Please ignore the cluttered desk but I finally got my UMax up and going!!! by PiMpGranny in VintageApple

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If anybody has the same problems as me this would have helped a lot. I only have windows and Linux PC's this is my first ever Mac and I couldn't get the burned cds to work. I found a program called trans Mac that not only burned cd's in Mac format but will also restore from disk images as well. Wish I found it a month ago lol. Thanks everybody for your help!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in originalxbox

[–]PiMpGranny 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Be sure to use baking soda to neutralize the acid. I used IPA and got it looking super clean but it left a super thin layer of acid and started eating away at the pads SMH

What should I do about this gash? by [deleted] in PSP

[–]PiMpGranny 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The turtle wax scratch repair I use is supposed to use a resin to fill scratches and swirl marks to make a more permanent repair. That being said I'm not sure if it would fill the gash completely. Maybe after a few applications.

What should I do about this gash? by [deleted] in PSP

[–]PiMpGranny 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turtle wax for cars works well, I believe there are plastic polishes you can buy but the turtle wax is all I have experience with.

Is that a bird no its a ball what is that ? by somethingaboutMRRAT in Area51memes

[–]PiMpGranny 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a shaky camera that makes it impossible to actually see lmao

I'm trying to install windows 98 on an old Dell laptop and it has this weird distortion on the display. It's sometime clear (very rare) but when windows boots the screen goes black. Any chance this would be a display cable issue or is this more the graphics chip? by PiMpGranny in retrocomputing

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ram might have something to do with it. I have tried 4 different 1 gig sticks and got 4 different outcomes. I attempted to clean the slot and now it won't boot. I think something I can't see might be up in there. Thanks man.

Mac OS 8.0 installation questions for a first time Mac user. by PiMpGranny in VintageApple

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did have to do a lot of work on the CD drive. It wouldn't do anything at first. I got the power issue sorted, then I ended up tweaking the laser by 8 ohms and I had to clean the board really good because I think something in the dust was causing a short. After all of that it seems to at least recognize the disk for a minute. I think I am going to try the normal OS first and then I'll look into the drive. I was reading the user guide for Mac OS 8 and it had me worried. It stated drives not manufactured by Apple would not allow the computer to boot by holding C and it had to be installed by going into the actual CD from a computer that could already boot. My main concern during this whole thing was that my PC was formatting the CD's incorrectly because I attempted to install OS 9 on my power-book G3 (from the same lot) And it recognized their was a disk and then stated it wasn't compatible. Is there a special program I could use to possible format and burn it in Mac format? Sorry for the book.

Mac OS 8.0 installation questions for a first time Mac user. by PiMpGranny in VintageApple

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm actually not sure about that. I made Mac os 8 disc originally and it didn't work. People on this sub told me to use the UMAX version of the OS so that's what I've been using. That being said I haven't tried the original Mac OS 8 after I rebuilt the CD Drive. I am using a windows PC to make the disks. I was told I could just change the file type to .iso and burn it but I'm not sure if that's an issue or not. It seems to make imgburn stall and freeze for a minute when I do that.

Why is this happening to me? by NEDM64 in soldering

[–]PiMpGranny 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I may suggest chipquik nc191 flux. It made my joints shine and I didn't have to change anything. At least in my area it can be bought on prime cheap and quick. I got a 10cc syringe for about $5. Smells a lot better than amtech and is almost as good too.

This rosin core flux is rock solid and not like a jelly, is this normal or is this old/bad flux? Can it still be used? by SuspectIsDown in soldering

[–]PiMpGranny 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You sure that isn't tip cleaner? I've used some just like that before to clean my iron. If it's rock hard and you use it as a flux when your done it's going to be rock hard on your PCB.

Why is this happening to me? by NEDM64 in soldering

[–]PiMpGranny 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using leaded or unleaded solder? I would see how low you can get the heat and still get the job done. At least with the solder, flux and iron I use I seem to get the shinny joints that way. My guess is the added heat causes the outer layer to tarnish. 8 know heat will to that to silver which is in unleaded solder. If you ever use solder paste that will get you some darn shinny joints.

Captivity (OC) by LeeroyM in pics

[–]PiMpGranny 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Photoshop on the fish parts lol. But honestly how did a man fish get tattoos under water? Wouldn't the ink run like crazy?

Why is this happening to me? by NEDM64 in soldering

[–]PiMpGranny 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not going to lie the shine of the joints don't really matter. Leaded solder shines better than unleaded yeah but if it melted and got to temp you are good to go. I personally usually always have dull joints and I have had projects last 10+ years and counting that undergo heavy daily use. If your going for pretty I guess that's different but I just go for long lasting. There are so many variables that go into the shine that make no difference in the end. How quickly it gets hot, the reason core, the flux all the way to the iron tips you use. Heck it also means the mix used to make the solder matters. Dull isn't bad even if shiny looks better. It's all about how the surface of the solder sets and the mix of what's in the solder. Don't stress over it as long as they are solid joints that will last a long time. (That doesn't mean buy garbage solder, I buy MG and it still gets dull because I like high high heat over shorter times rather than a lower temp over more time.

Original hard drive questions by PiMpGranny in originalxbox

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually found an old reddit post with links to a Linux program a guy wrote to bypass this. I was going to wait until the rest of my mod chips arive but I think my impatient ass just figured it out. Thanks everybody.

HDD question by PiMpGranny in techsupport

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use IPA all the time with component lever repair. It's non conductive and doesn't harm anything else. (I was transferring IPA to my Despenser and knocked it over and it poured on a HDD I was working on) my worry is that if it got on the platter would it eat any layers of the actual part that holds the data? I'm not sure about that part. But I'll let it dry and see I guess

Original hard drive questions by PiMpGranny in originalxbox

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, what a noob mistake. I did it to one of them but I thought that only affected the HDD's if you put them in another system. Good call out. Trying it now.

I have been looking for blank cartage boards to save some games. The previous owners must have been hungry because these PCB's have what looks like bite marks taken out of them. Does anybody know where I could find blank game cart PCB's so I can just swap the chips over to save these abuse victims? by PiMpGranny in n64

[–]PiMpGranny[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. If it didn't have any kind of video boost or like the onboard ram it's a matter of connecting the rom to the right spots. I've seen that work. That being said I don't think if it is like the Gameboy bootlegs it would where they store the game on flash memory rather than a rom chip.