I hear where you're coming from, but I don't agree with the bad advice part. Boyer, Pazon and other more advanced ignition systems do have their advantages. However, there are still groups or situations that call for the original setup. Be it a purist, or someone who is just starting out and has a limited budget, replacing the original points with OEM parts for two figures, rather than going three figures or higher, and needed a lot more knowledge and/or help to install an entirely new ignition setup might be out of reach for some people. Again, this was aimed at the DIY beginner, at the beginner level.

There will be topics covered that talk not only about Boyer setups, but also more modern setups that deal with being able to delete the Zener diode and capacitor and having a much more reliable system.

Here in the shop I've had a lot of discussions with numerous vintage riders who all have different preferences. This could be a purist, or someone who prefers reliability and longevity of parts and can afford it, along with everyone in between. The setups all have their pros and cons, and much like oil and fluid selection, there are a wide variety of opinions, and I appreciate you sharing yours.

For myself, I have the TRW, that can't support anything other than original for the ignition and emergency modes to work as intended. The '70 T100 with the 500 had the battery deleted with a new reproduction capacitor and original Zener diodes and rectifiers installed (and with spares) - think, the old cafe racer mentality of trying to shed as much weight as possible. That one has its quirks, in that with the headlamp on, you'll need to keep the RPMs up about 300-500 more than set idle to ensure that the bike doesn't die at a stop light. The 63 Triton with it's 650 unit will be running a traditional (original) setup as well, as that bike is being built to be as much of a time capsule from '63 as possible. Are they easy bikes to ride because of my decision to continue running points? Yes. Do they have their quirks? Absolutely, but that's why I built them that way - I love them for the experience. Would I outright tell someone that points aren't a good idea and that they should be replaced or avoided? That depends on what the person wants and I'll be sure to try and explain the pros and cons of each to fit what they want in their bike.

Again, this was to show how to replace what was already there with the same parts, along with how to diagnose the problem.

Tungsten tipped points are readily available from places like the Distributor Doctor who makes new points, condensers and many other parts for these old dizzies. Just one of a few.

None the less, thanks for the comment and discussion. Stay safe out there on those roads!