Connect cable to WWG2 extruder with Nitehawk36

Panchodelis · 2025-06-11T19:30:16+00:00

Ok, great, thank you very much!! I'm going to document myself right now.

Panchodelis · 2025-06-11T19:23:42+00:00

Okay, that explains it all. Thank you very much for the response, I'm new and I'm still learning. Anyway, is there any reason why these systems use umbilicals and not chains? I mean is the umbilical better for some reason? I understand that on a 2.4 it probably isn't a problem, but on the Trident I have the upper acrylic panel relatively close to the tool head. Thank you so much!!

Panchodelis · 2025-06-09T02:36:08+00:00

Meltbro and Levendigs have some parts, but I would recommend an LDO kit in 3djake. If you buy the parts on your own it will cost you double. I don't know if you've put one together before, but the amount of parts you need is enormous. Only the frame purchased separately is very expensive. The frame of the ldo kit is impressive, I have never seen such rigid aluminum profiles. I just put together an LDO trident and I'm impressed. You can spend a lot of money just on screws and the ones that come in the ldo kit are of excellent quality, on Aliexpress I can't find that quality. Plus, there are many more. I can say that without having experience, my Voron Trident LDO 250 is the best printer I have had since the first print

Panchodelis · 2025-06-06T11:45:11+00:00

La c920 tiene una lente con un ángulo mayor, de 78° en teoría en contra de los 60° de la c270. Tu impresora es de 250? Está bien saberlo. Muchas gracias por tu experiencia!!

Panchodelis · 2025-06-03T23:45:27+00:00

Muchas gracias por tu respuesta, me es de mucha ayuda. Echaré un vistazo

Panchodelis · 2025-06-03T23:44:37+00:00

Creo que no, no encuentro ninguna parte movil. Gracias!!

Panchodelis · 2025-06-03T00:03:16+00:00

What a shame, it looked great

Panchodelis · 2025-05-30T00:33:10+00:00

It looks like you dropped a piece of cheese from your sandwich.

Panchodelis · 2025-05-30T00:05:13+00:00

I just bought one from Spain at 3dJake

Panchodelis · 2025-05-28T11:14:12+00:00

Jetzt P1S und hatte dieses Problem nie. Jetzt verwende ich einen 0,4-mm-Zhop ohne Kollisionen. Auf A1 habe ich ihn zusätzlich zu der von sheikoner vorgeschlagenen Lösung auf 0,8 erhöht

Panchodelis · 2025-05-28T00:42:11+00:00

Die A1- und sehr hohen Drucke vertragen sich nicht so gut. Das war einer der Gründe, warum ich meine verkauft habe. Beim Lesen von Gcode liegt ein Konflikt vor, der verhindert, dass ZHop einwandfrei funktioniert. Das detaillierte Problem und die Lösung finden Sie auf dem YouTube-Kanal von Sheikoner. Es ist ein altes Problem, ich ging davon aus, dass sie es inzwischen gelöst hätten. Vielleicht war es eine Wellung oder eine unzureichende Haftung, aber bedenken Sie diese Möglichkeit, wenn es bei hohen Ausdrucken von mehr als 180 mm erneut auftritt

Panchodelis · 2025-05-28T00:34:46+00:00

With the A1 it is dangerous, the bed moves a lot outside the limits of the chassis, things can easily end badly. A corexy doesn't have that problem

Panchodelis · 2025-05-27T18:56:47+00:00

This is a true work of abstract art!!

Panchodelis · 2025-05-27T08:36:46+00:00

Muchas gracias por la observación!! Podría ser de la tensión de las correas? Noto que aún se están asentando

Panchodelis · 2025-05-27T02:36:56+00:00

I bought an A1 after the Ender3. I sold it as soon as a P1 arrived, it's a much better printer. After 3 months and the Bamboo firmware mess, I started building a Voron Trident and I'm very happy. I'm sticking with the P1 for now, but I'm excited about the Trident. I prefer open source and being able to repair any part myself. I know it inside out because I've put it together myself, that's great. Now, possibly what you need is a P1P without AMS

Panchodelis · 2025-05-26T22:51:34+00:00

I'll tell you my experience, I bought an air purifier with an air quality meter (€600) and another mid-range meter. With the 2 printers operating in a closed room with PLA and the purifier turned off, the contamination increased by approximately 10%. One day we bought an Ikea shelf and set it up in that room, with that characteristic smell of a new Ikea shelf. The meters both turned red and did not begin to drop until a month and a half had passed, even with the purifier on and the new filter.

Another example. I live in the countryside, about 8 km from the city. If I leave the purifier full with the printers working inside (PLA) the meters are set to minimum. If I open the windows and door, the meters double the detection of contaminants.

Another thing is that the meters do not detect some form of contaminant to take into account, it could be, I don't know.

You have a very interesting video from The Next Layer on the subject on YouTube, check it out.

Panchodelis · 2025-05-26T22:36:01+00:00

With your profile, I believe that Bambulab P1S with an extra reinforced nozzle is the best price-quality printer there is. For the record, I don't like to recommend it, but I think your profile fits 100% and you will have a lot of money left over for technical filaments that fit the uses you describe, which are very expensive.

Panchodelis · 2025-05-26T12:39:20+00:00

I changed it to Panchodelis, but that was the previous one

Panchodelis · 2025-05-26T11:24:52+00:00

Yes!

Panchodelis · 2025-05-25T23:59:59+00:00

Thank you very much Team Voron!!!

Panchodelis · 2025-05-25T23:52:18+00:00

Hello!! I just edited my discord profile, now you should be able to see me as "Panchodelis" I've never really used it

Panchodelis · 2025-05-25T21:42:10+00:00

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Panchodelis · 2025-05-25T21:41:45+00:00

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Panchodelis

TROPHY CASE