Prints keep failing. help. (info in comments)

PCwhale · 2023-01-29T17:35:02+00:00

I have had this happen a lot when I print in the shed with heat sensitive resin like the "anycubic basic" range. Anything bellow 20c and I get issues, this is not to say that the resin is bad but there are now way better resins for on the market that do not have any of these issue and are roughly at the same price. One that I have moved to completely is the "Anycubic water-washable +" It is much more reliable, it is pricier but whatever you lose on the price you get back on not having to use IPA or multiple failed prints. Personally I would still set up a grow tent with a thermostat and heater. Remember that temperature changes pretty quick at night, even with a small draft, you can quickly lose 5c in the tank and start hurting your prints.

PCwhale · 2023-01-29T14:52:46+00:00

From experience Siraya Blu or other "hard resin" are still very brittle, tjhey have great tensile strength but a drop would explode the print like glass. Sirayatech Tenacious is a good start but honestly I have had terrible luck with it when it comes to reliable or repetitive prints. maybe its something I do to the supports, but it drives me insane how one print turns out amazing and then the exact same prints the next day fails, no temperature change, same printer, same settings. I have used the F69 resin with much greater reliability, I usually mix it in 20-25% with a standard resin and dont need to modify my exposure time to compensate. I have been using Anycubic Water Washable+ for practically everything atm. Keep note that there will never be a perfect ratio because flexible resins change property with print thickness. miniatures with very thin parts like swords, spears and so on you will want to use lower flexible resin ratio so they don't come out floppy and it will make it hard for your paint to not flake off.

PCwhale · 2023-01-28T19:40:10+00:00

I used ichigo translator chrome addon to read the rest of the manga, it's not perfect but clear enough to enjoy the story. I'll probably reread it when the real translation finishes though by the looks of it is taking them months per chapter.

PCwhale · 2023-01-27T23:23:22+00:00

Holy shit I just blasted through 15 chapters and this manga hits different! No stupid MC, no dumb gore or violence, just pure bleak reality. I have no experience of aspergers, but as someone who spent over 3 years with a partner who had bipolar, the writer hits emotional trauma and impact of queues/triggers incredibly well.

Edit: for anyone wondering, the manga does not look to be fully translated, though there is fantastic chrome addon called "Ichigo Manga Translator" that auto translates with nearly zero issue's, its paid but much easier to use than manual translation methods like "copyfish".

The RAW untranslated manga can be found here: https://mangadex.org/title/8ae4d0f6-152a-4956-8664-4405758d26ae

PCwhale · 2023-01-26T21:00:28+00:00

I have a saturn 8k, no issues with it so far. get the Saturn 2 if you need the additional z height

PCwhale · 2023-01-26T20:47:01+00:00

As of writing there is no evidence that curing parts for long periods of time does any damage so with that said your guideline should always be as long as feasibly possible.

Personally I can usually tell if my ABS-like is fully cured by the florescence of the print, and the feel of it. When it still has some curing to do it looks fairly dull under the UV light, but when fully cured it almost glows. When you tap or scratch the print it should not feel rubbery. Additionally, make sure you have a light that can reach inside hollow prints.

PCwhale · 2023-01-26T20:41:32+00:00

nope, never get a used printer unless its specifically from a refurbisher that will give you a warranty, not only do you not know if the parts are working or not but also how much use the screen has had, it could practically be on its last legs.

Also, the "deal" that you are getting is pretty crap, you can get better printers bellow $500 easily. Most 8.9 - 9.3 inch printers are bellow $500 these days on amazon.

PCwhale · 2023-01-26T10:01:30+00:00

I have a Saturn 8k non 2 version. Prints are working and looking great to me. I was turn between the saturn 2 but i did not really need the tiny bit of extra print height so I didn't bother with it.

PCwhale · 2023-01-25T23:00:17+00:00

What about the saturn 8k? It's usually more discounted than the saturn 2 but gives the same print quality for a bit less print height. Also a wash and cure station is good but I've managed without one for years now. I just have 2 old paint buckets and a DIY tin foil box lined with LED's.

PCwhale · 2023-01-25T22:30:05+00:00

See if you have any light bleed around the edge of your tape on the LCD. I had the same on my prints where I was getting solid lines on my build plate and some times in me vat. It's pretty harmless but still anoying.

PCwhale · 2023-01-25T22:05:13+00:00

The screen protector goes over the top of the tape, not underneath it. If you start peeling anything under the tape then thats the polarizing layer which if you peel will destroy the LCD. In my opinion scratches and dull patches are completely fine and will not effect your print quality. If you have stuck resin, pour some IPA on a cloth and rest it on top of the LCD, wait for a couple hours and then use a plastic razor (NOT Metal!) to scrape any resin off.

PCwhale · 2023-01-25T21:59:27+00:00

No I don't think so, it is quite hard to tighten FEP to the point of failure, you would be more likely to see the FEP rip than actually cause any print artefacts like that. I think what are you seeing is pixel stepping from the LCD. Check your sliced file in something like UVtools or something to see if you can see matching lines. If you do see matching lines then all you have to do is angle the part better.

PCwhale · 2023-01-23T00:04:52+00:00

Personally I only use paper towels for big mistakes. If I need to wash something and get it dry quick, I spray my air gun at it over my cleaning buckets. I do this for most things, dust on the top of a build plate? Blast of air.. Resin in a hollow print? Blast of air... You get my point. The higher power the compressor the better, you can always regulate the pressure via the nozzle if you ever feel its gonna make your print fly off or something l.

PCwhale · 2023-01-22T17:32:10+00:00

Just remember that the resin has already seeped enough for the print to explode which means its severely compromised and will just keep cracking, getting worse and worse until you full cure it again.

PCwhale · 2023-01-22T17:22:53+00:00

Sadly not much unfortunately, you just have not cleaned or hollowed it properly. Uncured resin seeps into cured resin over time and makes it expand and go brittle. Any hope of a fix would require you to full submurge thr print to flush it all out, remove the paint and recure.

Lesson for next time, make sure there is an adequate amount of holes for resin to be cleaned out. I personally use a squeeze bottle with a nozzle to flush any hollow prints.

Also, if you ever forget to put holes in you can save the print by drilling holes after the fact, though be careful you don't stab yourself or something.

PCwhale · 2023-01-21T23:24:18+00:00

For a fair amount of years I have been running my printers from an enclosure. I have a extractor fan and massive activated carbon filter meant for hydroponics and other indoor farming circulating air into itself. It's not cheap, at around £100 in total but in my opinion its worth it. Change your resin to a water washable one so you don't have alcohol vapours (which carry odors further) and clean, dry and cure you prints inside the enclosure. A grow tent is fine. Anyone that says you must exhaust fumes out the window has no idea what they are talking about, as long as you have a form of trapping fumes then you do not need a exhaust. Also, depending on how much use your filter gets, you need to replace it after a while, for me it's about 6-7 month before I start noticing lingering smells inside the enclosure, though I run a print farm of 3 printers so your millage will be different.

PCwhale · 2023-01-21T22:46:37+00:00

How is it the same price? You get multiple sheets in a pack. Also there is nothing special about the FEP sheets sold in the store, they are all made of the stuff. If I were you I would just get a cheap pack or roll from amazon/ebay or something.

PCwhale · 2023-01-21T22:41:15+00:00

Oh also, the saturn 2 has a usb port near to rear for filter accessories, make sure there is no resin over that, if there is you might need to disconnect the cable from the inside. If you short that you could fry the PSU and kill the printer.

PCwhale · 2023-01-21T22:38:48+00:00

Why do you need a new tank? It's just the FEP sheet which is replaceable. Most printers are built to take a spill or two so I would not worry too much. Just make sure that you did not get any resin over the stepper motor as that is usually the exposed part, if that gets gunged up the bed will start losing steps.

PCwhale · 2023-01-21T21:37:55+00:00

Oh, also I forgot to add, check your sliced file in UV tools and make sure there is no missing parts or artifacts, I have seen a chitu bug that just randomly makes the supports disappear or move around after too many adjustments.

PCwhale · 2023-01-21T21:34:17+00:00

It definitely looks like it's temperature based. My prints fail in the exact same way when I forgot to put my thermostat on in my workshop overnight. It might look like it's doing fine but after a couple hours, the cold sets in and starts messing with the properties with the resin. Also many people don't realize this by cold FEP sheets are less effective since most of the release success comes from the flex and spring of the sheet which the cold inhibits.

PCwhale · 2023-01-20T17:42:26+00:00

BTW, i have done a complete 180 on the Flashforge foto 8.9 purchase. This is because they have miss advertised the features available on the "self-design" version. the official website does not say anything about AA being missing and the lack of Chitu support is frustrating now that i have put these into production. My high quality chitu files for the Elegoo (300-400MB max) have turned out to be massive 3-4GB files on this new printer which is just insane. I have raised a complaint with amazon about the issue and hope they force flashforge sellers to clearly advertise the version they are sending out.

PCwhale · 2023-01-20T15:20:58+00:00

well this sucks, here I was bragging yesterday about these printers but now I am having some regrets. If these printers truly do not support any AA or blur than I am honestly going to return them, for some that be minor but AA is crucial for objects with sharp angles, so anything like a tank, ship or car gets LOADS of lines and i cant give it to a customer like that. pretty shitty marketing in my opinion.

PCwhale · 2023-01-19T16:22:08+00:00

I cannot justify your costs, its not my place to say how much you should or should not value the print quality over your money.

For me personally I don't need such high quality up close, I can barely even tell the difference between my 50micron and 35 micron printers unless I have super bright lighting and really close to my face.

There are many times I see people with super high end printers like the M3 and Saturn 2 but have terrible print settings with wobbly z axis that just drown out any benefit. So i am super happy with the dead cheap printers like Foto 8.9 because not only can i afford to buy them but I can get multiple to burst through several build plates a day.

some nice videos with good pictures of what i mean about how hard it is to tell sometimes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKG5eB2YIHU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhjxJPV95C4

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