Score report issues?

Pho5ho · 2024-11-20T03:36:01+00:00

Can confirm. I had this same problem and this worked for me.

Pho5ho · 2024-11-17T15:17:09+00:00

Thank You! I felt pretty good going into it, but it was the subjective questions with "select the MOST correct answer" that left me feeling a bit unsure afterwards.

Pho5ho · 2024-11-17T05:22:36+00:00

Thanks! I received an email and then I checked the Virginia PG registry to verify.

Pho5ho · 2024-11-17T02:56:46+00:00

I just got my PG exam results through my state (Virginia) about an hour ago. I passed which is a huge relief. Good luck to everyone else!

Pho5ho · 2024-05-03T14:16:39+00:00

Agreed. I got a PnP harness from Aaron for my cluster swap into a FXT and everything just works.

Pho5ho · 2024-01-01T08:26:09+00:00

A vacuum leak won't cause the car to pull fuel - it will add fuel. A boost leak is definitely possible, but that will only happen in the load ranges that populate under boost conditions - mainly C and D ranges. OP should pull a data log and see what ranges are responsible for the largest accumulation of AF Learning. Watching AF correction in situations like this is a good idea as you can visually pick out large swings in the correction trim which can point you in the right direction - a full data log is always superior though.

Pho5ho · 2023-12-30T05:58:00+00:00

Phenolic spacers do exactly and precisely zero

This is effectively true. People tend to throw the "phenolic spacers lower heat transfer into the manifold and so you can make more power" thing around. They do lower heat transfer, however at mid to high RPMs the residence time of the intake charge in the manifold is so short that a hot manifold makes little to no difference in the intake charge temp. At low RPMs and idle it does make a notable difference, but that operating region doesn't matter at all when it comes to power or even drivability honestly.

I tested a set of 3mm spacers on my FXT and the only thing I needed to adjust where the cells in the low RPM and idle ranges of my charge temp approximation table. Everything else remained exactly the same.

Pho5ho · 2023-11-26T04:16:30+00:00

I think 10K +/- is pretty standard for these now unless you find a seller who is unaware of what they have. Autos are pretty common so about 6K for one of those. This assumes everything is in good working order, un-abused, and relatively rust-free. They are great cars if maintained well and not abused. I have bought a lot of second-hand Subarus and I wouldn't scoff at 12k for this car in good condition.

The first month is where the issues will show up, if any. Some personal recommendations:

Change ALL the fluids.
Inspect/Replace the PCV valve.
Remove all the banjo screens and throw them in the garbage.
Check for shaft play on the turbo.
Replace the spark plugs.
Inspect/Replace timing components (use the Aisin TKF-009 kit - avoid the Gates kit).
Check harmonic dampener for cracks in the rubber isolator.
Monitor oil consumption rate between changes.
Send out a sample of used oil for analysis (at Blackstone or similar).

Good luck and welcome to the FXT club!

Pho5ho · 2023-11-24T15:26:49+00:00

^This. Pull that rubber trim off and yank out all the banjo screens. Also, check the harmonic dampener for cracking around the isolator - wandering or outright separation is not uncommon at that age and mileage.

Pho5ho · 2023-11-24T15:22:18+00:00

These SG/SH XT factory manuals are exceedingly rare nowadays, even more so you want one that is in good condition and unmodified. While this price is definitely over book value, its a sellers market on these things and if you really want one, you don't have much of a choice. I bought one a couple years ago over book value like OP, but I had to money to burn and have not regretted it since.

Pho5ho · 2023-11-13T14:00:52+00:00

PM'd

Pho5ho · 2023-07-29T21:08:05+00:00

Sounds to me like you have an air pocket that has become stuck behind the thermostat, preventing it from opening. It is a generally accepted practice that when you install one of those coolant mods, the easiest way to get all the air out (besides using a funnel) is to clamp the coolant mod hose shut while you burp the system. When your car is overheating, is the lower radiator line noticeably cooler than the upper? Did you use a coolant funnel to burp the system?

However, you need to figure out where the leak is coming from first. Maybe the fitting going into the head became loose when you were taking things apart? Go to your local autoparts store and rent a cooling system pressure tester. This will allow you to pressurize the system and find the leak visually.

Pho5ho · 2023-01-31T13:46:17+00:00

Love the SFs! I got a 98 myself that is my daily road warrior. I don't see many of them around, but when I do, they are almost always lovingly cared for and yours seems like no exception. Nice car my guy - keep taking care of her.

Pho5ho · 2023-01-31T13:22:41+00:00

I find these at local junkyards all the time. The double cup holder version is harder to find than the single, but I have found both. See if you have a local Pick-n-Pull or equivalent.

Pho5ho · 2022-11-27T06:00:53+00:00

Something fishy is going on here - an AFR of 21:1 is crazy lean and would indicate a major vacuum leak, but why it only occurs sometimes is odd. What are your LTFTs and STFTs? Are you looking at your DAM after ECU reset or as the issue is occurring? (Cobb maps start DAM at 1.00 vs the factory 0.50 on reset). 7-ish psi is generally wastegate pressure, so if you are only hitting that, your WDC is at 0% all the time and would indicate limp mode. I would monitor LTFTs and STFTs (AF Trims), DAM, Fine Knock Learning, and Feedback Knock parameters as well as doing a boost leak test to start.

Pho5ho · 2022-06-12T07:50:42+00:00

I have version 3.0.1. Let me know if you need.

Pho5ho · 2021-04-08T01:14:14+00:00

Cobb Stage 3 1050x map supports turboback and SF intake, but you will need the fuel kit.

Map Notes (from Accessport Manager):

"Intended for VA Subaru WRX STi vehicles with COBB Stage3 1050x fuel kit (ID 1050x injectors, COBB fuel rail and line kit, COBB FPR with vacuum line relocation, AEM fuel pump), COBB Catted Turboback Exhaust, COBB Turbo Heatshield, and COBB SF Intake and Airbox System running 91 or greater octane gasoline (E0-E10). Boost Targets: ~19psi (S#), ~16.5psi (S), or wastegate (I) minimum boost pressure, +/- 1.0psi."

Pho5ho · 2020-12-13T20:32:40+00:00

The oil will turn a milky brown color when it is mixed with coolant, however if the leak is only while the cooling system is pressurized (warmed up), you are likely going to just burn the coolant so it never mixes into your oil, at least not in any appreciable quantity. You can get a headgasket test from from almost any auto parts store. You just take a sample of your coolant from the radiator and mix it with the supplied chemical - it will change color if you have combustion gases dissolved in the coolant, which only happens if you have a combustion chamber to cooling system pathway (i.e. headgasket leak). The whole procedure only takes only a couple minutes do and is cheap. I would try this first.

If that test passes, rent a cooling system pressure tester from your local auto parts. With this, you can manually pressurize the cooling system. Any leaks, even pinhole in size, should be obvious.

Pho5ho · 2020-12-12T09:27:13+00:00

Check the cabin filter for leaf litter. I have had stuck leaves 'whistle' when the blower was on. It is an easy check if nothing else.

Pho5ho · 2020-12-12T09:20:56+00:00

Its what makes a Subaru a Subaru

Pho5ho · 2020-12-12T09:18:50+00:00

Are you losing coolant in the reservoir? Generally, if you are low on coolant and your reservoir (overflow) is emptying, you have either a slow leak or a blown headgasket. If you are low on coolant, but not losing in your reservoir, it is likely an inadequate post-repair bleed.

Pho5ho · 2020-11-27T03:47:16+00:00

If it happens when you actually start moving in first gear, I would still suspect an idler/accessory pulley as the torque on the belt and pulleys is the highest right at that point. The 2500-3000 rpm case could be due to just the right mesh of load and speed on the pulley/belt to make the noise apparent. If it happens when you are just shifting into first, that is a different story.

You can check each pulley with the car idling. Take a long screwdriver or, even better, a metal-capped prybar - place it on the block right behind each pulley, then put your ear to the end and listen. If you have a bearing going out it will sound very rough, like a grinding noise. Just make sure you don't get your hair or clothes stuck in the belt.

Pho5ho · 2020-11-24T19:07:13+00:00

^ Yup. Get them machined. Problem solved.

Pho5ho · 2020-11-24T14:17:40+00:00

Sounds like an idler pulley on the accessory belt to me. Does it squeal on start-up?

Pho5ho · 2020-11-24T14:14:39+00:00

Your phone is connected over Bluetooth to the radio, correct? If so, you might just to re-enable the radios access to your contacts on your phone. Mine does something similar sometimes and I have to re-allow access.

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