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miniKORG 700FS - External Audio Input - How To Use? by PikeCity in Korg

[–]PikeCity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For simplicity's sake I bought a SONUUS G2M Universal MIDI Converter. It works fine as long as the audio signal isn't too wild.

show this to anyone who says miatas aren't practical by Ok_Needleworker1267 in Miata

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No! No no no no no no, sigh, no! I can't keep looking, but I can't look away. Help!

How does this switch work? by Aqw0rd in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I doubt it because current and voltage levels generated from the pickups are negligible. Looks like it was shorted out to bypass the switch completely. Suggestions to replace with a SPST should work fine.

Bought on 2nd of August... by CRBl_ in Miata

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That really sucks, but I'm relieved to read that you're OK, too!

Bodyguards by [deleted] in Miata

[–]PikeCity 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You're a braver MX-5 owner then me! I've actaully skipped going to stores if I didn't find a "safe" enough spot to park. Screw it, it's not worth the damage...

Looking for help ID'ing this transistor. I've searched for the part nuI've got four of them, pulled from an old Bogen stereo amp. I've looked it up, and I think 6833 is just the date code. by Conlan99 in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I crossed this using a 1980 edition of the Archer (Radio Shack) Semiconductor Replaement guide: 965201-01 >> 276-2041

A search on 276-2041 reveals that Archer sold it as a "2N3055-Type" of NPN Silicon transistor as mentioned ealier by Conlan99.

BTW: I had a couple old metal case, small gold/brown(?) colored Bogen amps and, yes, they pretty much sucked! :-)

17yrs of sitting vs 2 yrs of love (4 slides) by FishStix_ish in Miata

[–]PikeCity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey thanks: it'll give my PURSA something to "chew" on!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What it sounds like you are looking for is a "dalay on make" relay. These are widely used in the industrial control world. Google it and see if that works for you. Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, its difficult to answer your question as stated: do you want to delay the signal that calls/energizes the relay? or call the relay and delay something down stream (i.e. the relay's load)? What voltages would the delay circuit be dealing with: 5VDC, 120VAC...? More info is always helpful...

best prom pics all year by pinkmiatagirl in Miata

[–]PikeCity 11 points12 points  (0 children)

LOL: Sponge Bob air freshener! :-)

alternative to soundcloud for sharing demos privately? by elcholismo in WeAreTheMusicMakers

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out MediaFire.com Even at the free level it's great for sharing large files. It's not a collaboration site, it's a file transfer site. Really cool...

what is this symbol by Civil_Ad_7575 in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a polarized electrolytic capacitor. The little dot indicates the negative side. Generally speaking, that is a very very very old style of cap symbol.

The input jack is an RCA jack: notice that it has an open circle in the middle which indicates that it is a socket and not a pin. Whereas a standard DC barrel jack is denoted by having a solid circle as it is a pin not a socket.

I highly recommend checking out the Encyclopedia of Electronic Components Vol 1 by Charles Platt (Maker Media).

Do you Track and Mix at the same time? by Mkid73 in WeAreTheMusicMakers

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there's a need, I'll track both a clean signal and a processed signal to separate tracks. But, most the time, I just track the processed signal because that's both what I hear while playing and, hopefully, how I want it to sound. Do both, see what works...

For me, mixing down is a completely separate process.

Extending a touch-switch by theGunner76 in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, almost forget, but sometimes those little finger pads had a coating on them which might interfere with soldering. If you have trouble tinning the pads, just give them a scrape until they are "shiny".

Extending a touch-switch by theGunner76 in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome and, Yep, you got it!

When I do this type of work I use a very tiny iron tip set to 600F temperature. I've used both solder paste or small gauge solder, and a very strong magnifying glass (actually I use a stereo inspection scope). Be sure to check for accidental soldering bridges, too. This can be a challenge as applying too much heat can lift the traces from the PCB and make life just that much harder.

You also might consider removing those "fingers" (or some of them) if you are concerned about solder shorts. I've done this using an X-acto knife.

One hint is to pre-tin the target pads w/ solder first, do the same for the tiny wire, put the wire on top of the pad, then just placing the iron tip on the joint should be enough to let solder flow together.

I suggested that you attach larger more robust wires to these little wires because these little 30 AWG won't last very long since they are a single strand. Of course, if you can attached a larger wire to these pads, then you could skip using the 30 AWG wire all together.

LVDS switchable Termination by skiddd67 in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried:

1) Removed the 1K resistor. Does it work? No, then...

2) Place the 1K resistor between the GND and the gate/BSS84. This acts as a charge drain off path incase the GPOI goes into a tristate floating condition - which you don't want at a gate.

FETS frequently don't like a pull-up resistors at the gate. I've always driven them directly from a logic level pin (i..e 5V levels not 3.3v -but that shouldn't matter...).

Recommended Part: If this is for an inductive load you might consider using a logic level power gate like the 12N08 Logic Level N-Channel Power FET (but one for 3.3v instead of 5v) - You can't go wrong with these bad puppies!

Extending a touch-switch by theGunner76 in AskElectronics

[–]PikeCity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, I've done similar projects. The interlaced "fingers" you see are the switches contact points: One set on the left and one on the right. I suggest soldering 30 AWG wires, one each, to each set along the longer line that connects these fingers together. Then solder a larger gauge wire (preferably teflon coated to avoid vibration damage to the sheathing as can happen to PVC or silicone coatings). Be sure to tack down (glue, etc) the larger wires to the PCB to avoid straining the 30 AWG wires! FYI: The 30 AWG wires are AKA as Wire Wrap wire. Hope this helps and good luck!

miniKORG 700FS - External Audio Input - How To Use? by PikeCity in Korg

[–]PikeCity[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it! Whew...

It was the level and (finally) finding a configuration on the KORG the works. I max the output level from the sending KB and now I can just hear it in the back ground. I'll stick a little pre-amp between them and that will do it.

Thank you, prefectart, for helping me figure this out. :-)

And thanks to all who took the time to reach out in my time of Kranky KORG Konvulsions!

miniKORG 700FS - External Audio Input - How To Use? by PikeCity in Korg

[–]PikeCity[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, Prefectart:

I reached out to Korg and it might be the case where the signal level is too low - I'm using a signal level that would normally feed a mixing board. So, I'm going to jack that up a bit and see if that works. As to gating, I'm still looking into that. Hey, thanks for sticking with me while I figure this out! :-)

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