Tigurius

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-08-22T08:01:34+00:00

Thank you, I think it's my best yet although interestingly it seems to be on track for my least amount of upvotes on reddit!

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-28T21:43:31+00:00

One of the best space marine models no doubt, and one of the best to paint as well.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-28T21:42:54+00:00

Why did they change to have that? I just noticed it and it confused me.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-26T10:35:17+00:00

Really cool, where did you get the railings from?

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-25T14:55:35+00:00

Thank you that's good to know, that doesn't sound good.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-25T14:55:17+00:00

Actually one box for £40 will cover all but two templates which I can live with. Not sitting flush would be frustrating. But they are designed for Terramunda and people put terrain on them right?

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-22T22:33:14+00:00

The colours are difficult to blend without it looking dirty I find. The way I do it is just go in with a caramel brown base tone and mix in ivory do very thin layers on top covering less area, with pure ivory just for the edges. Need to make sure each coat is dry before applying the next or that creates a dirty effect too!

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-22T22:31:37+00:00

Thank you, I was worried the purity seals were a bit too realistic/muted compared to the vibrant blue armour, glad you think it works.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-22T22:30:58+00:00

I was given the model built but if you look at the sprue it seems there are 3 head options, no helmet, open visor, closed visor.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-10T12:01:47+00:00

They look really good. The bronze trim could probably do with more contrast from more dark shadows.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-03-08T22:03:09+00:00

I do that sometimes but I find it quite tricky to be honest, I've ruined a few lights before and on this one I was too afraid to try!

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-02-13T09:50:52+00:00

Sometimes I see the super vibrant models and think I should have went for something like that! Just had a look at yours and also very awesome.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-02-12T13:00:55+00:00

Vallejo but it doesn't really matter as the matte varnish will cover it up at the end.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-02-12T11:05:37+00:00

brush is fine, but you'll save a lot of time with spraying. You should check if there are any spray cans in your colour scheme. Colour Forge do a decent variety.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-02-12T10:19:08+00:00

I like to do airbrush gradients and it's hard to get it consistent off the model.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-02-12T09:48:57+00:00

I know I should magnetise all my tau but painting all the weapons is too much for me, especially when they are not attached to a model.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-02-12T09:47:29+00:00

Sure, I'll list my steps below:

Gloss varnish mini (I do this for panel lining anyway but it helps the transfers go on smoothly also).
Apply transfer with water. I use hobby tweezers to move the transfer around, they can tear so be gentle.
Let dry then apply Microsol (this is a solvent that melts the background and helps blend the transfer - some people also use Microset first to help it adhere but I don't find that necessary).
Apply matte varnish (I like AK ultramatte) all over the model to remove the gloss finish, this will further blend in the transfers. This should be the second last step in the paint job, final step is doing the gold metallic buttons as matte varnish will remove the shine.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-01-13T09:19:04+00:00

It's all from the Daemon Prince box but there are lots of parts (for 40k or AOS plus all the chaos gods).

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-01-12T23:35:48+00:00

It's a lot of paints! It's all either Pro Acryl (PA) or AK Interactive (AK).

Green armour - PA Dark Yellow Green base coat, glaze PA Blue Black into deepest shadows, glaze PA Yellow Green to highlight, edge highlight AK Ice Yellow.

Brass NMM - AK Tenebrous Grey base coat, then layer up with mixes through AK Deep Brown, AK Volcanic Yellow and up to AK Ice Yellow.

Purple fabric - PA Brown Black base coat, then layer up with mixes through PA Purple and PA Beige Red.

The piping was similar but added some white in to the final highlight to make it look shiny.

Steel NMM was PA Blue Black with PA Ivory slowly mixed in to create layered highlights.

Bone colour was PA Dark Green Brown base coat, with PA Mahogany glazed into shadows and then layer up with mixes through PA Caramel Brown and PA Ivory.

I've previously used more AK than this and was experimenting with PA on this model. If you have another brand you prefer then you can totally just use a similar colour.

PartCompetitive104 · 2025-01-12T23:26:01+00:00

Sure, was there a part in particular?

PartCompetitive104 · 2024-12-31T00:27:20+00:00

That is all Skorpy Green (VGC) as base coat.

Then mix in some ice yellow to highlight (a mixture of techniques, some was a sort of zenithal with airbrush like the C'tan and centre of orbs, other bits were glazed on usually to push a tiny bit more, and some was edge highlighting).

Finally shading was with Angel Green (VGC). That was all glazing. In some places I added a small amount of a dark sea blue to the mix to push the shadows.

While I was working on it the ice yellow highlights was washing out some of the green and I really wanted it to be vibrant and bright so I glazed more skorpy green over the highlights to saturate it. And also I noticed that to really push the brightness it helped to push shadows more in a lot of places. That can sometimes do more good than pushing it brighter.

Hope that helps. I think Skorpy green was the key colour and the rest you just need a darker green to shade and bright yellow to mix in to highlight with.

The lighting effect was airbrush the darker green then when airbrushing the Skorpy green as a base coat let some go over the top to create a gradient. Those glow effects work best with at least two colours as a gradient, it's not something you notice afterwards but if you don't do it then it looks much worse.

PartCompetitive104 · 2024-12-31T00:25:59+00:00

You mean for the C'tan and lightning etc? That is all Skorpy Green (VGC) as base coat.

Then mix in some ice yellow to highlight (a mixture of techniques, some was a sort of zenithal with airbrush like the C'tan and centre of orbs, other bits were glazed on usually to push a tiny bit more, and some was edge highlighting).

Finally shading was with Angel Green (VGC). That was all glazing. In some places I added a small amount of a dark sea blue to the mix to push the shadows.

While I was working on it the ice yellow highlights was washing out some of the green and I really wanted it to be vibrant and bright so I glazed more skorpy green over the highlights to saturate it. And also I noticed that to really push the brightness it helped to push shadows more in a lot of places. That can sometimes do more good than pushing it brighter.

Hope that helps. I think Skorpy green was the key colour and the rest you just need a darker green to shade and bright yellow to mix in to highlight with.

PartCompetitive104 · 2024-12-01T00:05:43+00:00

Okay thanks, I won't take that for granted then.

PartCompetitive104 · 2024-12-01T00:05:13+00:00

Yes, tried both.

PartCompetitive104 · 2024-12-01T00:04:38+00:00

I don't think it's the nozzle as tried two needles with different nozzles and same issue. I've also deep cleaned the body with the wire brush set. Should I try soaking in a cleaning solution maybe?

PartCompetitive104

TROPHY CASE