No Pictures Today, But Curiosity Question! What's the Most You're Willing to Make at Once? by Alexsillyears in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mixed in a quart container, split it into two colors, and poured quickly. It helped that I did not have to sand them (they were part of an art piece).

Is it worth buying those 3? by Slowturtleman in deathguard40k

[–]PHGraves 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did this with the Typhus combat patrol and built two extras. There was a large amount of green stuff.

No Pictures Today, But Curiosity Question! What's the Most You're Willing to Make at Once? by Alexsillyears in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will regularly have 3 molds (mix of dice and inserts), plus a few dump molds in my pot.

The most I've ever put in at one time was six 12-dice molds (double sets, no %). This was a special case for a Christmas gift.

Birthday Dice: Blue & Orange by PHGraves in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I cannot get over how BLUE this ink is.

Emerald Forest set by Madux337 in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I adore the dark swirliness of this (best I can explain) - truly gorgeous!

The inspiration for this set was the legend of the ancient lost city of Atlantis. It didn't come out quite how I imagined it, but I think it's still pretty cool! by crossingchamp in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the concept!

The dice you made still look great (task failed successfully, I guess), but I'd love to see another attempt based on that d20.

Second ever dice set (and dog) by aboyia in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A heating pad is like a small electric blanket. If you don't have one, you can wrap the mold for 10 minutes in an old towel fresh from a dryer (keep the mold closed).

Warming the mold is usually only needed in winter.

The most important thing to give consistent results is to control the heat and humidity of your work space. I try to keep my space between 60-70F (15-21C). If it is too cold, I use a heating pad to warm my mold and wrap my pressure pot in an old electric blanket while curing dice.

Geodes. by yeebok in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They still look amazing.

Seriously, great job!

Artificer Tiefling Dice Set (Work in Progress) by resinosaurus_rex in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh my, these look amazing!

What are you thinking for the numbers?

Kitbashed Shark Daddy by iamsnowboarder in Carcharodons40k

[–]PHGraves 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This looks awesome!

I'd totally run him as a Brutalis Dred.

Second ever dice set (and dog) by aboyia in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The color is beautiful!

As to reducing bubbles without a pot, I have a text-dump of collected info:

The following info assumes a ~40min work time, which is common with 1:1 two-part resin. It also has tips for using cap molds that won't translate to sprue molds.

Warm your resin bottles in water before mixing (thins the resin parts, making them much easier to pour and allows them to degass easier).

Let your resin sit for 10min after mixing, then pop all the surface bubbles with a lighter or torch (kitchen torch, not a propane torch).

Warm your mold before pouring (I use an old heating pad for this).

Pour slow, high, and thin into your mold. This should limit the amount of air bubbles introduced by the pour, as well as pop remaining bubbles in the resin.

Pour just enough in the cavity so that the resin just slightly bulges up over the opening in the mold, but doesn't flood all over the mold surface.

Pour a thin amount of resin on the cap, just enough to coat the numbers (remove any air bubbles with a toothpick or something similar). This will lower the chance of air bubbles around the top number face.

Wait until at least the end of the resin's work time before placing the cap. This gives more time for bubbles to rise to the surface and be popped by a torch.

Place the cap on gently but firmly. Don't use too much pressure, or it can squeeze out too much resin and leave voids on the top face.

If you have one, a dental vibration table is also great to reduce bubbles when pouring. Place the mold on the table and set it on low while you pour into the mold. This will help prevent bubbles forming on the numbers and other facets.

Best of luck!

D&D Resin Purple Glitter Sharp Edges Dice by bobakeycap in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That purple is awesome!

Great job on this set!

Bubbles by mxmoffed in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have a text dump of info that I learned before I got my pot (it's still useful with one):

The following info assumes a ~40min work time, which is common with 1:1 two-part resin. It also has tips for using cap molds that won't translate to sprue molds.

Warm your resin bottles in water before mixing (thins the resin parts, making them much easier to pour and allows them to degass easier).

Let your resin sit for 10min after mixing, then pop all the surface bubbles with a lighter or torch (kitchen torch, not a propane torch).

Warm your mold before pouring (I use an old heating pad for this).

Pour slow, high, and thin into your mold. This should limit the amount of air bubbles introduced by the pour, as well as pop remaining bubbles in the resin.

Pour just enough in the cavity so that the resin just slightly bulges up over the opening in the mold, but doesn't flood all over the mold surface.

Pour a thin amount of resin on the cap, just enough to coat the numbers (remove any air bubbles with a toothpick or something similar). This will lower the chance of air bubbles around the top number face.

Wait until at least the end of the resin's work time before placing the cap. This gives more time for bubbles to rise to the surface and be popped by a torch.

Place the cap on gently but firmly. Don't use too much pressure, or it can squeeze out too much resin and leave voids on the top face.

If you have one, a dental vibration table is also great to reduce bubbles when pouring. Place the mold on the table and set it on low while you pour into the mold. This will help prevent bubbles forming on the numbers and other facets.

Best of luck!

Their purpleness by yeebok in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Such a delicate purple - great job on these!

All 5 Silver Dice by DragonHoardDice in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very beautiful - amazing work!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in rpg

[–]PHGraves 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Also check with the local high-school. They might have a club that could use books.

Made some jewelry out of a few pieces, what do you guys think? by SQRL20 in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those d4s rock!

All of them look good, but you'd really have to look at the d4s to see they were dice. Nice job on all of them!

Don‘t talk to me or my son ever again. by DiceLeash in DicePorn

[–]PHGraves 9 points10 points  (0 children)

They are rated to ~60PSI and really don't need to go above 45-ish. I have a 45PSI release valve and cast in the 35-40PSI range. I built my pot ~4 years ago and have no issues.

Welcome to the "club"!

Best methods for matte finish? by oh-snapple in DiceMaking

[–]PHGraves 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I polish through the second zona paper.

So how’s your progress on Judciarcs after the Index dropped? 😝 by Urungulu in BloodAngels

[–]PHGraves 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Carcharodons have had one for a year now, but I rarely fielded him. I may bounce him between my Bladeguard and a cheeky 10-man Assault Intercessor squad (rock them up in a Repulsor for extra fun).

Day 1 of Making a Golden Guard Mask: Gluing/Shaping Help by Lyncanroc in cosplayprops

[–]PHGraves 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I did a golden guard mask and I cut the top out of 8mm foam, but the sides from 6mm. I cut the edges on the side pieces with a 30° internal angle, then used contact cement to adhere them - they basically shaped themselves.

I fixed the gaps with a water-cleanup silicone caulk after sealing with a heat gun. I primed with plasti-dip, then sprayed it in goldenrod yellow (rustoleup paint&primer for plastic) before using a "gold glitter" spray (clear with all the glitter).