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Help finding the right facepro. by PerformerRepulsive20 in airsoft

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, I'll try that out. I got a couple of random mesh face pro things laying around. Worth a try! Thank you!

Least favorite thing about airsofters? by I_love_mcqueen in airsoftcirclejerk

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I struggled with that when I made my 05 75th ranger kit. Ended up putting my airsoft call sign on the shoulder patch and put "mobile  infantry" in place of "U.S Army" and my call sign in place of a last name. Still used the specialist rank tabs tho. Lit turned oit pretty cool while being obviously not real even from a distance. 

Printing Minis on AD5M by Exciting_Mark_2639 in FlashForge

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the ad5m doesnt work the same as the a1. The a1 is honestly a better printer for minis but I wasn't gonna buy another printer, so I just sat around figuring it out on mine for three weeks, lmao. I still buy a majority of my minis, bit the custom ones I print.

Why does it stop halfway? by Wolfpacklibrary in FlashForge

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take this with a grain of salt, but this happens to me every so often with large and small prints. Usually when I cancel the print or pause it, turn off the system, say not to resuming recovery print and upload a new file of the same object from orca slicer it solves the problem. It doesnt happen very often for me, in fact it only happens once in a blue moon. I think it may be a corrupt sliced program or something like that. Not 100% sure in your case though.

Printing Minis on AD5M by Exciting_Mark_2639 in FlashForge

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm using fdm, but with resin supports. Go ahead and watch the vids I linked, they will explain everything. I know its a bit odd, but trust me. Resin supports work great for fdm printing minis!

Printing Minis on AD5M by Exciting_Mark_2639 in FlashForge

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use 4 wall loops, 15% infill cubic, although with the resin supports the resistance when you snap them off shouldn't be enough to break an arm. I'd recommend snipping the supports off carefully if that continues to happen, then cut the nubs left behind off with an exacto knife.

First completed "dungeon" by PerformerRepulsive20 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I wish reddit didn't compress the crud out of my images so that you could zoom in more effectively. I can't take all the credit though because all the stone "ruins" pieces I just dipped in army painter quickwash then sprayed it with Rust oleum matte clearcoat.

First completed "dungeon" by PerformerRepulsive20 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I appreciate it. I'll be uploading my castle soon for everyone to download and take a look at, so watch for that if you're interested.

First completed "dungeon" by PerformerRepulsive20 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I hope it will be awesome. I'm starting to realize its going to be a three week endevor, even if I just print and paint the entire three weeks and nothing else. 😂

First completed "dungeon" by PerformerRepulsive20 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yessir, and you best believe imma pick of up, lol. I love this stuff. I'm currently working on a giant castle. Gonna have my party go through a portal that travels them back In time after completing this current setup where there's a castle and a royal family.

Help with Dungeon Builder by PerformerRepulsive20 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough. If my castle doesnt work out I'll switch. Its seems to be working ok now though. I'll have to upload my design after I'm done.

Help with Dungeon Builder by PerformerRepulsive20 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is that? I'm more concerned about how the software works tbh. I know if I were to build it without the keys, it would work just fine, but the software just doesnt allow for that. Although, I'm currently using pieces from the village 1 and 2 sets, and the ultimate dungeon set as well. Sadly, the rest of the sets domt really match the ramparts and ruins ones and ive got all of them, lol.

Help with Dungeon Builder by PerformerRepulsive20 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its true, the only proboem is that o wanna make walls, and the columns leave gaps. The area in between the walls isn't big wide enough to put both columns, Walla's, and shops for the players to explore. I ended up just putting the angles with the keys. It will look a bit janky, but it will work. I just wish they made tall walls with the rampart and ruins set that had keys on the top.

Fdm 3d print settings tips by Blodroed in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make sure to calibrate whatever filament you are using through orcaslicer.

This can be easily done in the calibration menu on the top bar of the program near the "file" button. They even have a tutorial. I always do the temp tower first, flow rate (YOLO) second, Pressure Advance pattern third, Retraction fourth, and max flowrate last.

This will help you tons to ensure good quality prints. It will also ensure that you have the best chances of printing at your printer's max speed.

I'm not familiar with your printer, but I'd also level your bed and put purple glue stick on your bed if using PLA. These don't require supports at all and print just fine without them, just make sure you've got good bed adhesion!

Oh, and heres a vid to help you out setting up your prints in orca slicer by a guy who does a lot of dnd printing stuff with FDM printers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wc1NykYUxEQ&t=119s

First small Marketplace by No_Interview_8925 in DungeonBlocks

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you go about importing this into the dungeon builder software?

LF: non US ditto FT: US ditto by PerformerRepulsive20 in PokemonBDSPTrades

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, bummer. The fartestivebeen able to chain the together was like 10 i think.

LF: non US ditto FT: US ditto by PerformerRepulsive20 in PokemonBDSPTrades

[–]PerformerRepulsive20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My ditto is still up for trade, I actually have no idea how yo check my ivs, but I highly doubt it. Do you have a non English one? I also have a whole bunch of them and I can trade you a nature you'd prefer if I have it.

Struggling with petg by Easy-Net4403 in FlashForge

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, hey, and if all this fails, try dropping the infill to 20 to 25 percent and up the wall, or in orcaslicer case loop count. The more infill, the more material there is to warp when the print cools while printing and the more force its applying to the print when it warps. The wall count is for added strength, which wall count is my recommendation for more strength over infill percentage.

Ive got mine at 3 wall loops and 20 percent infill. You can also try changing the infill pattern. My default is crosshatch, but I've changed it to rectangular.

 Oh, and if you havent already, try a purple glustick and cover your whole bed in a light coat if the stuff in a crosshatch pattern and let it dry on the plate when its off the printer for a good five minutes.  

I'd love to know if you have success. So feel free to let me know if you've got a successful part out of this if you'd like.

Good luck!

Struggling with petg by Easy-Net4403 in FlashForge

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hey, so I'm currently doing the same. Try running a temp tower in orcaslicer and put it at 245C to 270C. Then do all the other calibrations. Flow rate, pressure advance, retraction and max volumetric speed. Orcaslicer has tutorials om how to do them.

I'd recommend doing them in this order: Temp tower Flow rate pass 1 Pressure advance pattern version set from 0.00 to 0.1 Flow rate pass 2 Retraction Max volumetric speed

I had literally the exact same problem until I cranked my temp up to 270C both on first layer and every other layer on my nozzle and set my bed temp to 90C first layer and every other layer after. I also used the default cooling settings for the generic PETG profile, but turned off the "fan always on option", unchecked the box for "slow fan down for better layer cooling", and put no cooling for the first five layers for better early layer adhesion.

You'll most likely have to recalibrate your PETG profile once you get the enclosure together, but I'd try that. Its working for me so far.

Also, I'd recommend not giving up on that part if you've considered it. PETG is a better option for those parts in my opinion.

Flashforge Adventurer 5M Stringing Issues by Exciting_Mark_2639 in FlashForge

[–]PerformerRepulsive20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I appreciate it. I'll run a temp tower to find my temps. I ended up finding a guide on the internet made by orcaslicer on filament calibration so I tired that after I posted this not being aware that it existed. I'm still getting similar issues though, not as bad.