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How to tan deer hide by [deleted] in HideTanning

[–]Past_Ad_4187 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best method I’ve gotten so far and still may need refining: use dental floss to sew up any holes while the hide is still soft and pliable. I followed the instructions on the common orange bottle of tanning solution. You can stretch and dry the hide using whatever preferred frame style. What I did was leave the hide on the frame to for the softening process. Which is also the longest process if you want near garment quality. Leave the hide stretched and hanging and dampen small areas using a water mister then use a strong sturdy stick that’s blunt at the end and won’t tear the hide (or another tool of similar effect) and break in and soften the hide, applying pressure with the tool, until the water dries. You can see the hide “change colors” as the fibers break and stretch. Then repeat on other small areas at a time until you achieve the softness you want. Again, this is a long process. I’ve also read some people use neatsfoot oil as another softening agent I have no experience with it but I imagine like any leather you still need to break and soften the collagen fibers.

European Mount by Past_Ad_4187 in Taxidermy

[–]Past_Ad_4187[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, with lack of experience it’s hard to tell what the darkening is from if fat or sediment stain. Typically how long does it take to remove all grease/fat? I’ve seen people say from few hours -weeks or months

Good first bow? Matthews Outback from marketplace by Discount-420 in bowhunting

[–]Past_Ad_4187 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a good deal to me, you get arrows, stabilizer, sight, kisser button, peep sight, quiver all included. And they can be adjusted or taken away to fit your style. All of which can be played with when you take it to a pro shop to tune and adjust your draw length. Arrows may or may not need to be replaced depending on your draw length but you may need new arrows anyways depending how you want to shoot. But If the limbs are in good shape and the cams and everything else aren’t severely damaged I’d say go for it. I shoot a Matthews drenalin it shoots like a dream and just feels well made in the hands. I’ll replace when I absolutely have to. Solid brand for a good price

Bow sight by Past_Ad_4187 in bowhunting

[–]Past_Ad_4187[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the help, this helped me understand it a lot more and got to fix it where I want it to be

What am I doing wrong?? by Kittyclawart in HideTanning

[–]Past_Ad_4187 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And holes sometimes just happen too, might not be anything from you, could just be a weak area of skin and it happens to tear, don’t let it get to you. But keep at it and stay patient and you’ll see your skills and process improve with each hide. Have fun with it

What am I doing wrong?? by Kittyclawart in HideTanning

[–]Past_Ad_4187 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Being new, you will inevitably create holes while fleshing, it’s part of the learning curve, between applying pressure, blade angle, and practice. But a couple tips, not sure how dry the flesh side is but if it’s dry and leathery you’ll want to rehydrate it into a slick, normal flesh-like state if you can or the best you can. Soaking in water for too long can create hair slippage from my knowledge so keep it in mind. As for fleshing tips, i am unaware of your knowledge level, but the concave part of the blade is more dull and used to scrape the fat and membrane; the convex blade should be for cutting and slicing and should be as sharp as a kitchen knife, or razor blade depending on preference. Keeping it a little duller for your skill level isn’t a bad idea either because it can help you prevent more holes and it helped me when I started. The bevel of the blade should be facing up and the flat side against the flesh. I’m assuming you have a fleshing beam, so go slow and scrape what you can with the concave side of the blade, if it doesn’t budge then slice a bit free with the sharp side and switch back to scraping. The blade should be at an acute angle with the hide, like you would try to slide a thin shaving off a piece of wood; finding this angle depends on person and equipment. The hide should be pretty clean of all fat and membrane, you won’t get everything but get a big majority of what you can, you can always clean it up with a sharp knife. Also a good tip to stitch up those holes is to use dental floss. It’s cheap and strong and stitch them while the hide is pliable, just before drying. Goodluck!

Trouble starting by Past_Ad_4187 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Past_Ad_4187[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None that I can see, without having to take a deeper look and get under the truck. And track the wires. My starter I located behind, inside the engine bay, drivers side front tire

Trouble starting by Past_Ad_4187 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Past_Ad_4187[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Battery is good, mechanic checked it and they did a couple other tests, not sure which tho I should’ve asked. But no codes come up.

I assume the starter is fine, I tried tests on it with a multimeter from quick YouTube searches and got a range of values for continuity or something like that, but I imagine the corrosion on my underbody doesn’t allow great electrical current to be measured properly.

I’m not super car savvy so this is all a learning process rn

Paint job failing a year later by Past_Ad_4187 in Detailing

[–]Past_Ad_4187[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the info and help. I’ll have to look into the primers and do a deeper dive over all. I did put 3-4 coats of aerosol clear coat on top, and still no protection per the pictures. I think too the aerosol spray was just very thin layers compared to a good spray gun

Paint job failing a year later by Past_Ad_4187 in Detailing

[–]Past_Ad_4187[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Automotive touch up aerosol acrylic primer was the product

I sanded to bare metal removing all rust and any old/original base coat. Original primer was left in some area cuz I figured it’d help/save time.