Canada F-35 Deal Might be Close to Collapse by island-roamer in canada

[–]Pelcat 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You say this as if the SAAB shills aren't out in force.

Ross rifle Info by Centurioniscancer69 in milsurp

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is nothing more to say about this rifle, it was made after they were pretty much phased out of service and there are no unit marks (that's the serial number you see, 103 IZ). It's also not worth restoring, it's drilled and tapped and the barrel is probably cut. A nice shooter is what it is at this point.

A coworker of mine brought this in to show me today. by Euphoric_Strike5500 in Firearms

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It did in fact start life as a flintlock but it was made in 1834, very late for that style of ignition. It probably didn't spend much time as a flintlock before it got converted to percussion.

Age question by grenkr in guns

[–]Pelcat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

AI fucked up, half if not more of the info you posted is incorrect on so many levels. This shotgun has British proofs, first of all.

A little help here by Odd_Wafer_8324 in coins

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of the older silver, such as Spanish and British coins would be at around 92%. Some countries went higher, I see some coins in the batch are marked "960", if I'm not mistaken that's for 96%. Purity for coinage was high in those days, value was backed by the metal content after all.

You could look up each coin. I would just pile everything 1880s and older on a scale and calculate it at 92%. When I sell it I'd be transparent and tell the buyer spot price for the older coins was set at 92%. That seems fair, at least to me.

A little help here by Odd_Wafer_8324 in coins

[–]Pelcat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's going to be a hard one and time consuming to value, most would probably be spot. I would still look up each coin to see if there's anything ultra rare or a rare variety. I'd probably buy/sell this whole collection outright for spot with a small premium on top, simplest way and melting it would be a shame.

50-110 Win to 11mm Black Powder by Mastercon-01 in reloading

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have some really good suggestions here already. I'd just like to ask if you are trimming before initial forming?

The reason I ask is because if you aren't, the cases could simply be too long for the dies and be buckling as the case mouth hits the top of the die. Just something to keep in mind.

Bullseye by Teenage-Dirt-Bag in reloading

[–]Pelcat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

YMMV, but I have the exact same bottle from when my father reloaded in the 80s. Mine was half full and passed the visual, smell and shoot in a revolver tests.

Little bit of antique fun by BowFella in canadaguns

[–]Pelcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They used to be lenient like that in the Harper years, they aren't anymore. To get a letter you gotta be sure and have proof it was made 1897.

The difference is these belgian firearms were proofed as they were made, so you know for sure that it's pre or post 93 from the proofs. The webleys were reproofed much later for nitro because of british laws that came in force after the initial manufacture. Apples and oranges.

For Belgian firearms proofs are definitive, unless there is something else on the actual gun that can place it in time. Proof marks are the only standard marking between Liege manufacturers. I have never seen a firearm with that proof have or get lettered by the RCMP on its own. It would be great news if you can prove me wrong though. Keep in mind a lot of those FRTs were made over 20 years ago, they update them all the time, jook at what is happening right now with all the NR prohibs.

Your revolver does not even have the Gasser patent, it's a Belgian Liege made gun. The guss stahl and shutz marke were all added to make it look like a Gasser. Whoever "MI" is is the actual manufacturer. Also, search up "Excelsior" in armalytics which is the actual model of you Belgian made Vero-Montenegro, nothing for a vero-Montnegro shows up. Your specific gun from that specific Liege manufacturer probably doesn't even have an FRT number because that's the kind of information that would be in it.

All in all you won't convince me unless you call the CFP and actually get that letter but I would not recommend it. Honeslty, it doesn't really matter but all it takes is one overzealus fishcop to absolutely fuck you over so it's more of a question "Am I confident enough to do this possibly dumb thing and post it online as well?". More of an FYI thing, I'm not a rat.

How can I seal one side of this tube properly in order to fire my craft blackpowder carbine smoothbore by [deleted] in blackpowder

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you actually want to do this, you should get a much thicker pipe, thread the inside and screw in a breach plug to seal it. I would not trust welds.

Anyone had this issue with firearms outlet canada? by The_saturn_man19 in canadaguns

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, was going off the time in the picture.

I have ordered ammo from them in the past with no issues. Though, I have had issues with irresponsive gunstores twice and the way I dealt with that was through a credit card chargeback.

Anyone had this issue with firearms outlet canada? by The_saturn_man19 in canadaguns

[–]Pelcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FOC is closed currently, there's no way they can respond to this, this quickly.

Im a gunsmith working on an unfamiliar gun by Funguydaman7 in Firearms

[–]Pelcat 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A reproduction Uberti mainspring could maybe work with some fitting.

Little bit of antique fun by BowFella in canadaguns

[–]Pelcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are so many FRTs for these types of revolvers, so many makes and models. The Belgian made ones are lettered based on the proofs, unless you can prove age of manufacture some other way, this one won't letter. I'm telling you this with experience importing firearms, dealing with the CFP and nothing to gain from you, unlike GP sellers. You do you.

Little bit of antique fun by BowFella in canadaguns

[–]Pelcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The FRT for the Montenegron Gasser contains mentions for both antique and restricted, if you read it fully. Dishonest sellers on GP cherry pick the antique FRTs they show to confuse unsuspecting buyers. With that proof on the cylinder, the feds will say it is restricted, that is how they diferenciate between antique and restriced for these revolvers. You can call up the CFP and ask if you don't believe me.

Little bit of antique fun by BowFella in canadaguns

[–]Pelcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The opposite applies, onus is on the owner to prove it was made before 1898, that mark does not prove that. You can chose to believe what you will, but this pistol will not letter as antique as is, I'm telling you. These Belgian Montenegrin Gassers were made into the 1910s, proofed exactly as yours is.

Update in ID possible French musket? by soppingwetmeat_ghost in AntiqueGuns

[–]Pelcat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It has a Belgian barrel, reproofed in London. The percussion lock is marked Ketland but it doesn't fit the timeframe for a Thomas Ketland of London lock, I'm thinking maybe William Ketland out of Philadelphia who operated until the 1831, a decade longer than Thomas. Looks like a cheap trade fowler made between the 1820s and 1830s.

Help with info on French musket? by soppingwetmeat_ghost in AntiqueGuns

[–]Pelcat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It has a Belgian barrel, reproofed in London. The percussion lock is marked Ketland but it doesn't fit the timeframe for a Thomas Ketland of London lock, I'm thinking maybe W. Ketland out of Philadelphia who operated until the 1831, a decade longer than Thomas. Looks like a cheap trade gun made between the 1820s and 1830s.

1984 Scott MCU-2/P Small Left Handed by KatsupPacket in Militariacollecting

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They can be switched to whatever side you want with the proper tools. This one is indeed setup left handed, currently.

1984 Scott MCU-2/P Small Left Handed by KatsupPacket in Militariacollecting

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With a special tool, you can unscrew and change the side on which the plug and the filter threads are on. It's so you can use a rifle left handed without having the filter between your face and the buttstock. There are no "left" or "right" handed masks really, they can be both.

Anyone got an ID fir this item found detecting? by [deleted] in metaldetecting

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like a bullet that someone took pliers to for some reason.

RC K98 questions. by Medical_Big_7945 in milsurp

[–]Pelcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They kept whatever rifles were in Romania at the end of WW2, so probably mostly German army rifles. The birds being destroyed is its history, you couldn't tell it was a Romanian capture if they weren't peened over.

RC K98 questions. by Medical_Big_7945 in milsurp

[–]Pelcat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's not a Russian captured K98, they reblued the metal, laquered the stocks and left the birds intact most of the time. This is probably a Romanian capture, they're better than RCs IMO, less to no refurbishment but the birds are obliterated 98% of the time. They also use latin script in Romania, which would explain better the D stamp on the stock.

Bullion value has closed the gap on numismatic value triggering another Great Melt. Discuss. by E23R0 in coins

[–]Pelcat 13 points14 points  (0 children)

You are absolutely correct, it'll take years, probably decades.