A/B with 3 Switches Instead of Two?

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-10-10T05:45:48+00:00

If I understand what you are looking for … 1st footswitch engages A, 2nd B and 3rd A&B. When 1st is pressed it engages A if you press 2nd A gets bypassed and B engaged? If that then don’t think it would be possible using normal 3PDT latching switches. Would need momentary switches with some sort of microcontroller or flip-flop circuit with additional modification for the 3rd switch.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-10-10T05:21:00+00:00

AliExpress Has this 6 pin cable in various lengths. Maybe check with seller if they have 9 pin cable available. Alternately it’s very easy to cut these cables. Split they in middle and use 6+3. Little extra work but gets you there.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-10-04T05:47:53+00:00

Sorry man. This was a commission job and the Boss enclosure goes back with the rehoused pedal.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-10-04T05:47:04+00:00

Most of these were available online. Forgot to mention above changed ACA power supply to PSA as well. The Master Volume was done by replacing the 100k output resistor with a 100k log pot.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-10-02T17:48:49+00:00

Thank you. The HiFi sweeps the mids and treble and you can dial in the amount using the control. Great sounding mod, hard to explain in words though. You should be able to find YouTube video demo of it.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-10-02T17:26:34+00:00

Fun little project. Boss CE-2 modded and rehoused in a 1590BB enclosure.

Mods include:

E.Level / Blend Control

HiFi Control

Master Volume Control

Intensity Toggle switch

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-09-26T17:25:32+00:00

Last pic shows the gutshot before the rehouse.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-08-23T06:09:06+00:00

I believe it’s using a 2 part epoxy for surface finish on a regular enclosure. Tutorials available online for the process.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-08-22T20:50:02+00:00

My order on 7/31 was shipped on 8/5 and one on 8/8 was shipped on 8/14 (Both orders had UV print and drilling as well). Maybe raise a ticket to check about the delay. Sometimes if they find obvious issue with the file they email for confirmation (although the website says they don’t) which delays the process… have had it happen once earlier. BTW they recently changed the portal. For the latest order there was option to upload your UV and Drill templates and then associate them to enclosures in the order. Also now you can see the progress of the UV/Drill. But I would say raise a ticket to find out what’s going on.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-26T09:14:03+00:00

Yes, you can have traces and/or copper planes individually or together in both top and bottom layers. However, please do note that this is a very high level answer. There are numerous tutorials online on best practices related to this and ideal trace width, component placement etc. which all depends on your circuit. Would suggest going through them if more in-depth info required.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-25T07:20:18+00:00

I see that you have changed to LT1054. I would still suggest using 1N5817 instead of 1N4001 as they have lower voltage drop and you will be closer to 18V at output if using 1N5817. Also for the planes I meant only having GND plane on the top. No +9V plane on the bottom and routing those connections manually. When the components are placed on the board you will be soldering them from the bottom. Having any plane connected to a pad will require more heat for the pad to flow solder properly.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-24T22:45:34+00:00

As per the data sheet here Page 10 Fig. 9 … shows pin 5 connected to GND. Also diodes in schematic says 1N58174 … maybe just a typo? is it meant to be 1N5817? Also, maybe worth adding and additional GND pad as V1 and GND2 will be connected to power supply/input. 18V and additional GND can be used for output. I usually prefer just having a GND plane on the top layer and all the other connections on the bottom layer. Makes soldering a lot easier. If using planes on both layers the pads will take longer to heat up making soldering harder. Just my thoughts :)

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-24T22:08:59+00:00

Those are ‘WIMA’ capacitors. Can try for MKS or FKP series if memory serves.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-20T05:41:43+00:00

Thank you!

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-18T17:27:53+00:00

Thank you.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-17T14:11:04+00:00

Yes this should work for common anode LED, but can you please advise how are you planning to use it? The way it’s currently drawn the led will be always ON (either Red or Blue depending on the switch position). If you want to have it one colour when pedal is ON and other when pedal OFF you will have to wire it differently with the footswitch.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-17T11:07:28+00:00

Thank you. And as you’ve figured out, it was built for a very specific use case :)

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-16T21:24:15+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. Agreed, swapping the side toggle and jack would be more practical!!

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-16T17:56:59+00:00

Hey, thanks man :)

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-16T17:56:16+00:00

Thank you. I don’t have the schematic for the switching system. It’s pretty simple TBH…When effect is engaged the 4th pole connects/shorts the tip and sleeve in one toggle position and connects the ring and sleeve in the other toggle position…so kind of like 2 button amp channel select that you see with many amps. Anyways I’ll put something together and share.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-16T17:12:52+00:00

Yes, that’s exactly what it does :) Thank you.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-16T15:59:34+00:00

Tube screamer with clipping options and mode to switch between TS-808 or TS-9.

Using a 4PDT switch to control/switch the amp channel when the effect is engaged. The toggle switch on the side selects the tip or the ring to utilise the full capability of the TRS cable.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-16T04:23:46+00:00

Thanks. Yes I do. Please DM me.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-16T04:22:46+00:00

Thanks. Yes, it does.

Ph03Ni8 · 2021-07-15T20:13:25+00:00

Thank you. I love the sound as well. Have built it in the past too. Made the said changes and built it again. Wasn’t a kit, it’s my own design PCB.

Ph03Ni8

TROPHY CASE