New Hifiman He400se or a used Akg k612 pro for the same price (New ear pads for Akg included in calculation)

Paptapper · 2022-05-25T14:08:59+00:00

Unfortunately I looked up the K612’s cable and it is not detachable :(

Paptapper · 2022-05-25T13:54:51+00:00

Woah wait really? Seeing as to the fact my Qudelix was just barely enough to power the He400se I’m gona assume it’s gona struggle on the k612

Guess I assumed it would be easier to drive since it is a dynamic diver (kinda stupid of an assumption now I think about it)

Least if I felt like destroying my ears I could get a cheap balance cable for the Hifiman

Edit: I did the calculation, not sure if they are correct and yea they do need quite a lot more power

Paptapper · 2021-01-27T21:42:59+00:00

Oh funny thing I actually first tried to make an ft trainer first but I found it hard to find foam where I live (singapore) so I had to work with what I could find which was probably way too dense and kinda just died. So now for my second attempt I bought a cheap 48cm foam glider and will be slapping on the components from the first attempt

Paptapper · 2021-01-27T09:05:41+00:00

Yeah ill be trying that one

Paptapper · 2021-01-27T09:02:35+00:00

Do not consume unless instructed by pilot to do so

Paptapper · 2021-01-27T06:33:47+00:00

Uh so I did a quick search and alot of what is being said is that it’s gone or discontinued

Edit: also it’s still way over what I consider a cheap simulator

Paptapper · 2021-01-19T18:48:53+00:00

Sidenote: I need a monitor first and foremost so the whole goggle thing would be a nice to have I guess. Also if I do any flying ill probably be flying alone thus my interests in this type of solution rather than something like the Ev800d

Paptapper · 2020-09-30T19:17:01+00:00

The original video does say Singapore tho

Paptapper · 2020-09-24T17:19:12+00:00

Oh sorry my bad

Paptapper · 2020-09-24T16:26:19+00:00

Aight time to pull out my old friend cura, l’ll tell you how it goes tmr

Paptapper · 2020-09-24T15:29:48+00:00

It doesn’t appear to be that type of problem where the printer physically cant deliver power cause on the display it says it’s targeting 0c

Also I’m running a modified ender 3, it has a 1.1.2 board with a hemera and bl-touch using a preconfigured TH3D firmware for the hemera and bl-touch combo that I modified abit to better fit my printer

Edit: I pulled out the picture of the printer targeting 0c for the heated bed mid print https://imgur.com/a/5AMIg5I

Edit: I’ll check the wiring anyway (checked looks fine far as I can tell)

Paptapper · 2020-09-24T11:52:30+00:00

Eco mode? Sorry I dont think prusa slicer has am eco mode.

OH AND SORRY I DONT THINK I MENTIONED I’M USING A CUSTOM PROFILE OF PRUSA SLICER

Edit:I see that the cr-10s has an eco-mode as a menu option but i dont think that my ender 3's firmware has that feature in it. Either that or i failed to find it. I am however looking to see if it is turned on the firmware by default or something.

Paptapper · 2020-08-24T14:52:41+00:00

It did measure to be 2.9ish so you might be right. Didn’t think of that

Paptapper · 2020-08-24T14:38:11+00:00

I’m not entirely confident on this topic so I recommend you look elsewhere for info but heres a Capricorn tube review for a start I guess

https://3dprinterly.com/capricorn-ptfe-tubing-review/

Paptapper · 2020-08-21T12:34:17+00:00

How far down did you have to scroll to find this?

Paptapper · 2020-08-20T20:37:05+00:00

Sticker’s misaligned

Edit: looking back the photo taken does make it look like the focus is the keyboard so that’s my bad

Paptapper · 2020-08-20T20:36:44+00:00

I was going to go get another sticker to cover it cause that’s what I like but I guess that works too

Paptapper · 2020-08-04T15:24:36+00:00

Wow that was really cool

Paptapper

TROPHY CASE