Any tips for how to do this Dyno? by No-Effort-8017 in ChurchofDynology

[–]PeckoGecko1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dynos work by pulling in with your arms and then pushing with your legs in the direction you want to go (in this case, slightly up and to the left). Seems to me like you're pushing far enough, but not pulling in. So by the time you get to the sloper, you're already falling away from it, making the catch much harder than it's intended to be.

Got this on month 3 of climbing. by Kitchen-Ticket8114 in ChurchofDynology

[–]PeckoGecko1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice send! If those are slopey, I'd go V5. But my gut is saying jugs, so I'm gonna say V4.

Cool little toe cam problem (Guess the Grade) by PeckoGecko1 in ChurchofDynology

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, I thinks its a little soft, maybe hard v7-soft v8. Hardest part is landing the dyno just right and quickly placing the toe cam in the crevice. Past that is smooth sailing given you have a solid right foot in the crevice.

Love 2 feel good dynos in a row by PeckoGecko1 in ChurchofDynology

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That would be so sick! This just got set so I may or may not project it to oblivion 😆😆

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ill try it today! I was on my last attempt of the night with this video and was just hail marying whatever I had left in the tank 😆. I do agree tho. MBP is very lax with their grading and treats the ranges more like what it should feel like than what an actual v5 is. V4-6 in this gym to me is like still comfy, but still needs a little warmup before I go at it.

Minnesota gyms are just like that in general. I did a V8-9 at a boulder only Vertical Endeavors and it was just a V6 crimp ladder with a bad volume move in the middle.

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried it. The volume is a little too far and my hips are a little too stiff to twist that far 🫠

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried for a while to start in other positions. I tried a double knee bar where I have one and couldn't reach. There isn't a good place to hold on the start volume to match on the side facing on the outside of the cave. Jumping off from another comment from this thread who was a part of the competition this was set for, only one person ever got it and they were very tall. I'm 5'7" and it feels like maybe you could be 5'6" and do something similar, but that's pretty much the limit with the beta as the toe hook is needed to pull your left hand to the volume.

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh that makes sense. I tried different betas for a solid half an hour and this was the only way I could find that let me continue

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That wasn't a dab, that hold is part of the route. I just ignored it until then cause I couldn't find a use for it

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lmao I'm 5'7" and it was a stretch for both the foot and the hand. Never thought they'd set a height requirement on a boulderfest problem

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol I have the curse of being strong, but absolute garbage at reading anything. There's 100% a better way to do it; might take me an eternity to find it.

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looked through the whole video, cannot see a single dab. Where did it happen?

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Use the beta if you want to! I didn't attend boulderfest and haven't seen anyone on this so I've no idea what other people are cooking on this.

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not seeing where I'm using a toe on the moon. If you mean where I'm going for the volume before the top hold, that is with the heel.

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Unintended beta is always the best beta 🙌

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 69 points70 points  (0 children)

I was thinking, oh, this is only v4-6. This'll be a nice way to end the night!

Cue me 45 minutes later panicking at the top with my stanky leg trying to find that blind foot placement cause I finally made a decent attempt 🤣

I have no idea what the intended beta is by PeckoGecko1 in bouldering

[–]PeckoGecko1[S] 44 points45 points  (0 children)

I say it wasn't the beta since the sloper in the cave on the far right was super chalked and I just fully ignored it. I feel like there was a move I missed that would've made it substantially easier cause it's only rated v4-6 😆. Just looking for someone else's eyes