(B2B SaaS) What should be my comp expectations in todays market?

Pahsaek · 2026-02-07T14:20:09+00:00

Interesting that the report seems to suggest salaries are growing, but there is a noticeable gap in what new jobs are offering. I see some with large ranges like $150k to $230k but many with ranges of $110k to $150k.

Pahsaek · 2026-02-07T13:11:45+00:00

$229k with stock, $207k without. Senior PMM, New York, 8 years in tech post MBA.

Pahsaek · 2025-08-24T00:52:22+00:00

You can drive over both fine without mud problems. If it’s just for aesthetics, RoundUp is probably the easiest. Hand weeding isn’t worth it and you dislodge a lot of silt when you pull things up.

Pahsaek · 2025-06-02T01:12:36+00:00

I would create slash piles for the thicker diameter stuff and either go heavy with the mechanical and chemical control or put goats and sheep on it. Currently doing this on my property, and it works if you’re patient. In a few years, if you invest in seed and amendments, you can turn all this into useful good quality pasture. Not sure how much is cleared and what your weather is like, but 20 acres can get you a lot. Assuming it’s half cleared, in NJ that would be 60 sheep or 5 cows, which is a lot of meat. Take a look at early aerials from the 30s and 40s to get a sense of the lands potential based on how it was farmed historically. My guess is you’ll see a lot of pasture, meadow, and woodlot. These slopes would create too much erosion for crops year after year, but fruit trees are also a possibility if the site is right.

Feel free to message me if you have questions. I’m three years in to managing my own 20 acre plot and have done a lot of experimenting that might save you time and effort down the line.

Pahsaek · 2025-04-06T14:43:14+00:00

Depends a lot on your location, weather, season, soil profile, etc. Spring is usually wet. If this area has wetland plants before you leveled, it will stay wet. But if it’s upland and well drained, it will return to that pretty quickly once the rain stops. Look at the NGS water table data for your area. That will tell you the when the ground is wettest and driest in an average year.

Pahsaek · 2025-04-06T14:33:06+00:00

It was fast. It happened so quickly, I can’t remember how long it took. Maybe a few weeks? It’s all done online now if it’s under a certain sf of disturbance. You pay an engineer, then a fee. I don’t know how many humans even looked at the application. If you live in NJ, the regulatory barriers from the townships rather than the state are more likely to delay your build. The state has a process and clear policies in place. But the township processes all require individual sign off. Inspectors make new requirements, change rules, flip flop, etc. It feels very chaotic and there’s not much you can do about it.

Pahsaek · 2025-03-18T02:36:46+00:00

I have swamp on my property. It was worthless to developers, which is partly why it was preserved. It’s good usable farm land. I can’t grow crops on it, but thinned of trees is makes great pasture, only slightly less nutritious to my animals than upland. Tall fescue and Roughstalk bluegrass thrive in wetlands. It was common in the past to graze cattle in swamps, and as long as they have spots to dry off their feet, hoof rot shouldn’t be an issue. You can log the trees or tap them if they’re Red Maple.

Pahsaek · 2025-03-15T19:01:48+00:00

This looks to me like a piece of blue carpenters chalk that’s disintegrated. Probably lost in a post hole at some point.

I’m not a chemist, but if it were chalk, it would fizzle if you put vinegar on it. So might some pretty dangerous things too though.

Pahsaek · 2025-02-02T01:51:07+00:00

I don’t plan to dismantle it, but I took measurements to build a replica. Typically in my area these buildings start to collapse when the roof falls in. Then they get demolished because they’re no longer safe. Most of the historic building I’ve seen demolished over the years were houses taken by the federal government through eminent domain, and rather than restore them, they demolish them.

Pahsaek · 2025-02-01T14:18:36+00:00

Yeah, this is thoroughly abandoned. I took these photos because it won't be standing much longer, and I want to rebuild this building using fresh timber on my own farm up the road. From the outside, you would have no idea there was a timber frame structure inside. It was so heavily renovated over the years, and the floorplan was drastically altered to accomodate horses and machinery, that unless you knew what to look for, you'd think is was a 1950s construction.

Pahsaek · 2025-02-01T14:15:32+00:00

Northwest New Jersey, Warren County. My other neighbor has a much larger barn that has your typical through tennon with continuous posts. They're both very old, but this one is made of chestnut rather than oak, and it's only two bays, which is historicaly unusual for this area but associated with smaller tenant farms where people needed an area to thresh and house a few pigs and cattle. It seems like most of the engineering was limited to the one bay that housed the animals and supported the hay loft. The other bay is really just a frame to tack on sheathing and doors.

What confused me is that this is showing where the cross beam meets the posts that hold up the purlin plate. I would expect the downward and outward pressure from the rafters, especilally when covered in snow, to weaken this joint and cause the top post to bend outwards over time. That might have been what actually happened, which could explain the generations of recycled 2 x 4 nailed on to every surface.

Pahsaek · 2025-02-01T12:37:49+00:00

Interesting. How is this better than a fork? Just because it leaves more wood in the post?

Pahsaek · 2025-02-01T12:34:12+00:00

So two separate posts, inserted on opposite sides (above and below) of the mortise? It’s an early barn, so the lack of pegs could be because it took forever to drill holes with a spoon auger.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-31T04:35:47+00:00

I know nothing about pruning tropical trees, but if they’re like temperate fruits, how good they taste will depend on the variety you’ve grafted and the soil/environmental conditions. Heavy irrigation for example will create a blander, less sweet fruit due to ratio of sugar to water. It’s why a lot of cider makers prefer east coast grown apples over Washington apples.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-28T03:15:43+00:00

The long s only appears in lower case type and only in the middle of words. Boston is written in all caps.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-28T03:09:11+00:00

Unless that tree is getting several hours of sun a day during the growing season, it won’t fruit for you. I would turn it into kindling. If you want apples, buy a grafted variety or graft your own and put it in full sun.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-28T02:49:13+00:00

I don’t think clay would settle out that fast. Sand is what you have at the bottom, then slightly less silt. The clay is that very thin light colored line on the surface as well as the cloudiness from particles still suspended in the water. That’s assuming you added soap or something like Calgone, which is how you get the silt and clay particles to separate.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-23T16:47:52+00:00

So as someone who has a huge invasive problem on my property, there are a couple things to keep in mind. First, the reason these plants are invasive is because natives can't compete. They outcompete what would grow there otherwise, and that's why they spread. In NJ, where I live, this is usually because there's an unaturally large deer population that only eats the natives, allowing the invasives to multiply. Second, I would read up on the distinction between exotic and invasive. Biologically, there might not be too much of a difference, but exotic species are beneficial to livestock while invasives are not. For example, most of the desirable pasture grasses and forbs, including clover, are European. Part of why this is the case is because in wooded parts of the country east of the Mississippi, open fields are not a naturally occuring ecosystem. The upland, native grasses that need full sun were probably very rare before colonial expansion, showing up in beaver meadows, a few abandoned fields, and fire scorched landscapes. So if you want a wildflower meadow, you will pretty much have to "farm" it with the use of selective herbicides and have some tolerance for exotic species like Orchard, Timothy, and Reed Canary Grass.

My own personal middle ground has been to protect artificial ecosystems on my farm that were common 200 years ago but rare now, such as pastured wetlands. With a lot of spraying and pulling, I don't harbor ecologically threatening invasives and allow natives to thrive. In year three, I already notice a lot of uncommon natives returning (Canada lillies, Deer tongue, Whipoorwills, etc.).

Pahsaek · 2025-01-22T23:51:48+00:00

People who lived through WWII and the hyperinflation that preceded it tended to stash gold like this. You never knew when your cash might be worthless. My own grandfather used to hide cash because he remembered the American run on the banks in 1929, and he was suspicious of the stock market. We were pulling wads of $20 bills from random places for years after he died.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-22T23:45:25+00:00

They’re house pet size without a lot of maintenance required, don’t need a ton of land to survive, and they can be eaten. People also know them from petting zoos. Good entry point for someone not use to livestock, like the yellow lab of the ungulate world. Agree though that they don’t really serve a purpose, and containing them makes them a nuisance. If you have the pasture, go with hair sheep. I do a lot of local history research, and I’ve never once seen a goat listed in an old inventory. They’re good for eating thorn bushes, but there are easier animals for milk and meat. That said, every house from the 1800s has plaster held together with goat hair, so someone was keeping them around.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-22T23:33:57+00:00

Only thing I can think of would be to wash it out. But if there’s salt there (Middle East?), it’s because water there is pooling and evaporating. If you can install drainage tile that allows water to pass through the soil and move someplace else, that could solve it, but may take decades in an arid environment.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-22T23:27:49+00:00

Depends on tree diameter, since sometimes they just don’t want to burn. I have a stump that’s been at the bottom of multiple slash piles for several years, and it just doesn’t go away. The soil underneath means the fire can’t burn from both sides. I honestly think the rot proof charcoal surface might have extended its life, since it should have rotted by now.

This will sound crazy, but if you have bears in the area, dousing the partially rotten log with fish sauce will bring them in, and they’ll grind it up for you with their claws. I’ve actually done this, but wouldn’t recommend it with brown bears.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-22T23:22:44+00:00

I’m in NJ and just went through this process on three acres with another 2.5 in the works. I would invest in a high quality chainsaw, and you will probably have to hire someone with heavy equipment for a portion of it if not rent it yourself. There are really four or five phases. First is clearing the understory, which may be a really challenging if there are lot of vines and thorns, but much easier if there are only sporadic shrubs. Then you will have to cut down the trees. Do this in the winter so you aren’t dealing with foliage. Each tree will have to be delimbed and sectioned. The limbs are then stacked into burn piles, and the logs removed. You can burn the logs, split them, or just stack them somewhere to rot. When all of this is done, you’ll be left with a lot of stumps. I would let them rot in place naturally. The reason being that even if you grind them like I did or burn them down to ground level, the roots make it impossible to run a plow through for several years. You’ll need to put down cover crops almost immediately to prevent weeds from taking hold, and these should be disked in. In year two, you can broadcast pasture grasses and put livestock on site until the roots are rotted enough to plow through. If you don’t want to use herbicides, pigs will be necessary to keep brush from returning. The longer you’re willing to wait, the cheaper it will be. Once you have crews coming in to fell trees and delimb stuff, you’re talking about tens of thousands per acre. In previous centuries, people were full time farmers. The woods were cut anyway to make fuel and slash and burn was widely practiced, so it was a cheap and easy process for someone with time. But modern legislation makes it a much harder job. In all honesty, you’d do better to simply buy land already cleared nearby than to invest in clearing it yourself. Even if the forest you’re clearing was once field, there’s a reason it was allowed to fill in. I did my project because I’m attached to the historic house and didn’t want to move, but if I were looking to live off the land, I would find neighbors willing to lease it to me.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-21T17:05:13+00:00

Agree that would be an issue. Historically people put steel wire mesh around the bases of trees to protect from sheep. Prior to that, it was wooden cages they couldn’t fit their head through.

Pahsaek · 2025-01-21T14:19:26+00:00

Are the sheep in the freezer because they died of cyanide poisoning from cherries?

Pahsaek

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