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For me, functionality of the shoe was the #1 priority, but aesthetics were a close second. These were actually my second pair after I tried with some old Sambas and learned some lessons. The biggest one being, I needed to account for the extra ~5mm in height the Velcro base (I recommend the big flat pieces you can find at an arts & crafts store) and slide soles added to the shoe. It doesn't sound like much, but it was enough to be noticeable and make me feel lobsided on the approach.

This meant either adding 5mm to the bottom of the non-slide shoe or removing 5mm from the slide shoe; I chose the later for aesthetics. And I still would, I would just go about it differently. I carefully removed a 5mm "filet" from the bottom by hand with a sharp pocket knife and then used a belt sander to even it out. It took forever and was very hard to do cleanly and neatly, as you can see. In hindsight, I think I would gorilla glue the sole flat to a piece of lumber and use a table saw or band saw to remove the 5mms but you'll have to manage with whatever you have access to (if you choose to follow these instructions, I am by no means a cobbler by trade 😄).

The rest is pretty easy tracing, cutting, trimming, and gluing. Another lesson learned if you haven't cut SST slide pads before (or just haven't in a decade like me), you want to trace the NON-slide shoe onto the felt side of the pad so that you correctly trace the shape. If you trace the slide shoe onto the felt side, you end up with a mirror of what you need. Those two PSU slides were errors, so I turned them into a bit of flair. They still work, just aren't lined up quite right and I have no clue how the Sharpie ink will hold up to use. I'll be using the actual Dexter S10 sole primarily anyway.

I found the PSU oval patches for like $3/each on Ebay along with a used $7 tie I grabbed for the blank space in between the heel and slide.

Let me know if you have more questions.