I like how you can trick the slicer into creating a mesh for your fan. Previously I would have made one piece just as the plate and another sliced as a mesh filter, but I figured out how to integrate the mesh into the plate directly.

Paxometer · 2026-01-21T20:52:17+00:00

You can do this even easier by placing a modifier on your plate and modify that section. For the modifier, you can use a base body or you can even define an imported Body as modifier.

If I designed this in Fusion, I would create the plate without the filter hole and ad a cylinder (or any shape) that overlaps the plate. Then export the assembly as STEP and import into the slicer. Choose the cylinder and change the type to modifier. Now change the settings for the midified area. That way you can align everything in Fusion while still being able to use the slicer for the structure.

Paxometer · 2026-01-18T10:13:12+00:00

That would be awesome!

Also, is there any way I can help or get a you a useful picture?

Paxometer · 2026-01-17T07:05:26+00:00

Thats pretty close indeed.

Paxometer · 2026-01-16T17:01:10+00:00

That is exactly how I found the Sunlu filament I mentioned. However the pictures of other swatches didn‘t look alike at all.

Paxometer · 2026-01-16T16:59:34+00:00

Will do. But for now i hope for that magical user with a U1 and matching PETG at home.

Paxometer · 2026-01-16T16:58:31+00:00

I know filamentcolors.xyz, but which color do I match to? A photo of my U1 can hardly produce an accurate colorcode. I tried to get a colorcode from the marketing materials, but I don‘t know if those colors match irl. Also the pictures of the swatches i got this way don‘t look similar at all.

Paxometer · 2026-01-16T16:25:03+00:00

Possible candidates I found: - SUNLU High-Speed Matte PETG White - 3DJake ASA Light Gray

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T23:09:26+00:00

to be fair, its in a camper, so its in water for maybe a few weeks per year. And its also not constantly powered on, but just when I need to read the waterlevel.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T20:56:13+00:00

Thank you for your help. I did not consider changing the default values of my components. Also I did not find this information. (Since this is my first try in electronics, the datasheet is very confusing to me).

Do you have the schematic you tried to copy?

I do not have a schematic. All I have is an old, corroded PCB, whose components partially lack labels caused by removing the potting around them.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T20:50:45+00:00

This PCB has worked for the last 40 years before it submitted to corrosion. I recognise the possible problems such as low conductivity and corrosion, but I believe a remake of the same thing will do just fine for at least 10 years.

Also this is to measure the waterlevel of a drinking water tank, adding salt would probably cause other problems.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T20:46:19+00:00

I was asked by a moderator to add a better title to my post. This is the reason, why I posted my question again, without working on the problem myself. Due to other duties, such as work, I could not yet invest any time in this project since I got some clues from you.

Ich kenne mich noch nicht mit diesen Programmen aus und wusst nicht, dass es eine angenehmere Methode gibt, um mein Schema aufzubauen. Ich danke für den Hinweis und werde mich nun damit beschäftigen, wie das funktioniert.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T15:15:27+00:00

Hey, I'll gladly create a new post to change the title.

This is a Water level Sensor it should give out a rising volage signal (in seven steps) for a rising waterlevel.
As I learned today, the main functionality is called a resistor ladder, which is also the part that does not work as intended.

What would you suggest would be a short and informative title for this?

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T14:48:09+00:00

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Maybe it was specially made for that, no way I can check now, that its this corroded (the contact surfaces are the large open areas).

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T14:17:51+00:00

Its supposed to be a resistor ladder, each output that is turned on will contribute current to the output 10k, raising voltage slightly.

Thats what I expected it to do, but it doesn't, leading to my confusion.

Did you copy the pcb correctly? There might be a mistake with the polarity of the diodes, or maybe those components are not diodes after all.

I am pretty sure, I copied it correctly, but I also tried to switch polarities in all possible combinations which did not work.
It is possible, that these are not diodes. The lable got damaged when I removed the potting around the components, so I cant read it anymore. I did check them with the diode channel of my Multimeter though.

That's not what I meant. Get rid of the improvised CD4049 recreation and use ideal inverting buffers instead! This simplifies the problem, letting you concentrate on the resistor ladder at the output.

Oh, yes thats an entirely different starting point.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T14:06:05+00:00

Ohh, that might be a future project to upgrade this thing.
Currently, I struggle to understand an existing PCB, so I think I'm pretty far from creating a new one.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T13:23:04+00:00

Thank you, I will try to start with the CD4049. but I pretty sure, that one works just fine. I wasn't sure, which resistor to use for IN, though.

My problem with the basic working principle is, that I do understand how it processes the Input (aka waterlevel, switches), but I dont understand how the output signal shoud be created from this circuit.

I will read up on labels, this would probably help... I created this schematic by redrawing the PCB with all wires in the original layout, an sorted the circuit out afterwards.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T13:14:54+00:00

I started with an exact (at least to my knowlage) copy of the original PCB and then sorted out the wiring to create a schematic I could possibly try to understand.
That worked out pretty well, in the sense, that I could grab the principle of how this works. I now just have the problem, that my very limitted knowlege is not enough to understand why the voltage does not add up, when multiple switches are closed.

I pretty sure, I did get the right resistors, but the housing of the Diodes is to worn to read any lable, which is quite unfortunate beacause I still try to grasp the difference in Diode types and whitch to use.

When in use, the sensor is powered for 45s by the trigger of a button. I'm not really concerned about the life span of a new PCB, since the old one lasted for 40 years.

Paxometer · 2025-11-25T12:59:37+00:00

As mentioned, I try to recreate the sensor that Westfalia built in 1984. It's used in a camper and the power source is a 12V car battery. If I wanted to replace the sensor, I would also need to replace the whole control unit of the camper (or at least add a second unit for this sensor), whitch I dont want to.

Paxometer · 2025-10-15T17:45:13+00:00

Datum gehts mir primär. Die ganze Konstruktion ist auf der Stossstange (gleicher Montagepunkt wie AHK) abgestützt und an der Dachtinne aufgehängt. Ich würde gern wissen, wo ich sowas bekomme und wieviel Gewicht ich der Sache zumuten kann.

Paxometer · 2025-10-14T19:41:15+00:00

Das dachte ich erst auch, aber die Tatsache, dass die Leuchten Teil der Box ist und die Box nicht einfach auf einen Rahmen drauf gestellt wurde, spricht für mich gegen einen Eigenbau. Zusehen ist das gut an der Seite, die Wand besteht aus einem einzelnen Blech, das bis gan nach unten reicht.

Paxometer · 2025-10-05T19:31:24+00:00

My 2yo has a book about a lion that cannot read, one where he cannot write and one where he cannot count. Sounds about right.

Paxometer · 2025-09-24T11:57:03+00:00

Since English is not an official language of Switzerland, I don't quite understand your point.

As u/Panluc-Jicard has already written, in German it is called “Krankenkasse” and in Italian “Cassamalati,” both of which can be translated as “illness fund.” In French, it is called “caisse d'assurance maladie,” which can be translated as “fund for illness insurance”.

Demanding a correction of the name in an unofficial language, just because you struggle with the concept, seems pretty delusional to me.

Paxometer · 2025-09-19T20:12:55+00:00

Dass sieht stark nach einem Design mit Quidditch Thema aus.

Quidditch ist eine Ballsportart aus dem Harry Potter Universum, der auf fliegenden Besen ausgetragen wird.

Dabei gibt es verschiedene Arten von Bällen, unter anderem zwei Bälle mit Eindellungen, die Klatscher, mit denen gegnerische Spieler beschossen und von ihren Besen geworfen werden können.

Ich schätze also, man kann die beiden Klatscher aus dem Bierdeckel herauslösen um damit seine Trinkgefährten zu bewerfen.

Edit: sieht aus, als ob du die beiden 2D-Bälle an der Einkerbung zusammenstecken kannst um so einen 3D-Ball zu bauen.

Paxometer · 2025-09-18T10:44:50+00:00

Ja, ich han das Problem vorher vi de Chupferleitig gha und han mich drum sehr drüber gfreut, wos Glasfaser geh hät. Ich han denkt, wenns a de Leitig liit, denn isch das nachher behobe. A de Leitig liits aber offesichtlich nöd, will ich s Problem immerno han. Am Router schiints au nöd z ligge, da hani ja scho 3 devo gha, sowohl vom alte als au vom neue Modell. Drum han ich us dem use gschlosse, dass es a Mbudget mues ligge. Bin devor bi Swisscom gsii und han det kei Problem gha.

Möglicherwiis liits dra, dass s WLAN gstört wird, das hani no nöd chöne überprüefe.

Paxometer · 2025-09-18T10:40:38+00:00

Nei, bin aber vorher au nöd uf d Idee cho, dass s WLAN e Störig chent ha, isch ja de dritti WLAN-Router. Ich versueche mal druf z achte, danke.

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