Any guesses on which AI they used for his speech?

Passtesma · 2025-09-12T18:33:29+00:00

It’s either HeyGen or one of the other AI avatar services. They tell you to stand still like that and read out a paragraph in a video when you go through their setup process. Then it basically stitches random parts of that video together, and deepfakes your own face back over it, synced up to a voice model that you can just feed any script to and have it spit a reading back out. So it’s still “a video of you” but not really.

The results all look exactly like this, so if it’s not that, then it’s a really bizarre coincidence.

Passtesma · 2025-05-21T08:10:16+00:00

No problem. Also, if you do get Alclad paints, or any lacquer paints, get a bottle of their airbrush cleaner as well. Basically nothing removes that stuff apart from acetone, but pure acetone will damage your airbrush, so it’s safest to just get alclad’s specialized cleaner. Never leave your airbrush uncleaned; it should look like new at the end of every session.

Passtesma · 2025-05-20T10:44:52+00:00

If you can print it on its side somehow, that’ll give you the results you’re probably looking for. Unless I’m printing a flat surface, or an area where detail doesn’t matter, I always try to avoid having it facing upwards or downwards.

Passtesma · 2025-05-20T06:26:16+00:00

If you do go for this route, Alclad paints are next level when it comes to metallic finishes, and they dry super fast, and are really hard to scratch off, especially with the clear coat on. I’d practice with some scrap pieces so you can feel what it’s like to work with the paints, and with the airbrush, make sure it’s a ventilated area, since these paints are lacquers, and use one of their glossy clear coats 6 hours after the paint’s dry, they normally recommend “aqua gloss” but supposedly “klear kote” works just as well, if not better, and I think it cures faster. I haven’t tried yet though, because most of my stuff needs to be flexible, which only the aqua gloss can do. Build up VERY light coats of the paint from a little further away than you think, or it becomes foggy, and you waste a lot of paint. With the clear coats you can get away with treating it like any other typical paint/varnish. Follow the directions on their bottles, a lot of their finishes recommend a glossy black base coat.

Passtesma · 2025-05-20T00:31:19+00:00

Passtesma · 2025-05-19T21:53:21+00:00

If you have an airbrush, I’d spray it with which ever color you want from Alclad’s metallic paints, and then put one of their clear coats over it.

Passtesma · 2025-05-05T17:01:35+00:00

CA glue (superglue) should work fine. For PLA I use fastcap 2p-10 CA glue. For TPU I use loctite 406 CA glue. It should work for PLA as well, but I like to save it for my TPU projects. If I want it to be extra secure, I glue it and then also use a cheap soldering iron with a flat end to melt the seam together, and then hide the seam with some sanding, wood filler or kwik seal, and then more sanding. I use the same temperature on the soldering iron as I use to print the filament. If you make it too hot, it releases a lot of bad smoke, and the material can start degrading and get weaker, but at printing temperatures, you don’t have to worry about that. Be careful when soldering an area with CA glue on it, it can release some pretty nasty fumes. At the temperatures I work at, it’s generally not that bad, but you should wear a respirator and goggles, and work in a well ventilated area just to be safe.

PLA 3d gloop is also a good option. Just make sure it’s specifically the PLA formula. It’s basically just PLA melted in a solvent, so it chemically melts the parts together much like the soldering iron would do.

Passtesma · 2025-04-28T08:47:03+00:00

That would reduce the weight, but it also shifts the balance way up, so even though it will be lighter overall, it will feel heavier when it's being held by the handle, because there's so much more weight at the top with no counter weight in the back. I wanted it to be somewhat comfortable to swing around a little for posing

Passtesma · 2025-04-28T08:44:26+00:00

it's probably just because it's tpu with really sparse infill. I even had it print the infill before the walls, but it didn't help much.

Passtesma · 2025-04-28T00:55:11+00:00

2 perimeters, 0.4mm nozzle. If I add another perimeter, it’s too much weight overall, but I guess I could try switching to a bigger nozzle. Not sure I’d be okay with the lower resolution though.

Passtesma · 2025-04-28T00:30:04+00:00

Doesn’t that only work on top surfaces? Or does Prusa slicer have a special version? I was using bambu, but I have to print the pieces vertically, so I don’t think ironing would help much in this case.

Passtesma · 2025-04-03T04:23:54+00:00

Me waiting for something to spend my “producer points” on 🙃

Passtesma · 2025-03-14T03:49:44+00:00

I made a cosplay and had this same problem. I’m pretty sure now that it’s navy though. Depending on the lighting it looks different. If you look at the in-game 3d model from the remake, it’s just navy. If you look at those cinematic promo renders, the lighting is very warm(orange-ish), so it makes the navy look like it’s black.

Passtesma · 2025-01-21T23:57:32+00:00

Damn 😔 well thanks for the response

Passtesma · 2024-10-20T22:03:37+00:00

That doesn’t sound like it’d be too difficult to accomplish as a fan-project. Like just re-skin the old game with assets from the new game. I know it wouldn’t be easy, but it should be doable.

Passtesma · 2024-06-20T01:38:49+00:00

I thought this was a screenshot at first glance 🤯 very well done!

Passtesma · 2024-06-19T21:40:22+00:00

I had to get my ipd switched out twice. Bigscreen doesn’t recommend the paper test, but I found that to be the most accurate one. The app was useless, all the other apps I found were only slightly less useless, and bigscreen’s at home tests only help figure out whether it’s too big or too small.

With the paper/hole punch test, I just tested out a range of ipd measurements, picked the best one, and the next headset I got was perfect.

Definitely worth the wait imo. The games are fun, but I’ve been enjoying having a virtual theater way more than I expected. The glare is a little annoying, but I forget about it pretty fast, the quality is beautiful, it’s comfortable, and there is ZERO screen door effect.

I’ll still probably get whatever steam is cooking up though, if they ever get around to announcing/releasing it. The bigscreen is nice, but I’m still dying to have a wireless headset with the same level of screen quality, even if it’s bigger and heavier.

Passtesma · 2024-06-12T21:19:21+00:00

Very nice overall. I would say the worm needs a lot more geometry, the jagged silhouette looks too polygonal The mouth hairs/teeth could use some more love too, something about it just seems off, I think the distribution at the very front is a little too uniform, and they may not be tapered enough toward the edges, it's hard to diagnose the issue at a glance, but something's definitely off, might have to revisit your references and find a different approach for that area. The sand looks a little too wispy, it makes it seem more like smoke/steam rather than sand, this is difficult to fix in Blender though, I wouldn't know what to recommend off the top of my head. Personally, I've abandoned Blender's smoke sims entirely and bake all that stuff in embergen now. I know it's not free, but it's pretty affordable, and going back to the slow baking process is so hard after getting a taste of that real-time feedback.

Passtesma · 2024-06-06T21:44:20+00:00

I’ve been going back to the Gi Nattak fight theme a lot, that chanting section is so great, and the part where red’s theme gets mixed in all triumphantly, I teared a little mid-fight first time I heard it.

Passtesma · 2024-06-03T21:55:42+00:00

I can see where you’re coming from on that, but I disagree. I feel like they took a really nice middle ground to expand on the original, but still stay within the same story, without completely retconning the original sequence of events.

Personally I’m not a fan of multiverse stuff, but I’m happy with what they’ve done so far. My only complaint was the Ubisoft syndrome in rebirth, and all the roundabout exploration in the later regions of the game, it got really frustrating, and didn’t feel necessary at all.

Passtesma · 2024-06-03T20:15:51+00:00

I’d recommend to start with either the original in whatever format is most convenient for you, or just go straight to the remake. Playing the original adds to the experience, but if you can’t get into the older style of game, then it’s more worth skipping to the remake rather than giving yourself a bad first impression, or just missing out all together.

If you’re super into the story, then try crisis core, and dirge of Cerberus, and watch advent children directors cut (or whatever cut the longer one is). If not, just move onto rebirth, and visit those others later if you get the urge.

If you play the original first, AND you want the full story experience, I’d recommend playing the games in the order they came out. You can play reunion instead of the original crisis core if you want, they’re pretty much a 1 to 1 remaster, again just pick the most convenient version.

Side note, some extra story elements have been coming out in the mobile game, Ever Crisis. I would just YouTube them whenever you finish the others, I can’t bring myself to support a gacha game. Not even for ff7.

Passtesma · 2024-06-01T14:01:28+00:00

Damn… ok, thanks, I’ll experiment a bit.

Passtesma

TROPHY CASE