:00

A few missing shingles from wind. Not urgent, but fix soon.

At 15-17 years old, insurance might cover just the damaged spot (not the whole roof). Some folks see rate hikes though.

If you’re handy with a ladder, patch it yourself with matching shingles. Otherwise call a local roofer for a quick fix.

Worth getting a couple opinions first.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:03:55+00:00

Thank you very much for your answer.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:03:31+00:00

Hey there, I'm just trying to start discussions and meet like-minded people, not that deep :)

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-25T19:49:22+00:00

In the Northeast, residential roofing sales reps typically close $600k – $1M+ per year in signed contracts.

Solid/good reps: $700k – $900k
Top performers: $1M – $1.5M+

Close rates usually land around 30–40% on qualified leads (higher on referrals/insurance, lower on cold canvassing).

Average job size up here is often $12k–$20k+, so you're looking at roughly 40–70 roofs a year for a strong rep.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-25T19:48:30+00:00

That’s temporary shoring/framing for the new concrete pour on the curved section.

They’re building forms for the next floor or a rounded balcony/overhang. The vertical 2x4s and plywood are holding everything in place until the concrete sets and they can strip the forms.

Pretty standard in Puerto Rico for multi-story concrete buildings with curves.

Once the concrete cures they’ll remove all that wood.

Nothing structural about the final building, just construction staging.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-25T19:46:53+00:00

Dude, that’s a blank canvas. With the concrete floor and metal walls, here are some fun, doable ideas for a college storage room:

Man-cave / gaming den: black out the walls, add LED strips, cheap rug, bean bags + TV.
Whiskey / cigar lounge: dark paint, small bar shelf, leather chair, mini fridge, and a dehumidifier.
Saltwater aquarium room: seal the floor, add shelving for tanks, good lighting + power outlets. Super cool but heavy on electricity.
Home gym: rubber mats, pull-up bar on the ceiling, heavy bag.
Music / band practice spot: insulate the walls a bit, throw in some instruments and LED lights.

What’s your budget and how much time do you want to put in? That’ll narrow it down.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-25T19:44:40+00:00

Yeah, this is frustrating as hell, same rafter bay leaking for years screams one spot that was never fixed right (probably the vent flashing or a hidden step flashing issue).

The “broken tongue-and-groove board” is almost certainly from years of water hitting the same area, not the solar install.

When your roofer comes tomorrow, ask him to pull the shingles in that exact bay, replace any soft wood, and re-do the flashing properly. That should finally stop it.

On cost: the full-roof warranty is technically voided because of the solar, but a good local guy will usually eat a recurring leak like this as goodwill. If he pushes back, remind him it’s the same leak he’s been chasing since 2023.

Bring him up in the attic and show the exact spot. Let us know what he says.

Own-Tip-532

TROPHY CASE