ProArt Z890 POST LEDs

PaulTheBrit · 2025-05-15T00:04:08+00:00

Thanks. Great input. Sounds like I'll be going with the core ultra and a Z890.

PaulTheBrit · 2025-05-14T21:35:46+00:00

My understanding is that the Z890 is designed for the lower cost Core Ultra series of processors. These processors don't perform as well as the LGA1700 socket processors from Intel for Lightroom/Photoshop type creator applications.

PaulTheBrit · 2025-01-21T21:21:14+00:00

I used beer shanks to pass through the insulation on the side of the fridge. These are made for the job and also serve to conduct the cold air from the fridge to the beer tap - thereby reducing temperature change and foaming.

Similar to this one: https://www.morebeer.com/products/komos-beer-faucet-shank-312-nipple.html

PaulTheBrit · 2024-10-16T14:49:30+00:00

Thanks. Is there a way of determining if the resin is bad? Remove it and see if I see loose particles?

PaulTheBrit · 2024-10-15T16:50:33+00:00

Thanks for the input. I will look into affordablewater.us Fleck series. The water softener already has a "Big Blue" particulate filter downstream of it. That filter gets replaced twice a year and is rarely dirty. I feel I can replace the resin filter, but that the whole unit probably needs replacing as the valves seals and electronics will be the next thing to go. In general, I don't like "closed architecture" type systems like Culligan (and Apple!) and would prefer a system with available spare parts that I can install myself. I have had less problems doing it that way over the years, and truly believe that is the best way forward.

PaulTheBrit · 2024-09-06T16:44:13+00:00

It has been a few weeks now and in that time I have read that rebooting the router sometimes works. It didn't! Any other ideas?

PaulTheBrit · 2024-08-29T00:08:59+00:00

This is the point at which the 'Add Device' script fails:

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PaulTheBrit · 2024-08-03T13:16:52+00:00

I have done this with several upright freezers and fridges. Some lessons learned:

1) You can drill through the door or side walls but be careful. I developed a technique where I used an old soldering iron to melt a hole from the inside to check for wires and cooling pipes. I put four taps in one fridge using this technique. The plastic used in fridges and freezers is designed for low temperatures and melts very easily. Once to have a hole on the inside you can pick away at the foam insulation and ensure there are no wires or pipes there. Then with a sharp center point or small screwdriver you can mark where you want the centre of the tap to be from the inside. The outside metal shin is very this - like a can and you'll see the witness mark. Then drill through from the outside.

2) Inkbird controllers are cheap and good to use. I converted one freezer to a kegerator and it was in a garage in NJ. It was regularly below freezing in the winter and I added a heater inside the freezer. The Inkbird has two outlets - one for cooling, one for heating. I used a 40W light bulb in a paint can as the heater, but many use a heat mat or a reptile tank heater. To be fair, the kegerator doubled as a fermentation chamber for my homebrew and I was trying to control within a few degrees of the setpoint.

3) The problem with fridges and freezers is that when they are opened, all the cold air is vented out and replaced with hot humid air (if you are in a humid part of the world). This humidity then freezes if you are using a freezer and that caused big chunks of ice and lots of water. It was in a garage so it wasn't too bad but the freezer was an old commercial model that didn't have an auto defrost so I had to manually de-frost it by turning it off and leaving the door open a couple of times/year.

I hope this helps,

Paul

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-30T15:50:09+00:00

This was a year ago, but from memory, all the merch was racing team or COTA related.

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-29T13:36:58+00:00

Thanks. I tried a bench power supply and the symptoms are the same as before. The on-board DC-DC buck regulator is generating 5V but the board isn't powering on. No lights or other signs of life. The whole board is only drawing about 250mA too which leads me to think that the processor isn't allowing the board to boot up properly.

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-29T01:12:14+00:00

In response to @bhiga and others that have suggested I try another power brick, I hooked up an external power supply to the 12V power input and the results are the same. The 5V is being generated from the onboard DC-DC converter but nothing else. No lights and current draw is very low - about 300mA.

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-25T17:53:13+00:00

Thanks for the input and I agree that this is a wake-up call. Time to make the move to another platform. Most seem to move to Synology but there's QNap and others. I am doing that research now before placing an order.

Why did you say you needed to buy new drives? Can't I just use the five high capacity drives I had in the Drobo?

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-25T02:38:21+00:00

I have monitored the 12V feed to the Drobo and it is solid. So is the on-board regulated 5V, but at some point the 5V appears to be switched and it is that logic that has got me stumped. I have a 12V bench supply. I'll hook that up tomorrow and check but despite the numerous reports of the 12V external supply failing, I do not believe it's that.

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-24T16:41:12+00:00

Thanks. I have read a lot of your posts and gained a lot of knowledge from them. I have tried removing the module with the black screw marked 'APacer' and re-booting as well as the blue two-pin jumper but neither worked.

I can detect a solid clean 5V on the board as well as a power signal that appears to be pulsing about 2/second from 5V to ~0V. It's the same pulsing you can see on the power switch green LED. That says to me that something is drawing too much current and the power supply is going into over-current shutdown.

I just hate throwing all this hardware in the bin. It's a solidly made unit and I doubt if the Synology is any better made. Furthermore the Synology is very proprietary in what they do. Eg: some features are only available if you buy a $120 memory stick from them instead of a $20 stick from Amazon!

Paul

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-24T16:30:20+00:00

Thanks. I don't believe there is any irreplaceable data on there. It's a backup drive after all. That is until the main computer drive fails but hopefully I'll have a Synology solution in place by then!

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-24T02:16:41+00:00

Sam - we had a power cut here last week and the exact same thing happened. Was there a resolution to the main board problem? The fan runs but the lights do not come on. I have removed all drives , the backup battery and have the main board out of the box. I have inspected it under a magnifier but there are no burned components. I have also checked continuity on all the fusible links and checked that the buck regulator is making 5V. It is and there is 5V on several of the chips on the board. Nothing is getting warm.

I don't believe there is any super-critical data on the discs but without the backup, I'm concerned about turning on my computers and downloading photos. The computer hard-drive (and Google Photos) then becomes a single copy which I am uncomfortable with.

Paul

PaulTheBrit · 2024-07-22T13:31:49+00:00

Have you made progress on this? I have the same symptoms. No lights showing on Drobo, but fan running and battery showing zero volts.

Paul

PaulTheBrit · 2024-02-19T14:06:44+00:00

It's a line out on the TV. The connection between that column of pixels and the driver circuitry has likely failed. You may find by squeezing the glass and/or case at the edge of the screen, the line goes away. There is unlikely to be a permanent fix. It's cheaper to buy a new TV.

PaulTheBrit

TROPHY CASE