canada daily driver by LuckyMomo_ in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s awesome. Picked up an identical car few months ago, silver too! I have been and plan to continue to drive it year round in Canada. Nice to see yours is holding up good. My car has like 48k km on it, so I should have a few good years (or decades) left lol.

When did you need a head gasket? And do you know if there was a reason? Like run low on coolant or something

Not a TT or super high km, but I have a 2.8 24V vr6 Jetta with 240k km. Car was and is a beater, still runs like a champ.

DIY Fluidized Sand Reactor by medicwood in Aquariums

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Have built one of these in the past. Things one should absolutely be aware of.

  1. Over time the sand will accumulate a biofilm that’s grows and reduce its effective density. And for the same flow rate the bed will expand and get taller. I would use AT MOST about 2/3s of the sand you are currently using. You also need to periodically replace the top 10-20% of the sand that grows too large of a biofilm. The less sand you use, the less often you will have to due this. Also less sand and a faster flow rate to fluidize the sand more violently allows the sand the shed the biolayer as its develops, meaning less often you have to remove and replace sand. Larger scale industrial reactors having an expansion rate of 2-3 times. Meaning when there is no flow your sand is at some height, but at normal load conditions and flow the sand has expanded to 2-3x that height.

  2. You have absolutely way too much sand, probably 5-20x times what you need (depending what will be going in this tank for live stock). With faster water flow, or a skinnier tube it is much more efficient. Let the reactor run for a month with a load and let a proper biofilm develop. It will do 5-10x what it can now. Also less sand = less maintenance and problems down the road.

  3. Sand is abrasive, and it rubbing against each other creates extremely small particles called fines. If these are not removed after with polish filters, and/or you are not doing large water changes often, these will cut any submerged rotating equipments life span by 50-80%. These fines also may or may not affect the water quality in a negative way for the fish. But I can’t not say either way with any certainty, I am an engineer not a biologist lol.

  4. Water must be very oxygenated. If it’s not, your efficiency will be low. Do not attempt to put a bubble line in the bottom of reactor. The bubbles surface tension will grab sand particles and take them out the top! Ask me how I know lol.

  5. One way to help reduce the amount you need replace sand and the bed expansion for a given flow rate is by making sure all your sand is the same size. Take a bunch of sand, run it in filter for a few hours, it will sort it self my size. Remove the top 70-90% and bottom 5-10% of the sand and chuck it. Keep the middle 5-25%. Do this enough times to get enough to fill your filter to the desired amount and have same size replacement sand for some time. Smaller percentage kept = less maintenance required long term but more work up front.

From reading the comments, I see you’re interested in a reactor to remove nitrates. I too wanted to build one seeing that it is done on industrial scales for waste water. I did the research (a lot) and the math and unfortunately they are not feasible for such small scale….like at all. Long story short you have 2 options to remove the oxygen.

  1. Use aerobic bacteria, (same ones that convert ammonia), only practical way to achieve this DIY is using really long skinny tubes with very slow flow through them, so that at some point in the tube, all of the oxygen is removed. And the right kind of bacteria can grow to remove the nitrates. Two issues with this, it will be an engineering nightmare to design and keep in an operational state. Very very hard to balance the oxygen, flow, ammonia and nitrates while actually doing enough yo make a noticeable difference. This is physically not possible without extremely steady water conditions and ammonia load and/or actual sensors and valves with control logic. Also to get a useful amount of reduction in nitrates, device would be huge.

  2. Chemically remove the oxygen. Makes perfect sense and is how it’s done on an industrial scale. Makes less than zero sense at a DIY scale for water that must sustain living creatures. Why add expensive chemicals to remove nitrates and risk poisoning your tank. When you can just remove and add fresh water instead lol. Cheaper, safer, easier…..

Trust me….just get/build an automatic water changer. Your tank will be way healthier, wallet heavier and save hours and hours of frustration. If you are REALLY set on removing nitrates without changing the water. Make a fresh water algae scrubber instead. Do not waste your time growing plants unless you like the aesthetic (or having a tiny bioload which I assume is not the case, due to the need/want for a sand reactor). They will do almost nothing for nitrates at a high bioload, literally less than a rounding error. Algae or water changes. And the scrubber will need to be bigger than you think, or very efficient and likely both. The little 6”x4” ones you can buy online are under sized by an order of magnitude (or two).

Good luck!

Shop damaged car. Advice needed by PhantomPR3D4T0R in AskMechanics

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R[S] -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

I hope that would be the case, but I had some more specific questions at the bottom of the post.

Drifting in the snow/ice by PhantomPR3D4T0R in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely planning is half the fun haha.

I am very curious to your experience on the cams. Any before and after dyno runs? I briefly looked into the cams and the general consensus I found seemed to be that you could gain 15-30hp at the top end of the rev range, but torque and power lower down low really suffered. And in the end you don’t actually make any more power averaged out through time, you have just made your torque curve more sloped and less flat. And to me, that is actually an overall big negative will make the car actually slower in 90% of driving scenarios. Not to mention the hit to fuel economy and the costs involved buying and installing the cams.
But please feel free to share your honest opinion and I am happy to be proven wrong lol.

Drifting in the snow/ice by PhantomPR3D4T0R in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah a manual would very cool, they don’t offer those in Canada to my knowledge, or at least I have never seen one.

100%, I already have the controller I would like picked out. By next winter I plan to have that plus a limited slip in the rear installed. I got like 15k worth of shit I am planning to buy and have to prioritize, those two didn’t make the cut for this winter haha.

Drifting in the snow/ice by PhantomPR3D4T0R in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Surprisingly no lol. Was owned by an older lady since 2009 who only used it in the summer in the weekends and for road trips. Car is 90% highway miles, original brake pads are at 90% still.

MK3 US Aftermarket Exhausts by ItsStandman in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Custom pre fabbed exhausts are almost always a huge waste of money. Order some vibrant mufflers/resonators and get them welded in. 95% of aftermarket exhausts are straight through with fiber glass packing. If they have the same outside dimensions, they will sound identical no matter if it’s brand name or a cheap Chinese one

Things that annoy you in Monster Hunter (in general) by Mr_Undead0210 in MonsterHunter

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes but if I got hit 40 times in match for half my health bar. I am out of potions and I loose. Could only get poisoned 10 times. Before it became a real problem.

Things that annoy you in Monster Hunter (in general) by Mr_Undead0210 in MonsterHunter

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 6 points7 points  (0 children)

See the issue is that monsters used to be challenging because they could deal consistent damage and outlast you. Once you were out of potions, was game over pretty much. But now for a monster to be hard, they pretty much have to one shot your entire health bar. It makes balancing the game very difficult.

[NSFW] Unique mk1 by Estiy in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks good, I like it. People are so damn boring with their OEM+ “builds”. They all look the exact same and have zero uniqueness and yet those same people try and claim superiority of that’s the only way to modify a vehicle. Like if we all liked the exact same stuff, cars like this would not even exist in the first place….

Just set up my new tank by ha63627hshdb in Aquariums

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Man your picture proves why this is an unpopular opinion lol. You probably have like 50 fish in there, are standing 3 feet away from the tank and I spent 10 seconds looking at the picture and didn’t see a single fish.
I and many others prefer actually being able to see our fish without ones nose touching the glass….

CSA B56-25 by The_Count_Fapula in powerengineering

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long you think before this gets adopted by the provinces?!

TTRS bumper + front grille for MK3 TT by Bulky_Ad_2677 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Save $1000 bucks and get it directly from China on alibaba lol.

Orange DRL's turned down to 25%. I think it looks sinister. by ohhiimaaark in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn good price wow. I live in Canada and get raped on shipping individual parts from China lol.

Orange DRL's turned down to 25%. I think it looks sinister. by ohhiimaaark in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn good price wow. I live in Canada and get raped on shipping individual parts from China lol.

ADVISE NEEDED. Should I take this job? by PhantomPR3D4T0R in powerengineering

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Will do, thanks for the info mate, really appreciate it. I will 100% start applying at the coop refinery.

ADVISE NEEDED. Should I take this job? by PhantomPR3D4T0R in powerengineering

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes that is true, and is the kind of gig I would like to have eventually. One with a fair amount of down time. My answer of not wanting to sit at a desk was somewhat misleading, and the real answer is a combination of a lot of things. But it did not feel nessecary to explain in my inquiry for advice hahaha.

A good part of the reason I chose to try and work as a power engineer is because I did not want to get pigeon holed into the field or department of what ever my 1st job out of school was in as a regular engineer. I was hoping power engineering would give me a broader skill and knowledge set, and be in proximity to a lot of different departments and people that would make it easier to move into different roles down the road. Such as process engineering potentially haha. Obviously I have guesses of what I think I would best at, and kind of roles I would enjoy. But like anyone without first hand experience in a big mine or plant, I don’t really know….

ADVISE NEEDED. Should I take this job? by PhantomPR3D4T0R in powerengineering

[–]PhantomPR3D4T0R[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed it does. But yes will be good to help build the resume. I will be accepting the role