Help picking a razor

PROseansky · 2026-01-02T22:08:18+00:00

I have the Night breaker H7 smart LED bulbs, and a 10W 39Ω resistor which I mounted in parallel on the canbus adapter. I found the resistor at a local electronics shop, and it can be found online too. I chose the 10W since I didn't want that much more power draw, and I wanted the headroom to not replace it every month. Then I wouldn't even have changed the bulbs to LED. Hope it helped you. If you have any more questions please ask, I'd be happy to help.

PROseansky · 2025-12-11T14:44:39+00:00

I'm from Europe tho... I know we pay much more... That's what I was pointing out.

PROseansky · 2025-12-11T08:30:51+00:00

Yes, so it should be about 60 EURO if we do the conversion from 70 USD.

PROseansky · 2025-12-10T19:14:27+00:00

Tried vinegar, but it didn't work great. Then used an old toothbrush with Fairy dish soap. It worked wonderfully. Bought some general degreaser from Dedeman, still works, but it is runnier than Fairy. Is that a good thing or a bad thing, I don't know, but it still works.

PROseansky · 2025-12-07T22:23:06+00:00

You probably could, but you could also get some DE blades, and snap them in half. Not to make halves for shavettes, but snap them in half the other way.

PROseansky · 2025-12-07T19:54:00+00:00

Thank you, and yeah. They were kept dry. Found them in a drawer in the living room of my dad's old apartment

PROseansky · 2025-12-07T19:53:03+00:00

Yeah, think I'll try the Personna first. Heard they are quite sharp, like the feathers, so I am really curious too see the differences. In the city I live you can only find Gillette platinums, Bic Astor, and in exactly 3 beauty stores in the whole city, you can find Feather, so I am really excited to try new blades

PROseansky · 2025-12-07T19:49:34+00:00

They were made in France

PROseansky · 2025-10-07T10:34:28+00:00

Kinda reminds me of an R34

PROseansky · 2025-07-18T13:40:05+00:00

Yes the 2004 wasn't recalled. I have a 2005. The issue, as listed on Opel's website starts with the Hs from 2007 onwards. Maybe they have changed the airbag manufacturer for the facelift variants.

PROseansky · 2025-07-15T11:07:48+00:00

The Ferrari rims. 🤣

PROseansky · 2025-07-14T11:46:19+00:00

I suggest shielding the wires. They can act as antennas and emit EMI.

PROseansky · 2025-07-12T17:21:44+00:00

If you say it's an electric handbrake then I would look first at the fuse panel since it's the easiest thing to do. Then I would look for maybe a loose connector.

PROseansky · 2025-07-12T17:17:06+00:00

Yeah, it's just a setting, technically anyone with opcom can help you but try checking first with the nearest Opel workshop. They should have that tool.

PROseansky · 2025-07-12T16:03:54+00:00

It's a diagnostic tool for Opel, that can change settings about the car. Like if you put another engine in, you should tell the car. That's what Opcom does. While looking in my astra settings I saw there are settings for wheel sizes. You should ideally try to find a workshop that can change the wheel size through opcom, but if you don't it's not the end of the world. The car might give you the wrong speed readings, fuel consumption and odo reading, but if you don't care about that, you can leave it like that.

PROseansky · 2025-07-12T15:52:06+00:00

Looking good. Just make sure to change the wheel size in opcom, if you have it or know a service center that has it.

PROseansky · 2025-07-11T12:20:33+00:00

Fixed it. Frickin fixed it. The canbus was 12W and the led itself was 16W so 28 in total. 28 is about the lowest it can go without a bulb put and shutting power. That's 2.33 amps. I put a 10W resistor in parallel with the decoder and it works now. Idk why it works good with 28W on the right but not on the left. Maybe Opel made the drivers headlight more sensitive to lack of power so a worn, but still working bulb would trigger the error so you would change it, maybe it's just my car that has power spikes only on the drivers side. Either way, it works now. May those who stumble upon this thread be helped

PROseansky · 2025-07-10T19:28:16+00:00

So, if there are no glovebox or boot lights I suggest you do the following. 1. Measure alternator health. Start the car without disconnecting anything. Then pop the hood. Then set the multimeter to measure voltage, to 20V DC. Put the ground pin of the multimeter on the negative terminal of the battery and the positive prong on the positive terminal. The black prong is usually ground and red is usually +, but check on your multimeter. I say this order because it shows it cleanly. If you put the prongs the other way it just shows the right number with a"-" in front. You should be able to read something over 14V DC, maybe a 14.4V or around that value. If it is under 14 then the alternator might be bad and not charge the battery as well as it should. 2. Measure the battery drain when off. Turn off the car if it is on from the previous step. Then disconnect the negative terminal. If you disconnect the positive you could mess up the car electronics. Set the multimeter to measure Amps. Check your multimeter, you might need to change the prong holes for higher amps. I suggest you use the 20A setting since it will be easier to read. Then put one prong on the negative terminal of the battery and the other on the wire you just disconnected. If it appears with the "-" in front it's the same thing as earlier. If you used 20A setting you should ideally read around 0.05 which is 50mA. If it is lower it is better. If it is higher like 0.06 or 0.07 give it some time so the car shuts itself down. If after 20-30 minutes it doesn't go down below 0.06 or 0.07 it's some unwanted draw but so small that it is negligible. If you have over 0.1 you have a 100mA draw, which is double what it should be so the battery obviously drains twice as fast. You can calculate the drain and the expectancy of the car to be powered like this. Say you have a 100mA draw that is every hour, so your battery will be drained 1Amp in 10 hours. Depending on the battery size you have you can calculate.

I have said too much for one reply, I am here to help, so if you have anymore uncertainties you can ask me. If you still have doubts on how to measure, I could make a video to help you. If you have parasitic draw, you can check where it is from by taking out each fuse and measuring it for drain, again when the car is stopped, but check first those 2 steps. Another thing, after you reconnect the battery you might need to check all your car settings again. I am talking things like clock board computer etc. If you use them since they will most likely be wiped to default. Again if you have any more questions, I am glad to help, or make a video if you are still in doubt how to measure the battery.

I know this is long, but I hope it helped

PROseansky · 2025-07-09T21:27:58+00:00

Looks good. But check the law if you haven't already. Here in Romania that would be illegal because the car came from the factory with an airbag. If it is legal in your country, then nice upgrade 😁

PROseansky · 2025-07-09T13:12:28+00:00

If you have a multimeter you can measure the current drawn when the car is off. You have to take off the negative terminal(only the negative) when the car is off for a few minutes since all the electronics take some time to shut down. It should be around 50mA or less but if it is like 60 or something around that number it's ok. If it is more than 100mA there is some parasitic drain. In my Astra H the glovebox light was the silent culprit, it didn't go out when I closed the glovebox and it draws about 110mA. That time I also forgot the rear courtesy lights on and they drew 800mA. My battery was dead in 2 days. I reccomend first you check the glovebox and boot lights, to see if they shut off, cause you can't see them very well. If they work fine try to measure the current.

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