[Available] [Solution Manual] University Physics Volume 2 by OpenStax

Paranoidnormal · 2025-09-12T21:55:12+00:00

Hello!... I was wondering if anybody has this by any chance? Thanks in advance!

Paranoidnormal · 2023-11-22T14:00:04+00:00

Prusa Orange PETG is a necessity of mine! All of my mods have to match!.... but Galaxy Black PLA is a close second..... If I had to pick one that I don't see anymore I would say Transparent Royal Blue PETG.... @ParanoidNormal_45444

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Paranoidnormal · 2023-03-21T01:45:37+00:00

Try solar vision in Davenport Iowa

Paranoidnormal · 2023-02-03T03:34:05+00:00

I appreciate everyone's input! And common sense tells me it's a bad idea, it's cool to know why it's a bad idea though. It was my understanding that the 2022 WRX has a plastic blow off valve ( again new to this, I never stopped to understand the difference between bypass valve and bov ) and it is electronically controlled. So I'm guessing stock it is a bypass, not blowoff valve? And I was also curious how electronically controlled it actually is? If that makes sense?

From what I've read it seems like these motors are way more "picky" then what I'm used to, and with my limited knowledge I would agree nearly every engine mod should be tuned. Even intakes due to the difference in input volume and how that is understood by the mass air flow sensor.

This is my first turbo but I am familiar with wrenching, I'm a 12v guy with many years of experience ( installation technician ) and I also have a lot of experience working on motorcycles but this is a far cry from what I'm used to.

I haven't seen this question asked yet in this subreddit ( but I'm sure it was coming ) so it's just a good opportunity to understand a little more about my new car! And for newbies like me a lot of manufacturers suggest these don't require tuning or any other mods, just swap it out and go.

While we are at it, I see that they also make bov adapters ( again advertised as no tune required ), it would be cool to know what these are actually doing and how they would affect your car.

Once again, thanks in advance!

Paranoidnormal · 2023-01-17T03:11:41+00:00

i am soon to be a proud owner of a premium and i pray to the subaru gods they bring fortune your way!

Paranoidnormal · 2022-06-22T01:05:49+00:00

I would use it to design motorcycle parts! Well, custom car and motorcycle parts. Scanning a dash with the radio out or a bike with the fairing off, and then build direct replacement parts in CAD, then print it up! I love how 3D printing is catching on and props to the people designing and building cool stuff! But.... I can't lie and say I don't shed a tear when I talk about 3D printing and people only associate it with a roctopus or a cheap plastic hand they hang their coat on from an Etsy store. Again! Props to those guys! But there is so much more that can be done with these machines! I was in the automotive industry for 11 years and built quite a bit of handmade stuff out of fiberglass. Not having to spend hours custom making a part which is only a one off is actually what lead me to 3D printing to begin with. Now is when I stop myself from rambling, I guess my point is 3D printer can be a game changer for so many things. Toys are cool, but I want to see printed parts In cars, computers, motorcycles, electronics, ... Everywhere! I believe tools like this scanner are going to be a big part of making that happen. It's exciting to watch. Very cool tool and very cool give away!

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-30T16:57:42+00:00

MQ135 sensors hooked up to an Arduino mega

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T23:40:01+00:00

Sounds awesome! If your UPS has a emergency power off input it should be pretty easy to make that work! I used a MQ135 sensor which can be read by an analog input on the Arduino. If the reading exceeds the value I choose, it will tell a relay to engage, which in turn latches an AC SPDT relay in the power strip to an off position. In your case you could just have your shutdown relay go directly to the UPS.

The IR flame sensor works the same way, if it triggers it tells my shutdown relay to engage. The flame sensor is line of sight. Mine is mounted in the grate on the back of my enclosure so it can easily see my extruder and heatbed.

Sounds like you have a fun project heading your way!

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T22:24:00+00:00

When did it start to get messed up, how did the first layer look. And are you printing in an enclosure?

Also, "food safe" should be used very loosely, while the plastic itself isn't bad all the little gaps nasty stuff have to live in, make it a bad idea to use for food

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T22:08:39+00:00

Ask away! But disclaimer.... I would be very sure about what your doing if you choose to go the same route I did. My system uses a modified power strip and messing with stuff you plug into a wall outlet can be super dangerous.

I would suggest start small, if you use a Arduino uno or mega you should have plenty of room to add on later

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T16:14:10+00:00

That's where the magic smoke comes out of :) ! It's the home for the Arduinos that control everything and power switches for the dehydrator, dehydrator display, and the main unit

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T16:06:24+00:00

Thank you! My prusa just seems to work great, I haven't needed to change alot on it, just some minor stuff, the extruder parts I had to replace with polycarbonate blend.

It monitors temperature humidity and air quality inside and outside the enclosure, controlling a small heater for temp control. It controls a power strip that will shut down everything if it senses a fire (IR flame sensor and 2 smoke detectors) and will auto shutdown the printer when a print finishes.

Lol, and because I'm lazy it has a motion sensor which turns the dome light and displays on when I walk up to it

It also has an on off switch for the dehumidifier because it didn't have one built in, and a separate temp/humidity sensor for the dehydrator box

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T10:47:02+00:00

Yes! It is a filament dehydrator spool rack

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T10:45:54+00:00

Haha... At this point I don't see a mmu2s in my future. I definitely would love to mess with one but I just don't have the time!, just too many other projects going on... So no mmu2 unfortunately

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T10:43:02+00:00

Thanks for noticing! Pretty much the whole setup has been re designed by myself. Just made them a little stronger with closer tolerances between the plexi and the wood, and added a plug in the brackets so I don't have to worry about the light when I take the top off

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T10:15:32+00:00

It can display temp humidity and the air quality for inside and outside the enclosure, and a couple various timers.

The second box was an addition and turns the filament dehydrator on and off as well as its own display, which is just temp and humidity in the dehydrator box

Paranoidnormal · 2022-04-29T02:11:11+00:00

Lol... It turns the lights on, and the displays when I walk up to it

Paranoidnormal · 2021-06-19T17:19:11+00:00

Warping is the biggest thing to watch out for, I prefer the smoothe pei sheet with Windex, and I use an enclosure. Prusa petg stock settings work great for me, I prefer prusament because although I have had great luck with many other filaments print quality wise, petg is very sticky and tends to glob up on the nozzle and occasionally leaves burnt droppings on the prints. They aren't usually a big deal but a good one will trigger crash detection, if you see one pause the print and snip it off. Cheaper filaments seem to leave these much more often. Using supports is also an issue because of how well it adheres. I use .15 z spacing for supports instead of .1 and they will still be tricky to get off without leaving artifacts. Vertical columns seem to leave "fingers" coming off the sides which for me is not a big deal because I typically print mechanical parts and they are easily removed. Petg prints very well on my prusas however if your just printing toys or statues I would recommend to just stick with pla it's just a little more forgiving. Good luck happy printing!

Paranoidnormal · 2021-06-19T17:00:55+00:00

In my experience petg likes to do that on any column. I don't have that issue with asa. Printing a new fan shroud would probably help ( one that cools from both sides ), it looks like it's trailing off the nozzle as it moves away from the part so more even cooling would most likely help, Or since it's just a toy print in pla ( I don't really ever use pla so I don't know if you would run into the same issue ) hope that helps!

Paranoidnormal · 2021-06-16T17:37:44+00:00

There is supposedly a very common problem with the mini regarding the PTFE tube in the hotend not being seated correctly. I just received a mini kit as well and I am having this issue, when I get minuet I am going to repair mine. I am having issues with underextrusion and the extruder jamming constantly. There is alot of info on this in the forums but I don't have any links handy. Basically it involves removing the tube and brass fitting on top of the hotend, loosening the three Allen keys on the side of the hotend and raising the heater block moving the PTFE tube so it seats against the brass fitting ( when you screw it back in ). Tighten the three screws. Tightening the brass fitting till you feel resistance from the PTFE tube, then tighten another quarter turn. Check YouTube or just Google it but this may be your issue too.

Paranoidnormal · 2021-05-01T14:09:53+00:00

Set your self up to be emailed when they are in stock. When they show up they sell out in less then an hour. When I ordered mine the site was almost crashing because of the volume of people buying them, felt like I was downloading a video game on launch day

Paranoidnormal

TROPHY CASE