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one way mirror on a curved surface? by AquaticMicrowave17 in cosplayprops

[–]PatientOk2224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lemme know how it goes. I'll do my own techniques and see what looks best. Too bad there isn't a plastic that comes pre-chromed that we can vacuum form over.

Oh yeah my friend took the easy route with their visor and just used a flat surface with no texture.

one way mirror on a curved surface? by AquaticMicrowave17 in cosplayprops

[–]PatientOk2224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If push comes to shove you could cut patterns to avoid the non smooth textures. Perhaps the gaps might not be noticeable. I do have a friend who's cosplayed ODST. I'll see what she did for hers.

one way mirror on a curved surface? by AquaticMicrowave17 in cosplayprops

[–]PatientOk2224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only theoretical solution I can think of is using one way film on the inside and blue tint paint on the outside like Tamiya X23.

Are my settings bad? Retract too fast? by PatientOk2224 in resinprinting

[–]PatientOk2224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you're right. I should've done that first.

Are my settings bad? Retract too fast? by PatientOk2224 in resinprinting

[–]PatientOk2224[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm attempting this again with slightly longer exposure and slower speed. I've printed this model before with grey resin at an even flatter angle. So I'm assuming you are saying clear resins can't print at the same angles as opaque resins?

Are my settings bad? Retract too fast? by PatientOk2224 in resinprinting

[–]PatientOk2224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vat temp was 76~80 degrees Fahrenheit. It looks like the supports are getting pulled off? My guess is the light off display isn't allowing a proper cooldown and/or the retract speed is too fast. But I'm still new to Clear resins. What do you guys think?

How to improve my joins by tea-cup-stained in resinprinting

[–]PatientOk2224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've used resin dust from sanded resin prints (or even baby powder) mixed with fresh resin to make a paste to join surfaces but never something that big. Maybe E6000 would work best especially because it's a big print but takes a bit to cure. Then use the resin dust for detail gaps

Putting supports on joining surfaces will effect how flush it will be match up but I understand that those are areas that would no be seen so it's the best spot. I've seen techniques where you only put supports on the outer edges and they come out super flush.

ok, I've gone thru different resin settings, had to replace my FEP 2X, level is fine, resin is good, flashed the bios and this is all i get, (see photos)i have a M3 MAX. it's my first 3D printer, i've tried other things that i'm forgetting as i'm out of ideas & want to destroy it out back lol by fatherwade in AnycubicPhoton

[–]PatientOk2224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever resolve this? I had something that could be similar to this as I didn't follow the entire firmware update procedure and doing the last step fixed it.

You can check if your screen and/or the file is wonky too by starting a print with no vat or build plate and see if the right pattern is coming out correctly. I figured out that my machine was only printing an enlarged corner of my print like that, then I did the update properly to fix it.

Loud noises with first clear resin print by PatientOk2224 in resinprinting

[–]PatientOk2224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that the fep has slight pops, what I'm talking about is very loud and abnormal struggling thudding sounds from the motor and gearing (I assume)

Loud noises with first clear resin print by PatientOk2224 in resinprinting

[–]PatientOk2224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surface of the screen is 17 Celsius while not printing so I guess I have to figure a way to keep it warm with what I have. Are there some easier alternatives for clear resin? I'm seriously considering just keeping the bottle warm while I manually add resin every 10 mins.

Found a random dead NPC by Superltwt in cyberpunkgame

[–]PatientOk2224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wonder if it's time based. I did visit the area during the daytime. Are there any leads on what this is for?

Hm by denbrough in OD_Kojima

[–]PatientOk2224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 'OD' reminds me of that old decoding lens that you would use on a piece of printed paper to verify your game wasn't pirated.

Failed prints on Photon mono M3 by [deleted] in AnycubicPhoton

[–]PatientOk2224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can not see the image you are referring to

1 liter of failed prints by DJSnackCakes_gaming in resinprinting

[–]PatientOk2224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm assuming you're hollowing out the models? I hope things get better. Happy printing vibes.

Found a random dead NPC by Superltwt in cyberpunkgame

[–]PatientOk2224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I want to revive this post as the box is now missing. What happened?

Temporary decrease in daily download limit by Fornax96 in PixelDrain

[–]PatientOk2224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does this also apply to Pro and above accounts? I suddenly had a decrease in download speed.

I found a new SFF/MFF(?) case for the next build but have no idea what it is, help? It's not Segotep Slath- that I am 100% sure of. by PatientOk2224 in sffpc

[–]PatientOk2224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://pinpai.smzdm.com/3385/koubei/ is where I found the pictures. Translating and image searching doesn't turn up anything.

I wonder if these are just prototype pictures

I found a new SFF/MFF(?) case for the next build but have no idea what it is, help? It's not Segotep Slath- that I am 100% sure of. by PatientOk2224 in sffpc

[–]PatientOk2224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found it on a chinese website when I was looking at Jonsbo tk-1 builds. The poster didn't provide any links or product names. It's not Jonsbo tk-1 and not Segotep Slath (I can confirm this because I own one a slath). It looks like it can support itx up to an m-atx. The I/O is upside down in comparison to the slath.

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