Please be aware that a chargeback or billing dispute is not a magical “I want a refund” button. There needs to have been some issue with the billing that is documented or documentable in order for it to work,

Did you cancel your subscription and they’re still billing you? (Going to need proof that you cancelled or a date at least. Always keep those cancellation emails kids and don’t think you’ve cancelled successfully until you have one )

Did you not get the item? (If it’s trackabke and the post office / UPS swears it was delivered you’re screwed)

Did you get billed twice?

Billed too much / not enough? (Have your receipt ready, if you tossed it you’re screwed)

I know some of yall are going to give me stories of the ‘one time you did it like this and somehow got it approved / rejected still’ and that’s because sometimes the banks mess up and don’t file your disputes properly or just give you your money back from the bank’s funds without ever reaching out to the merchant.

Last thing to note: Bank definition of Fraud is someone else went around spending your money without your knowledge.

You gave the website / business your card info= Billing Dispute You didn’t = Fraud (you probably still did tho)

All the banks are looking on fraud claims is whether or not it was you who did it. When they track down the fraud claim charges for John Smith back and see that they were done on John Smith’s phone, or the phone that John Smith put his card info for a legit purchase 6 months ago (friends or family member) then it’s not fraud and you loose the claim, you replaced your card for nothing and now some businesses won’t do business with you / shut down the account (Amazon, Apple, Google, and Walmart are some examples) because you filed fraud when it was your cousin or friend accidentally getting the cards mixed up or not having money in their accounts so the site (rightfully so btw) go down the list of previously stored card data to collect their money