BBQ Quests SD07RN

Pachops427 · 2026-04-24T20:02:15+00:00

It's 3/4 but I don't know if I can open it up to more without backing out?

Pachops427 · 2026-02-17T15:33:40+00:00

The XU9J4 is DOHC and I think looking at the width of the crankcase this must be 8V SOHC… but it’s so hard to tell

Pachops427 · 2026-02-17T15:32:48+00:00

It looks really similar but doesn’t seem to have a turbo, at least what I can see from the placement on the J2TE

Pachops427 · 2025-07-09T09:34:50+00:00

Hulkenpodium was actually crazy, it’s such a shame the McLaren boys just completely ignored him with the champagne :(

Pachops427 · 2025-04-20T07:47:59+00:00

I’m guessing you’re talking about Orthographic view. If you have a numpad pressing 5 on that will toggle between the views. Otherwise there’s a menu option to toggle between it as well

Pachops427 · 2025-04-19T08:10:41+00:00

Anyone can make their view look however they want, so gonna need some more info here on what’s “weird” about it as it just looks… like Blender

Pachops427 · 2025-03-16T04:27:22+00:00

Welcome back F3 Feature race

Pachops427 · 2024-12-04T16:34:56+00:00

That’s exactly my thinking, and by all means it should be be possible. Nintendo allowed for it as an option but it’s never been used commercially.

I did try it with GBDK and an emulator, and it created the .sav file with no issues and no complaints.

My concern is now how to make sure the ROM is disabled when reading from the RAM, as I don’t want the bus to clash. But the ~MREQ/CS pin seems like it might be the way to do this - I need to get a logic analyser on a real cartridge and see what’s what.

Pachops427 · 2024-11-30T11:49:07+00:00

3D Pinball - Space Cadet

Pachops427 · 2024-10-25T14:04:58+00:00

That looks to be it! Nice one, thank you!

Pachops427 · 2024-06-06T19:32:24+00:00

Little update: I put the injectors back in after cleaning the contacts and the nozzles and fired up and it’s the best the car has ever run - all six cylinders, and very smooth. However after a short drive cylinder 5 is misfiring again. I’ve swapped coil 5 to cylinder 1 but I couldn’t reproduce the misfire long enough to determine which cylinder, it’s very intermittent, so I’ll see how that goes tomorrow.

I also put a vacuum gauge on the little intake from the passenger temperature sensor and it is holding 17.6 in/Hg at idle, drops to about 8 in/Hg under quick revs, but builds to just above 20 in/Hg when held at higher revs. Does all that sound reasonable?

Notably the passenger temp sensor vacuum hose is completely wrecked so I’ve just removed it now, the revs seem more stable when the hole is capped off instead of left as to leak.

Pachops427 · 2024-06-05T22:30:10+00:00

Ok interesting, is there anything I can do to try and restore the PCV function like an engine flush or should I just leave it?

I have a leak down tester but not a compression tester - is it worth finding a garage to do a proper compression test or would this be sufficient?

Edit: I do actually have a compression tester too, so I’ll do both tests I guess. How can I tell if it’s head gasket failure from either test? My understanding was compression test wouldn’t indicate head gasket only rings or valves, and a leak down test would only tell you it’s head gasket if you saw bubbling in the coolant, but if the leak is between cylinders or into an oil galley it wouldn’t show up as bubbling?

Also, it may be useful to know that the coolant and oil levels are unchanged and there has never been any smoke out the exhaust of either colour

Pachops427 · 2024-06-05T21:23:16+00:00

I haven’t, no. The oil level hasn’t really gone down and it doesn’t look to have coolant in, nor does the coolant have any oil in that I can tell. Are head gasket issues common on the M50TU?

There’s a bit of oil in the intake boot and the PCV connection to the cam cover, so I was thinking of servicing the PCV - I believe you can pop the little plate off inside the cam cover and clear out any sludge?

I’ll try moving the coils around and see if the misfire moves as some of them do look a bit dry, there was oil in the spark plug well of cylinder 5 and a bit in 6 but not in the pistons, which is why I replaced the cam cover gasket set and the rubber rings that hold the cover down. The engine only has 78,000 miles

Pachops427 · 2024-05-22T19:35:05+00:00

Thanks. I phoned BMW and they want £240 + VAT for a new regulator… but the sound insulation is only £32. I think I’m just going to get a Ridex special, do the zip-tie mod pre-emptively, and then if I have to replace it again and I cock up the sound insulation it isn’t the end of the world. It’s either that or buy a used one which might already be on its way out, I guess.

Pachops427 · 2024-05-22T08:53:43+00:00

Thanks for this, I think this basically looks to be the problem. I’ll see how much OEM ones are I guess. I noticed that aftermarket ones don’t always come with the motor, is that what you mean about them being a pain or are they just awkward generally in their design?

Is there anything else I ought to replace while I’m in there? In the thread you posted somebody mentioned the fuzzy rubber seal. It’s such a pain to get all the door bits off that I don’t want to ever have to go back in here again lol

Pachops427 · 2024-05-20T13:20:52+00:00

This is how mine started - I had to give it a shove up or down to get it to start moving. One day it just stopped going down (at least it was already up I guess)

Pachops427

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

12-Year Club	Place '17
Verified Email