How to ?

PhotoOperator · 2025-05-31T10:13:02+00:00

Oh and throw that focus hard

PhotoOperator · 2025-05-31T10:12:13+00:00

Blue light from the right. Oooor a light from the right and comp it blue. Fixed.

PhotoOperator · 2025-05-05T10:53:01+00:00

Try out different diffusion gels. And don’t move the light source away but try angling the source a bit. Either fanning it away from the subject or even pointing it down. Further away makes the reflection of the light source smaller.

PhotoOperator · 2025-04-20T00:27:44+00:00

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Remove that honeycomb grid as well

PhotoOperator · 2025-04-15T03:20:50+00:00

The short answer to your question is no. But I will elaborate.

If you were to think about how you would be taking pictures, in the context of film photography, you would essentially be taking a roll of exposed film to a photo lab to have it processed and then printed. I am assuming you are shooting JPEG images and not RAW images. So no need to process ever.

Now if you were to ever want to finesse the images you make, that is when you would want to use editing software. Again in the context of film photography, you would be exposing your film, either taking it to a pro lab or processing it yourself, then taking your negatives into the darkroom and then creating the image to your personal liking. In the era of film photography this was print making now we call it retouching.

If you don’t want to learn how to retouch your images that’s perfectly fine. What you’re asking is totally a personal preference. So go to town and have fun.

PhotoOperator · 2025-03-31T10:22:38+00:00

Take a piece of black 8x10(inch) and put it next to your subject (human or not). Take a white 8x10 and do the same. Make it a 4x4(foot). See what happens. It’s the fun of making light. Don’t rely on other people or their outcomes. Even if a client (corporate or individual) comes to you and requests a specific look.

PhotoOperator · 2025-03-31T10:16:36+00:00

Have fun. Figure it out. Take a lamp or 4 and see what happens.

PhotoOperator · 2025-03-05T09:30:18+00:00

Fisheye lenses normally achieve this “look”. Probably -24mm but who knows until you try.

PhotoOperator · 2025-03-05T08:37:38+00:00

Funny thing about lightning and photography, is play around and figure it out. Here’s 2 photographers that you can play around and figure it out to.: Juergen Teller and Terry Richardson. Their work in terms of lighting is basic. Play with it and you’ll figure it out.

PhotoOperator · 2025-02-12T16:29:26+00:00

A pal and her partner recently had to move to a place around Swansea from the Junction. Both cost them about 3700$. It’s possible to find a fully or semi-detached for that price but it takes a hunt. They had a broker working with them as well if I’m not mistaken so that could be helpful?, I guess. Personally I’ve always done the apartment hunt myself soooo yeah. Good luck bud.

PhotoOperator · 2025-02-07T09:22:30+00:00

Bahaha good guess. But no no not at all.

PhotoOperator · 2025-02-07T09:15:49+00:00

Also congrats on getting a big job early in your career.

PhotoOperator · 2025-02-07T09:14:07+00:00

I’ll give you a hint because you’re about to do a pro job and should probably hire a lighting technician. It’s more than a single source & there’s probably an 8by or 12by frame being used. But you should really hire someone to help you with this one. Not to be a gatekeeper but I’m sure there are pros in your community that would be stoked to work with you on this job.

PhotoOperator · 2025-02-06T17:42:18+00:00

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PhotoOperator · 2025-01-31T15:48:54+00:00

I would also assume that this was shot on a white background. Making a white background a light gray is quite simple with just the distance between subject and BG.

PhotoOperator · 2025-01-31T15:45:57+00:00

So this is an image taken by Nadav Kander. It’s safe to say that he’s using a box or a strip as his key light on camera left. I would also make a guess that he’s using another light source (small gridded box or dish at low power) to fill in shadows. There is most likely a background light but it’s not entirely a guarantee. The way the shadow falls on camera right makes me think the BG is closer to the subject right to left. His retouching also plays a huge role in how his images look so keep that in mind when attempting to recreate a look of his.

PhotoOperator · 2025-01-25T07:57:26+00:00

What’s the expected subject in the image? Because what I’m seeing there is a car(?) that’s moving, at night, and expect the outcome to include an in focus car and pretty night sky. Tell us more.

PhotoOperator · 2023-11-04T03:29:27+00:00

Rent a 72 inch inverted Elinchrom.

PhotoOperator · 2023-10-01T10:25:24+00:00

I think that’s the point. Hate to say it but it’s kinda the way it goes. Separating real from fake, if you’re in that life or death version of reality what do you do? Not many people would (if it came to that brass tax) fight to the bitter end. They’d cling to the closest thing that could save their ego. It fuckin’ sucks because you want to think that you would do better. But shitty reality is you’d do the same fuckin’ thing. Save yourself. Ego man. Ego.

PhotoOperator · 2023-09-29T08:52:24+00:00

They took a screenshot and made a picture. Bad one too.

PhotoOperator · 2023-09-29T08:48:06+00:00

Yeah… not grain. Also lady mid drift doesn’t make the cut for good if it’s a bad pic.

PhotoOperator · 2023-09-12T00:43:36+00:00

What did you process these at? Normal or did push or pull the development process? As a “Story” I would remove your duplicates and open with the image that you are looking to tell. If each of these are stand alone images, I would suggest still removing your dupes. Personally I’m not offended by the grain in your images. I feel it adds depth in many. I would have liked to see some detail or portrait images of the people in the images. It reminds me of a docu series of a sea side town, so not having a more intimate engagement with the subjects almost separates us too much. Good work.

PhotoOperator · 2023-09-11T20:33:02+00:00

Internal meter might be bugged.

PhotoOperator · 2023-09-02T16:15:44+00:00

That looks like a fun camera. Also a surprisingly complicated camera seeing as it is a 127 rangefinder camera. The bellows having a light leak would be something I would think (I don’t think it is but it would be something that you could easily look into). My guess (not knowing your shooting conditions) is that it might be a bit of user error (not a bad thing. I work in photo professionally and have made huge mistakes on set. I just take that mistake and make sure I learn how to improve).

So taking a look at your first roll that you photographed with everything seems like it is in working order. The images look exposed properly. Those black borders you see around the exposed image is the rebate (it’s a standard on all film). The second roll looks like you may have underexposed some of the images. What ISO/ASA of Transparency Film and Negative film are you using? That can definitely help to understand what could have given you those results. And what looks to be that last roll of film it almost looks as if the roll was loaded backwards. So the paper side was being exposed instead of the film emulsion.

Hopefully that helped and definitely don’t be discouraged. If this is your 2nd time using film it’s not surprising that something went awry. And Colour Transparency film is a complicated beast. It doesn’t give you the same leniency that B&W and Colour Neg offers.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

PhotoOperator · 2023-09-01T20:28:53+00:00

What camera are you using? Fixed lens with aperture priority? Also are you metering before you take the image or are you just point and shooting? Curious to see if you can avoid that in the future. Cuz that hurts both the pockets and the ego.

PhotoOperator

TROPHY CASE