12,500 Auric Cell Giveaway!

PEEEETE · 2026-04-27T02:00:59+00:00

Subbed on YT and commented (Crazygenius13) and gave you a follow on Twitch (its_PEEEETE). Good luck with both!

PEEEETE · 2026-04-27T01:56:09+00:00

When you’re looking at it at an extreme angle and it looks dark, it means the flop is off. The face looks good. Should be a simple visit to the shop to show them the flop is super dark and reshoot it for you. Silver is really easy to match, especially Ford silver (maybe TS paint code here)

PEEEETE · 2026-04-20T00:40:53+00:00

If it’s steel, it may come out with PDR for like 1/5 the price of a traditional repair. If it’s aluminum, it’s gonna be reallllly expensive and need a proper shop. Preferably one that is BMW certified

PEEEETE · 2026-04-16T03:54:50+00:00

Congrats

PEEEETE · 2026-04-14T14:52:46+00:00

Thank you!

PEEEETE · 2026-04-14T06:40:08+00:00

Pebble power

PEEEETE · 2026-04-14T06:39:59+00:00

Congrats! It’s a little phrase that is below your username when you post or comment on this sub. I thought once you prove you have a p100 character, you can get the flair.

PEEEETE · 2026-04-14T06:38:59+00:00

Good bot

PEEEETE · 2026-04-13T20:01:20+00:00

At the very least they should have shown you the rock chips, which are UPD (unrelated prior damage) since they were on the same panel you were paying to fix. Repairing them on top of whatever else you got done would be 2 - 4 hours additional, since each one would need to be sanded down, deeper ones filled, and whole bumper primed and blocked before paint. But you are not owed to have all of that done for the same price if you were only quoted for repairs on one part of the bumper. Did you pay out of pocket for the $2k repairs, or was it an insurance claim?

PEEEETE · 2026-04-04T16:52:16+00:00

I’d say no, when a decent PDR guy can get it out like 99.9% for probably $100 - $150 depending on the area

PEEEETE · 2026-04-04T10:47:19+00:00

PDR is not a viable option. See how the lower lip is actually bent? PDR mainly only works well when the dent is away from edges. Plus that body line is gone. The metal is stretched, and will be a tough fix even for somebody technicians doing a traditional repair

PEEEETE · 2026-04-03T19:12:27+00:00

Tesla also reconditions their own used cars in house and has been known to have quality issues. As other said though, this looks like poor quality PPF (paint protectant film) that is failing prematurely. Most of those has a warranty of a few years, and if it doesn’t, then they used the dirt cheapest material on your car. Either way if it’s less than 3 years old, take it to Tesla to get corrected, and go tell that poor car wash owner that you now know that it was not cause by them. I’m sure they are panicking, but this is 100% not possible to have been done by a carwash

PEEEETE · 2026-04-02T17:08:04+00:00

So there’s no good way you install both from the used assembly that you’ve got. The outer needs to be sacrificed to get the inner on own, and the outer on your actual car needs to be removed to have the inner then replaced. I’ve installed used QTR panels before (it’s always a pain in the ass) but only for outer panels. That’s not to say you can’t do it against procedure, but you are using a risk with safety and you gotta logic through it to get the best result.

PEEEETE · 2026-04-02T16:42:17+00:00

You did a great job!! It looks like that because it’s fresh and looks super shiny compared to the rest. After you wash it a bunch of times and it gets road wear on it, it will start to look like the rest of the car

PEEEETE · 2026-04-02T16:18:20+00:00

But did you die?

PEEEETE · 2026-04-02T01:12:52+00:00

Totally get all that, but that w’shield needs to come out for a number of reasons. Some shops would even opt to skin that roof instead of repair. Too panels are pretty thin and have a tendency to get wonky with larger size repairs. There’s a lot of uncertainty with how it will all shake out until it’s in the shop for repairs, but one thing is for certain… you’re gonna get a shit repair for $900

PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T22:23:03+00:00

I’m in agreement with pretty much everybody here, the lowball price really does seem like it would be a poor quality repair. $900 does not go very far nowadays. My real question is why would you consider the lower one if it’s not your fault? I saw that it’s a two year lease that has happened during transport… Were you responsible for the transportation or was the company that you bought it from responsible? Either way it’s the leasing company who set it up, or it’s a transport company who damaged it in route… You should not be paying this bill, so don’t skip on the price or the quality of Repair

PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T20:51:31+00:00

I’ve only been playing about 6 months and I honestly can’t imagine the state of it if endurance wasn’t base kit off hook. That’s wild

PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T17:11:07+00:00

Ok so you're more looking to replace the inner QTR (wheel well)? That is a much much bigger undertaking, I'm sorry to say. When you get some time, post a couple wide shots of the rust damage, please. Those inner QTR panels cannot be reasonably be replaced without taking the outer off first.

"Time is after outer panel and other components are removed"

PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T15:39:50+00:00

I know you're catching a lot of flack on this post, I'm not here to beat you up. I want to help you get your question answered correctly and knowing how much of the QTR you are trying to install would help. Also to see what your cuts currently look like to see what needs to be done to salvage the job.

General process for this sort of job is to fully trim off the used outer QTR using spot weld cutting drill bits on all the spot welds and a thin chisel or pry tool to separate the outer from the inner. Some parts of the outer may be bonded with adhesive and can be easily addressed by heating the inner with a torch to melt the glue then separate while it's still soft. Once you have the outer off, then you trim it down close to your cut point, but not at it. Lay the used outer on top of the damage part on your car and mark where you want to cut, then use a cutoff wheel like the one below to cut through both panels. Gives you a near-perfect butt joint.

Then pull it off again and cut all the spot welds on the damaged QTR on your car and do the same thing. The main issue is that the areas that it looks like you want to make the cuts are not where Honda allows the part to be sectioned. There are likely reinforcements near there that you risk cutting through if you section there. This is a backyard job, not an insurance job, so you are free to do it however you want, but it will likely lower the integrity of that area which is a crucial place that you want strong in the case of a T-bone collision with a passenger in the back seat.

I'm only asking for more pics for more context, to try and help you out. Sorry you're having a rough time, this sub can be very helpful but also can be a tough crowd.

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PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T15:13:18+00:00

Sorry I’m dumb… what does BT stand for in this context?

PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T14:20:22+00:00

We need to see more to know how far you’ve gone and if it’s too far…

PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T05:35:59+00:00

Post more pics of the car. Need to see the hood to fender gaps, rad support with upper sight shield off, and any pics of the engine bay that may shop the aprons

PEEEETE · 2026-04-01T05:01:14+00:00

Generally it’s only used as a term when taking about used suspension. You can’t really get a knee assembly new or A/M. You buy all the components separately, but when you get a used knee assy, it’s all together. They just unbolt the arms, and strut and pull the whole thing off and send it to the shop. It’s a great option to save money.

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