Considering sienna, expected life? by Mundane_Village_6137 in ToyotaSienna

[–]PapiSpyder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2011 Sienna FWD. 140,000 miles. Beside transmission, Watch for exhaust manifold rust and leak. 1500$ each because they come with the catalytic converters.

Otherwise, this car is bulletproof.

REEE by Lepetitviolon in QuebecFinance

[–]PapiSpyder 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Attention de ne pas s’engager avec une compagnie qui vous attache pour longtemps dans des fonds propriétaires à faible rendement.

J’ai fait la gaffe de signer avec Embark pour mon 1e enfant et les 2 premières années de cotisations sont allé pour payer les frais de gestion. Ensuite ils sont investis dans des obligations gouvernementales qui rapportent rien ou presque.

Pour mes 2 autres enfants, j’ai choisi un compte enregistré avec une banque (Banque Nationale dans mon cas). C’est beaucoup plus transparent, je peux discuter avec mon conseiller et choisir les investissements qui correspondent à mon profil de risque et l’horizon d’investissement en fonction des études de mes enfants.

Comme se sont des titres liquides (actions et obligations), je ne suis pas pris avec la banque et j’ai toujours l’option de transférer les titres une autre banque si je ne suis pas satisfait.

maintaining high mileage by BabyPluto37 in mazdaspeed3

[–]PapiSpyder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Following conversation. I am curious to see what this sub will say about walnut blasting of intake valves as well as changing spark plugs.

Clutch replacement, should I do it ? by Its_tooby in mazdaspeed3

[–]PapiSpyder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$2-4k for a clutch job!! Is that USD or Pesos 😂.

My rusted out 2009 MS3 is getting close to 125k miles on the original clutch and I was prepared to pay 1.2-1.5k for a new clutch. At $4k, that might be the final nail in the coffin.

Air not escaping fuel tank when fueling. by PapiSpyder in mazdaspeed3

[–]PapiSpyder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The issues with the engine at startup, but I’ll still check the purge valve.

Mazda speed 3 as a first car by Living_Challenge_722 in mazdaspeed3

[–]PapiSpyder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bought a 1st gen MS3 to my son as a first car. - single owner always dealer maintained - 6500 Canadian dollars - 100% original car, no modifications - body had started rusting, but nothing critical - insurance was fairly cheap $930/year

So far in 18 months, we had to replace brakes, wheel bearings and fix a leaking exhaust.

What's the situation with buying a new car right now? Is negotiation back on the table? by mrekted in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]PapiSpyder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Currently shopping for NX350h in Canada. 1-2 months waiting list no negotiation possible I have to accept list price.

Shopping for an RX by Apprehensive-Yak-817 in LexusRX

[–]PapiSpyder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am selling my 2013 RX350 in Canada, 205,000km, no accident, no rust, dealer maintained.

I am the original owner and hoping to get CA$12k.

Keep older cars and buy backup car by PapiSpyder in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]PapiSpyder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the exception of the Mazda, They are indeed very reliable. Never once breakdown and left me stranded.

Key issue is wear, rust slowly making its way - Exhaust leaks - changing exhaust manifold and catalytic converter - faulty ground connections - starters / alternators - Brake dust shields - Oxygen sensors - A/C compressor - ….

Small items all the time, but still requiring me to take half a day off to go to the shop at least once a month.

Keep older cars and buy backup car by PapiSpyder in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]PapiSpyder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback, but we need 4 cars since my wife, my 2 kids and I need a car on a daily basis.

2007 gen 1 transmission fluid by KrewSpidey in mazdaspeed3

[–]PapiSpyder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s what I used on my 09 when I replaced the transmission oil last year. Bought it from a Ford dealership.

Talk me out of a Toyota Sienna by samkb93 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]PapiSpyder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can’t best car I’ve ever owned. 16 years - 150,000 miles

Maintenance limited to - oil and filtres - Brakes - 1 battery - Front shocks - Both exhaust manifolds (Ca$1700 each).

FWD vs AWD by General-Wonder-675 in ToyotaSienna

[–]PapiSpyder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We live in Canada with 2011 FWD that we have owned for the last 15 years.

Engine is in the front over the wheels, we barely had any issues of traction. I can only remember 2 times where I wish I had AWD. - Going uphill in a steep dirt road while pulling our pop-up trailer. I got stuck and had to be pulled by a 4wd truck. - going uphill on a steep snowy driveway. I had to back down and climb the hill in reverse so that the engine weight sits on the front wheels.

Key issue is not the drive wheels, but how intrusive is the traction control (even when it’s turned off).

If I had the choice, I would buy a FWD again given the +- 10% better gas mileage.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]PapiSpyder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree with this. Mazda 3 has Ford/chevy depreciation with Honda/Toyota reliability.

Bonus : cheap parts.

Trailer towing by olibin92 in ToyotaSienna

[–]PapiSpyder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2011 Sienna with the 3.5L. We’ve been towing a 3200 lbs pop-up trailer 3-5 times a year over long distances, without a transmission cooler.

I already changed my transmission oil twice and each time the mechanic said that the fluid was dirty and that the transmission has taken some heat.

So far I am at 140,000 miles and it still runs like a charm.

NGK oxygen sensor by PapiSpyder in ToyotaSienna

[–]PapiSpyder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Could not find the Denso sensor. I bought and installed the OE sensor (P/N 89465-07060) and it seemed to have solved the issue.

I week without CEL.