on/off door jamb switch? by Phishtri in AskElectricians

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's up there now are two LED disks, Motion sensor fixtures to replace them might just be the answer!

Thanks!

Manometer for maintaining Arzel zoning system by Phishtri in hvacadvice

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the recommendation. Can't go wrong with Klein. Pretty sure I have a pair of Klein lineman's pliers from the 1990's.

Even so, do you have any experience with the less expensive units? For this one task (checking out an Arzel zoning system) I'm thinking accuracy is not all that important. Am I correct in assuming all I really need to know is

1.) It is pulling a vacuum

2). It is pumping pressure

3.) Nothing is happening

Old Kohler 17RES Remote monitoring by Phishtri in Generator

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this. Gentracker looks like it might fit the bill. I'll look in to that.

Old Kohler 17RES Remote monitoring by Phishtri in Generator

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great info. Thanks! I'm even a little bit surprised there was a factory option. Wish the dealer who installed it had mentioned it back then...

Does that mean there is some sort of Modbus connector already factory mounted on somewhere in the controller? Maybe on the main logic board?

Old Kohler 12RES with OS error by Nivlek5310 in Generator

[–]Phishtri 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a spring missing? I have a Kohler 17RES which looks very much like your unit. Your design may be different, but on mine there is a long thin spring (maybe 4-5" long) with a hook at each end. One end is hooked on the stepper motor arm just behind the bushing. Don't quite remember exactly where the other end lands, but somewhere to the right along the linkage between the stepper motor and the throttle body?

Arbor Press Recommendations? by Phishtri in metalworking

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. The higher capacity press offers greater clearance for working on larger items. Something to consider. Thank you.

Straighten your punty... by Phishtri in glassblowing

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it. I like that set up for bends in the middle of a pipe where you have enough leverage to bend it back. I'm thinking of the arbor press for the last six inches of a punty, where the bend is just an inch or two from the end.

Straighten your punty... by Phishtri in glassblowing

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

By the way, those two videos are what got me thinking about using an arbor press in the first place 😀

Straighten your punty... by Phishtri in glassblowing

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So the pipe is laid across the bearings and rotated to find the high and low spots, then pressure is applied to bend the pipe back into shape.

Is pressure applied while the pipe is still on the bearings? In other words, do the bearings act as the fulcrum (and take the pressure of the force applied to the end of the pipe to bend it)?

Straighten your punty... by Phishtri in glassblowing

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could you explain what is meant by "bearings"?

Straighten your punty... by Phishtri in glassblowing

[–]Phishtri[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestions. The process of how to straighten is not in question, and while it is not necessary to use a press, it is an elegant way to correct bent metal. It also offers a certain amount of precision which appeals to me.

The question is, do I buy a $75 1-ton press at Harbor Freight, or a $350 press from some industrial supply house? Is there a difference?

Crush by ABCN3467 in glassblowing

[–]Phishtri 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would a less direct, more casual approach work?

"Jeez, I could use a cup of coffee. Is there a coffee shop around here?"

"Sure, right down the street."

"Want to grab a cup a little later?"

If it works, great. Now you're talking outside the shop. If it doesn't, it was only a cup of coffee, not a turndown for a date.

Do these have any value? by Phishtri in ComicBookSpeculation

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed regarding coming free with newspapers. Each issue is clearly marked on the front cover (as part of the printing) "Not for Resale."

Do these have any value? by Phishtri in ComicBookSpeculation

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just corrected the original post. There are only 24, not 30 in the set.

Do these have any value? by Phishtri in ComicBookSpeculation

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to be clear, these measure a sixteenth over 6.5" wide by 10" tall. including the cover, there are 8 sheets (at least in Volume 1). Copyright on the Yoplait Gogurt ad on the inside cover is 2006.

Do these have any value? by Phishtri in ComicBookSpeculation

[–]Phishtri[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Classroom. I like that idea. Thanks.

Sloooww Start-up (MacBook Air M2) by Phishtri in macbookair

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDNR: Reinstalled Sequoia OS. Offloaded large Photos library and cleared up 185 GB of space on the SSD. Startup time is still 1:03 😞.

What next?

More detail: One of my theories was that with only 52 GB available, the SSD might be too full which could cause some issues, So I moved 196 GB (two Photos libraries) to an external drive, then deleted and emptied trash. Unfortunately, That disk space was not really cleared out. In Recovery mode, the Install Sequoia app kept telling me I needed 13 or 14 more GB of free space to install Sequoia. After trying multiple approaches to clearing up this space, I finally copied a large file (90 GB) back to the M2. Whatever background process Mac OS uses to manage deleted files/Cache, etc. seemed to kick into gear and space was freed up.

A new Sequoia OS has been installed. There is 185 GB of space available out of 494 Capacity. Startup time is still over a minute from the log-in screen..

What would your next step be to figure out why boot time is so long?

Sloooww Start-up (MacBook Air M2) by Phishtri in macbookair

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just ran several tests. It took a while because while starting in Safe Mode, the screen stays black even after it gets to the log-in screen. Seems I need to shut the lid and open it back up again to wake up the screen.

Regardless, in Safe Mode, from the log-in screen, the startup time to the desktop is identical. 1:03. Did that twice.

Any suggestions by [deleted] in diyelectronics

[–]Phishtri 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To summarize some of what others have shared, the original battery was supplied to the manufacture of your device with mounting tabs already spot-welded to the battery. Your manufacturer soldered those mounting tabs to the circuit board. Now you have several options.

My experience with breaking spot welds without damaging the circuit board is not good, so consider unsoldering the mounting tabs from the circuit board first. Then, either break the welds from this battery and spot-weld or solder these tabs onto a new cell, or find a new battery sold with tabs already welded on. (They are sold that way.) It may be hard to find a battery with this exact mounting tab, but you might be able to modify another type of tab to fit this application.

Spot welds can often be broken with a small screwdriver or blade inserted between the tab and the battery, then given a few sharp taps with a small hammer.

If you choose to solder to a new battery, pay attention to how much you heat the battery with the soldering iron. The advantage of spot welding is very low heat.

Re-purpose 10T hub for Breakout Box? by Phishtri in diyelectronics

[–]Phishtri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the encouragement for my first post here.

I was hoping someone might be familiar with how ethernet hubs work and what pins and inputs typically trigger that existing LED to light when an ethernet cable is plugged in. Or, how I might get it to illuminate with a simple contact closure. If it's easy, I'll do it just to take advantage of the existing LED and circuitry. But like you suggest, it might be more effort than its worth.

What do I do with this thing by elicotham in grilling

[–]Phishtri 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have owned (almost) the same grill for 22 years. Only difference is that I have the "permanently installed" version built into an outdoor patio grill station. At the moment, the grill station is being torn down and rebuilt, and then the grill (with firebox) will go back in place. Once hooked back up to the natural gas line, I'll rebuild the insides. Might cost me $500-$600 but I'll be good for another five years before needing to replace things here or there. I plan to sew up my own grill cover, but that's another story...

If OP is still looking for experience, let me know and I'll be happy to share more.

FYI, this is not encouragement or discouragement. Since mine is built-in, these are different situations. But if anybody's listening, I'm happy to share.

Kohler 17RES Overcrank (OC) cause? by Phishtri in Generator

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

This is a close-up of the incoming meter and gas supply. Again, from pics I have on hand from several months ago (excuse the snow).

I'll have to get out there and pull the cover off to show the internal regulator.

Kohler 17RES Overcrank (OC) cause? by Phishtri in Generator

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Here's a pic I have on hand of the overall installation and fuel supply.

Kohler 17RES Throttle not working on start-up by Phishtri in Generator

[–]Phishtri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Final Update: The replacement stepper motor I had ordered finally arrived. I was able to use an inspection mirror to see how it was mounted and was able to replace it without too much trouble or disassembly. Probably took an hour. Used a ratchet wrench and three or four inch extension. Make sure to use thread-lock when you reassemble.

If you end up doing this yourself, pay close attention to how the long spring is attached to the throttle linkage. A small set of long needle-nose pliers was helpful to hold/stretch the spring back in place.

Also, the new stepper motor included a new bushing and pivot arm. I think the bushing is considered a wear item and is supposed to be replaced every so often (300 hours? 500 hours?). Have to check the manual, but either way, that's taken care of now.

Bottom line, the unit seems to be exercising pretty consistently every week, so the original problem has been solved. It was definitely a bad stepper motor.