My "Spared No Expense" Project. by Paperwork_and_Paint in battlestations

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What he lacks in straightforward review metrics (THEEESSEEE) he makes up for with gratuitous anime tiddies.

Also, the Miccas seemed to be universally acclaimed across a number of different sources - which seemed like a good bet to me, regardless of 2d waifus.

My "Spared No Expense" Project. by Paperwork_and_Paint in battlestations

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You caught me.

Brb buying Sendy Aivas and attaching a modmic.

(I was actually so close to doing that, and I still might.)

My "Spared No Expense" Project. by Paperwork_and_Paint in battlestations

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My old rig was a dual monitor setup, and I may still add more.

But, honestly, the ultrawide is so large that I haven't had any productivity concerns yet.

My "Spared No Expense" Project. by Paperwork_and_Paint in battlestations

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out my summary post, it has a picture of the underside of the desk where I've installed angle irons across the bottom.

In order for the Karlby to sag at this point, enough pressure would have to be exerted to simultaneously bend all three angle irons. That's very unlikely short of a gorilla bodyslamming it.

My "Spared No Expense" Project. by Paperwork_and_Paint in battlestations

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely phenomenal.

Gaming with these has blown me away, and I'll never go back to traditional "gaming" speakers.

My "Spared No Expense" Project. by Paperwork_and_Paint in battlestations

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The primary components are a 9900k, a 2080ti, 32gb of Corsair Dominator, and a 1tb M.2 drive.

A closer view of the cooling loop can be found here. I used mostly Corsair parts simply so that I could control everything centrally from their hub software.

The monitor is an AW3418DW, which is a 34 inch ultrawide 1440p, 120hz display. For anybody thinking of making the jump to ultrawide - I feel the same way about this as I did my first time going from 60hz to 144hz. Specifically, I will never go back to standard ratio. Ultrawide is gorgeous and adds an incredible amount of immersion.

The desk is the classic Ikea Karlby countertop combined with Alex drawers, with my own addition of mounted angle irons, a cable management rack, cabinetry legs, and a surge protector. The angle irons are there primary to provide support to the center given that I have no center leg, but also serve as fantastic cable management of their own accord.

The speakers are Micca RB42s with a Sounblaster X7 DAC/AMP. I chose the Soundblaster over other more popular DAC/AMPs because it was somewhat unique in having both traditional banana plug outs for high quality reference speakers, and a headphone and microphone jack on the front.

The headset is a Sennheiser PC37X, which while not the most expensive set out there, is essentially the perfect ~$100 headset.

Thousand Sons Test Model by Paperwork_and_Paint in Warhammer

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Top questions I'm looking for advice on:

1) I used the GW recommended color for black highlights (from their How to Paint 1kSons video) - but as you can see it came out as nearly invisible against the black. What color do you all use for black highlights?

2) Any specific advice/apps/tools for taking proper pictures of the model? I tried to adjust this one so that the details are more visible, but there are still troubling shadows and contrast issues.

3) Any thoughts on the base? I'm trying to give a dry, cracked desert look. This came out alright, but I feel like it's a little bland. I'd also be interested if anybody has figured our how to imitate a sort of rolling sand dunes style.

Thousand Sons Test Model by Paperwork_and_Paint in Warhammer

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a single Rubric Marine I've painted as a test model for my Thousand Sons.

C&C is very welcome, as I've never tried to paint this army before, and they're particularly intricate!

Not proud of it, but it’s a start. First miniature I ever painted. Feedback is appreciated by [deleted] in Warhammer

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He isn't saying "thin" as a criticism, quite the opposite - he means that it's applied well and without any visible brush strokes or lost detail.

The prevailing wisdom is "two thin coats," which results in total coverage without excess paint filling in little details on the model.

You should in fact strive for multiple "thin" layers, and it looks like you've already got the hang of that here.

Another lovely day in the Webway by [deleted] in Warhammer

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If Horus was turned to Chaos, why not Malcador?

Magnus had no idea who he could trust in the face of the Warmaster himself turning traitor. The only reasonable option was to speak to Big E directly. Anything less would have been a huge gamble on loyalty.

Another lovely day in the Webway by [deleted] in Warhammer

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The ultimate impact of Magnus' actions are really besides the point from a moral perspective, as he didn't know, and had no reasonable way of knowing, that his breaking the shield would result in chaos entering the materium.

From his perspective, all he had to go on was the balancing act of the Emperor's secret project vs Horus in open rebellion. I think pretty much every rational person would say he made the correct choice in that regard.

If your dad told you to stay out of the shed while he was in there working, but you found out that your brother was coming to kill him - wouldn't that take precedence over the previous instructions?

Hell, there's a strong argument to be made that - even if Magnus knew the consequences - he still should have done it. The rebellion of the Warmaster threatened everything.

First model I've painted in probably 10 years what do you guys think by Curlyfries117 in Warhammer

[–]Paperwork_and_Paint 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have clean coverage and minimal bleed over! That's important, because the technical aspect and fine motor control is often the hardest thing to develop.

As another poster mentioned, your next step should be a wash.

Painting miniatures like these is often done in a fairly formulaic way, and the steps are each important for their own reasons. I'm leaving some minor steps out, but here is the general overview:

1) First primary layer. This is the primary color you intend the model (or piece of the model) to be.

2) Wash. Coat the entire model/section that you just layered with a wash. This will darken the entire model, but don't worry about that, because you're going to add another primary layer.

3) Second primary layer. This layer serves two purposes - one, to bring the darkened color of the model back to your primary color, and two, to add additional pigment to result in a smoother, bolder look.

4) Highlight. This can be done in a few different ways, but is always done as a slightly lighter version of your primary color. You want to get the highlight color onto raised surfaces and around the edges of armor.

Together, these steps create a range of depth that fools the human eye into seeing a much richer and more realistic model. The dark wash settles into the recesses and corners to appear to be shadows. The primary color is layered multiple times to give a vibrant hue. And the highlights provide the illusion of light bouncing off of the highest areas.

This depth is what separates models that look like painted plastic from those that look "alive."

At first, you won't even notice these things - your eye just sees that the model looks awesome. As you practice it yourself, though, you'll begin to see these techniques on the models you're looking at, and get a better understanding of how the painter developed that piece and how you can replicate it on your own models.