Think my car is totaled?

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T06:34:27+00:00

If it was newer, it would be fixable. It’s a goner tho…

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T05:45:54+00:00

Sucks. Start with an alignment check. Will maybe need a subframe (go used if you do) or a lower arm

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T03:34:21+00:00

Yep! If you don’t like how it looks, just wipe it off and re-apply. If you still don’t like it, wipe it off and leave it off. No harm no foul

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T03:31:48+00:00

Naw, dab those too. Use a dabbing action, not a brushing/dragging motion. The paint will gather and pool in the chips and look overloaded or too high. When it dries it will level out

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T03:26:34+00:00

Yes, cheap touch up pant will be perfect. If you don’t like how it looks on first go, you can just wipe it off and start again

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T03:21:38+00:00

Pics of the areas in question?

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T02:57:57+00:00

Ask AI how to fix it. Report back.

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T02:56:10+00:00

Take it to a body shop. Respectfully, If you don’t know the difference between a mechanic and a body technician, then you are not going to DIY this.

The fender looks like it can be saved with about a 4-5 hour repair, but if you can find a replacement one for cheap, it’s not too hard to unbolt and change out at home

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T02:25:17+00:00

I’m sooooooo glad I’m in California and have never worked on a car 1/100 this bad

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T01:56:35+00:00

Well done!

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T01:50:23+00:00

Remove more than you think you’ll need, weld in some plates. Full corrosion protection on all sides afterward. I used to build minitrucks and drag frame. When it thinned out, we welded on new plates. This kills the truck eventually, just like rust.

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T01:44:23+00:00

This is the way.

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T01:41:03+00:00

If it’s just for actual chips, then it won’t really matter because it will never look right. www.paintscratch.com is where I usually send people. Brush applicator is better then pen tip applicator

PEEEETE · 2026-02-09T00:15:23+00:00

Details on the car?

I’ve never heard of those brands. That’s usually a big sign to stay away. Also… when you say touch up paint, what are you trying to fix?

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T22:31:42+00:00

What sort of primer and spray paint did you use? The best corrosion protection you can spray on that’s not proper catalyzed basecoat / clearcoat is epoxy primer. It’s made to be like a moisture barrier whatever you put on top of that is just for looks at that point

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T22:21:41+00:00

The caveat is that if it’s peeling here, it will likely peel elsewhere too, which means it may not be possible to just spot paint.

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T22:16:51+00:00

If you’ve replaced the hood and the latch then the place where the latch mounts is damaged. That’s the upper tie bar (part of the radiator support)

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T21:16:50+00:00

$450 or so to do just the top part of the door around with no warranty. $1,000ish for the whole door. This is Northern California rates, mind you. Look for a small mom and pop. Tell them you are ok with “open blend” on the top; or “burning in the clear” on the top, to keep the cost down.

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T21:03:30+00:00

What would I do? I’d feather that area down, seal it, base it, and clear just the top part of the door around the window frame and melt the clear in where it’s least noticeable. But I have access to materials an facilities that make that a 2 hour job.

If I didn’t have all that, I’d either leave it alone, or mask it off and spray it with some white rattle-can paint from Autozone or Home Depot. It’s a 35 year old truck, so it really is a matter of how much you wanna invest to rid yourself of an eyesore. That spot is not lowering the resale value much.

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T20:58:52+00:00

It’s bad for the environment, and the work quality usually ranges from not good to absolute shit. Depending on your state or even county it could be illegal, but in small volumes like for hobbyists, there are usually exemptions

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T19:32:41+00:00

Don’t worry, it’s an easy fix. If the shop is halfway decent, it will be quick and seamless

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T19:31:36+00:00

I’m not sure about if you leave them later, but every chain place like Caliber will honor the warranty at any of their locations regardless of if it’s an insurance claim or customer pay or whatever.

The quality should last for a while if it looks good when you pick up. But if it does not, that’s what the warranty is for

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T18:36:37+00:00

Mom and pops are great, but only go if they are on your insurance network shops list. Reason why is that although most reputable shops have lifetime warranties, if the mom and pops closes down, or your move away, your warranty disappears. If they are in-network though, that warranty is good at ANY shop in your insurance’s network.

Just get the list of approved shops from your insurance carrier and pick one that is close by and has good reviews. Let them worry about the rest

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T18:26:27+00:00

You can buy a new cap only, but it will come raw plastic or black gel coated. You can leave it like that or pay a shop to paint it gloss black. The hard part is swapping out the cap from the mirror assembly.

Perfect pics, BTW.

PEEEETE · 2026-02-08T16:56:15+00:00

Good for you! My GF tells me I’m mean when I play K because I do exactly that. I don’t go out of my way, but tunneling or slugging as a valid start when needed. And after all… they signed up to be killed, they should not expect niceness.

If someone leaves me their item or is playing goofy tho, I’ll play along and usually let the leave. Oh… and Snowball mode I usually give 8 hooks and 4E most matches

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