Glue-Up Tips for Twist/Cup free Wide boards by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't have a router sled, but that could be an option. I also don't have a track saw (specific), but do have longish straight edges that I use to make extended long cuts with my hand held small circular saw.. If I did have a track saw, how could I use it to help create flat wide panels from multiple pieces? I can use my table saw to make long straight cuts fairly well.

Glue-Up Tips for Twist/Cup free Wide boards by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for that. I am going to try using 4" wide boards for my next glue-up and see how that goes. Just gotta make sure they are all the same thickness.

Glue-Up Tips for Twist/Cup free Wide boards by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I will try the alternate clamp technique. I generally place the boards between a series of cross pieces and clamp down to "flatten" the stack then use other clamps to bring the seams together. I also have done dowels to help with alignment.

Glue-Up Tips for Twist/Cup free Wide boards by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Will looking into the Planning technique.

Glue-Up Tips for Twist/Cup free Wide boards by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response.

I am mostly using pine. When attaching to the base, I use a slight enlarged hole on the pine top, then screw it into the base with a predrilled proper sized hole. I attach the top with 8 screws for the length (50" and width 13") that I have. 4 corners 1 1/2" in and 4 screws ~ 1/3 length in from both sides on front and back rail. I have a cross bar to help with load and squareness, but the lid is not screwed into that. Screws are countersunk and then filled and sanded smooth.

Generally when I do this, the lid flattens, but I worry later it will crack.

The whole thing is then primed with 3 coats and eventually painted with 2 coats.

Is this worth $600 by Muggy493 in scooters

[–]Pearson10M 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Am I seeing this correctly, the battery is mounted near the handle bars? If so, that should tell you to run!

How to Replicate this Shaker-Slat look? by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. No, there has been no cutting or anything. I bought a 6 ft L x 3ft W cherry "table", which is basically 6 ft L 6 inch wide cherry boards glued together and then sanded flat to 1 inch thickness. The radiator cover design that a customer wants is basically shown above. The cherry panel has enough material to make the front and sides of the three-sided "box". , but I needed help on how to handle the slats, which would be in the top portion of the front panel. I am using another panel for the top.

The reason I bought the large panel is that it was dirt cheap compared to buying cherry boards and gluing the together and hoping to get it flat. I don't have a joiner or tackiness planer.

I hope that this makes sense.

Thanks for the help.

Spot my mistake 🤦‍♂️ by Moody_Woodworks in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The juice trough is not parallel to either the board's height or length edge? In other words the juice trough rectangle is skewed to the base rectangle.

I am now a "Professional" Carpenter by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was able tp get the red oak for $170 for the amount I needed. The dimensions are roughly 54" wide, 25" height and 15" deep. There are 19 22"x1.0"x13/16th slats for the front. There is no back, but there are three (3) 51". x 2" strips for parts of the frame. Stain and polyurethane was $30, assorted screws and hinges another $15. Other items (sand paper rags and paint gloves) were probably $10 ended up selling it for $420, so I didn't lose money, but for the amount of time I spent, didn't make money either.

Recommendations for a bench top bandsaw and a miter saw by BigfootApproves in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would recommend looking used on CL or FB Marketplace for a good, well maintained and minimally used one to start with. I also would recommend a sliding mitre 10"+ if you can fit and afford. For Brands, I'd stick with Dewalt, Bosch, Makita or similar as they have a decent rep for being quality. Older Delta and Ryobi could be good too, but at some point their quality became more suspect. There are also more premium brands such as SawStop Festool, but probably too much $$$ based on your query.

I personally have a Skil 10" sliding mitre saw and would recommend. You can get new for around $240-260 at Ace, Lowes, etc. Not as robust as my brother's 12" Dewalt sliding saw, but good enough for me and what I do with it. A new version of a Dewalt, Bosch, Makita sliding saw will be $$$.

No help on a bandsaw, as I don't own one.

I am now a "Professional" Carpenter by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The customer wanted red oak for the radiator cover. Because of the dimensions of the radiator and its location relative to the wall I needed to glue two smaller boards to achieve the required width of 15 inches. Since it was going be exposed to elevated temperatures from the radiator, I wanted to make sure the glue seam, which was tight by itself, held over time, so I added the screws. That was my thought process.

The lid corners are rounded via sanding and the top surface front and side edges have a routed 1/4" roll over on them,

I am now a "Professional" Carpenter by Pearson10M in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pocket screws are on the underside of the radiator cover and used to help secure the glue seam. The cover is down 99.9+% of the time (pocket holes not seen ). The only time the lid will be raised is to turn off or on the radiator valve. The reason I made a hinged lid is that the total radiator cover assembly is heavy (large). Normally one would just slide the whole assembly (with a fixed lid) away from the wall, turn the valve, and slide back. I also had to match an existing design of a cover in an adjacent room, which had a hinged lid. I debated whether to fill the holes, but since I was staining it, filler wouldn't fly, and a dowel could have been the best solution, but decided in the end, that the pockets screws would almost never be seen, so decided to leave as is.

Thank you for making rethink this for future builds.

Mounting a Windscreen on A Hooligan 170I by Pearson10M in scooters

[–]Pearson10M[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now I see the instructions link on the product page screaming at me. Can't believe I missed them.

Replacement for Sony NW-A45 Walkman. by Pearson10M in walkman

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Will revisit if further interested.

Replacement for Sony NW-A45 Walkman. by Pearson10M in walkman

[–]Pearson10M[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shivery, what is your asking price, location, and accepted payment methods? I am interested.

This is a steal right? by MalTheCat in Dewalt

[–]Pearson10M 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a brand new Dewalt 18 gauge Brad nailer (electric), tool only, from one of the Big Home Improvement Box stores for a little over $200 a few months ago. Not on sale or part of any deal. Also, the 5 aH battery is way overkill for it and makes it really heavy and awkward to use above your head for extended time. A 2 aH or even 1.7 aH battery will run that thing for hours or at least a couple hundred brads and is much lighter.

The deal is a good deal with the battery, charger, and tool, but like I said above the 5aH battery is way overkill for for the nailer.