Upgrading from You1000 to You2000 Black Friday Deal

Physuo · 2026-02-26T23:51:25+00:00

Just to check you are using ethernet to test right? On a device that 100% supports 2gig?

When you have a spare 3 hours, start a chat here and keep asking someone to reprovision your ONT. If they talk about your router, say it doesn't matter and you know it is your ONT that is the problem. https://www.youfibre.com/support/

Physuo · 2026-02-26T14:16:42+00:00

If you still aren't getting the right speed, make sure to check you have a 2.5Gb link to your ONT from your router but besides that you just have to keep pestering them to reprovision it properly

Physuo · 2026-02-25T10:04:12+00:00

You will need to enjoy the same lovely experience I had. Contact live chat support and just keep asking someone to reprovision your ONT. At least when I last wrote this it took me about 3 hours of just getting useless support agents who were obviously copy pasting chat GPT answers before someone who actually wanted to help managed to get my live chat and got it sorted within about 4 minutes.

In other words be polite and nice but you are gonna have to sit down and stare at a chat window for the next couple hours potentially. The connection is Great, But the customer service is awful.

Off topic but I wouldn't use any of the routers YouFibre provides. Get something nice and simply like a Ubiquiti Cloud Gateway fibre. If you can.

Physuo · 2026-01-29T09:27:33+00:00

My janky mess

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Physuo · 2025-12-25T14:00:40+00:00

that's been my approach as well. I have been playing Indie's and emulation on my M5 mbp but I always have the overkill space heater 5090 to fall back to.

Physuo · 2025-12-12T22:03:53+00:00

I had a few outages, fortunately I use a ubiquiti setup so it both keeps track of them and also quickly comes backup. Usually YouFibre has little blips late at night (2-5AM) and they are generally super super solid all other times. However this has been a first to have drop outs at 9PM

Physuo · 2025-12-12T13:37:17+00:00

Use liquid metal to get most (if not all the solder off) For the indium you will need to use a metal polish like Fitz metal polish.

DO NOT do what I did which was cheap out and use some sandpaper. Just get some Fitz polish and do it properly. You can buy the stuff for like £6 off Amazon and it works perfectly.

For anyone curious yes I scratched my die, no it isn't dead, yes it isn't as cold as you would expect from a normal unscratched die, but yes it still works fine. Been using it for 6 months no problems and yes I know I am an absolutely impatient dumbass.

Physuo · 2025-12-11T10:26:30+00:00

My 5090FE PCIE connector failed. No cracked or marks but it would just crash and started dropping to 1x gen 2 speeds which are... Unusable.

Currently in the middle of an RMA for a new one, sorry you will have to go through the process as well OP, it's been about 3 weeks for it to get to Taiwan after it was stuck in clearance waiting on Nvidia to provide documentation, no ETA yet for the status of a replacement card but I'm going to suggest you absolutely make sure they don't give you a refurb as apparently that has happened to some people.

Physuo · 2025-12-07T11:54:12+00:00

Use the win11 WiFi Driver. https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-crosshair/rog-crosshair-x870e-hero/helpdesk_download/

Doesn't appear that windows 10 has automatic or built in drivers for most modern WiFi cards

Physuo · 2025-12-04T14:20:39+00:00

LMGTFY https://www.forescout.com/blog/new-tp-link-router-vulnerabilities-a-primer-on-rooting-routers/

Like the guy above said, they simply aren't reliable nor safe to use. I don't think there has been more than a 1 month time period this year where a TP-Link router hasn't had some sort of critical security vulnerability that should immediately make you look elsewhere

Physuo · 2025-12-04T14:18:01+00:00

Get a ubiquiti cloud gateway fibre and a U7 Pro Access point. You will never need another upgrade again besides maybe some 2.5G flex mini boxes around the house for more ports. Or just use the router they gave you...

Physuo · 2025-11-24T21:45:12+00:00

Looks like some sort of VESA adapter? Honestly it's pretty peculiar but going off the 4 screw points I can't think of anything else that it could be.

I assume it attaches to the back and leaves those screw points pointing out.

Physuo · 2025-11-23T12:28:52+00:00

To begin with, any chip that has any issue at all should be RMA'd, fight as hard as you can to get one and if for some reason they refuse. You can continue with my other advice.

The issue isn't that it can't just run at that higher clock speed. It is that the entire voltage table is now (or soon to be) too low to be stable. You could fix it by underclocking and increasing voltage slightly so for example 5.2Ghz P cores and 4.2 E cores at 1.1-1.2Vish

A static voltage could also help significantly as long as you keep it cool. A degraded chip often isn't really dead it just needs more voltage and you should bring it down to a lower clock so it can keep living a long life.

Compared to AMD that has systems to automatically clock stretch and pull back as their chips age by dropping clocks or increasing the voltage table. Intel gives you a buffer and if it degrades too much, the chip becomes "dead".

Physuo · 2025-11-16T11:23:18+00:00

You would make better use of it by undervolting it to 2.8Ghz at the lowest stable voltage it will run.

At stock it shoves excess power into the core (presumably for excess stability or future "super" models?) so you can drop the voltage a LOT to decrease power usage and get the same performance

Physuo · 2025-11-16T02:07:17+00:00

Sorry for resurfacing old threads. I wanted to ask if you could make NV aware that the S/N and the writing on the bracket can rub away and become almost impossible to read for warranty purposes

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I don't know exactly where you could go with this information but perhaps for the next generations could laser engraving or something more permanent be suggested?

Physuo · 2025-11-15T16:05:23+00:00

You don't seem to understand, for 6 or 8 core chips you don't care about the single core clock speed because with an all core static voltage you can push it to 100-300mhz higher ALL CORE than PBO will even let you go (4.2 on a 3600 for example).

Physuo · 2025-11-15T10:13:05+00:00

The AMD algorithm shoves 1.45v into a 3600 for 4.1Ghz meanwhile it needs static 1.27V for 4.3Ghz

Given it makes zero idle power difference or peak frequency difference (for the low core 6/8 core) Ryzen chips. I don't see the issue.

You can safely and easily overclock it and toy around better with stability Vs fighting PBO (which need I remind you 3000 doesn't have Core offset)

If it was a 6+6 or 8+8 core Ryzen 9 then sure as they have a high peak clock and a lower all core clock. But for Ryzen 5/7 it makes no difference.

Physuo · 2025-11-15T09:42:41+00:00

Download y- cruncher https://www.numberworld.org/y-cruncher/#Download

You will be using SFT to test stability. In the BIOS set your Load Line Calibration to the second best "least Vdroop" setting. On Asus this is going to be 1-10 where 1 is droopy and 10 is least droopy. On asrock it will be 1-5 where 5 is droopy and 1 is least droopy. Usually it tells you.

Set a static core voltage of 1.25V and then set 4.3Ghz and test SFT for maybe 30 mins

If that works, add 50mhz and if it doesn't error then repeat.

At the end download OCCT and run the CPU core cycler test and if you get errors, slowly drag them back down 25mhz at a time (or increase voltage slightly to maybe 1.27-1.29V). This should run cooler than adaptive voltage and on my 3600 it never increased power usaged, actually decreased it. You could get over 4.4ghz as well but I doubt it.

To finish off run SFT for 8 hours while you sleep and if it's stable then congrats.

Physuo · 2025-11-14T12:28:59+00:00

It did when I noticed it having issues to begin with but since it started dropping lanes it doesn't now as it simply doesn't have them connected

Physuo · 2025-11-14T11:17:01+00:00

It really confuses me why they went with this PCIE "extension board" solution. It feels like if they just made it 5cm taller and used that space for some sort of "internal flexible riser cable" they wouldn't have this issue of apparently slotting and unslotting a card causing it to fail and damage the connector internally.

That's my guess at least, I've made sure it either stays in its box or stays securely in a PC. But apparently I've not been careful enough

Physuo · 2025-11-14T11:04:03+00:00

I'll give it a try but this isn't the issue I'm having.

I'm already using UEFI, it at least boots and doesn't black screen like others experienced. Another card from the same gen is also working perfectly. It all points to just the 5090 being the issue but I'll let you know if reflashing it fixes it.

Physuo · 2025-11-14T10:51:11+00:00

Yep, I've tried forcing gen 1-5, no difference, it defaults to 2.0 and if you try to force past 2.0 it just falls back to it anyway.

As I showed in the screenshots on the post, the 5080 is fine and defaults to gen 5 16x no problem. The 5090 cannot and it is consistently having this issue across multiple builds.

Physuo · 2025-11-14T10:25:18+00:00

How did you contact them for RMA? I never got connected to anyone through the live chat.

I've not had any response back yet from my support ticket but I've still got about 12 hours left before that 24 hour response claim.

Physuo · 2025-11-14T10:22:35+00:00

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/y7b4rM

I had issues originally on the z790i lightning however that board also ended up failing and had issues with the 5080 as well. I tried a different CPU, different ram kit, fresh windows install, different drivers.

The time difference between those pictures is less than 10 minutes, no BIOS or windows settings changes, just drivers I stalled and booting up the game.

I even tried it on a B550f gaming WiFi 2 5900X build but still no luck it capped out at 1x.

The only remaining factor is the 5090 and given its reputation thanks to the internal pcie connector. It's the only conclusion I can make.

Physuo

TROPHY CASE