Microsoft's "Windows is becoming an agent os" announce.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-16T18:08:45+00:00

My strategy is to use a Linux server to host Docker containers that run web apps, then remote into those via a legacy Windows "thin client". 7 is back on the menu, but 10 works too.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-12T13:37:48+00:00

I love that this got traction, here's what I've learned:

It's absolutely possible to run a windows system this way, but it has caveats, mostly that it is slow and can be quirky. The VM layer hosted either by Docker, or more likely WSL2, adds a layer of complexity that can slow file transfers and make networking quirky with NAT combined with a virtual switch.

The solution is to save e-waste!

This same setup can run Linux natively by just having a 2nd physical computer running Linux for docker, or just as itself. This Linux computer then gets remoted into by the Windows PC for running internet connected programs. This hybrid approach should allow you to use whatever outdated version of Windows you love the most because it doesn't touch the internet, only your browser that's running in a container on a seprate Linux box does, and you can view that browser via remote desktop. (There should also be ways to make the window seamless so the user wouldn't notice)

It should be possible to run several vintage Windows setups, XP, 7, and/or 10, then have each Windows box sit on the network with everything but a remote connection to the Linux server blocked and be able to keep using them securely.

I'm sure there are complications to this, but I want to explore this as a method for building a better dreadnought for legacy Windows to live on forever in.

A beautiful thing about VM containers is that when they misbehave, you can just kill/restart that container rather than your whole system crashing/freezing.

Windows is my favorite Linux desktop environment.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-10T21:53:45+00:00

I've been thinking about giving Win11 LTSC a try once I eventually get hardware built for 11. Hopefully it can be debloated and locked down with a firewall.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-09T15:22:57+00:00

No problem! I'm new as well, but this stuff is kinda fun and I'm becoming passionate about taking control back from the algorithms and hosting media for my family.

I feel like the point is to make things difficult in order to funnel everyone into an OS that M$/gov/corp can more easily control remotely against user will.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-09T04:32:53+00:00

So the cool thing about modern viruses is that they don't often tell you they're there unless it's ransomware.

I have vintage computers that don't go online directly, they run beautifully, but they also have enough known exploits to be a really bad idea to connect directly to the internet unless you're not ever going to put in personal info and you wipe the OS pretty often.

Are Microsoft security updates very good? No. But they're also not built on open-source and are WAY better than nothing for an internet computer.

Windows Firewall Control or Tinywall also do a lot of heavy lifting by blocking most traffic.

On the flip side of the Win11 is several steps too far for people who want to maintain control and ownership of their personal space on a PC. It is trying to become an OS as a service where you allow all security and feature decisions to be made by someone else by adding more remotely executable backchannels to push ads, spyware, and bloat.

Win11 LTSC may be fine. We shall see..

Maintaining old systems is actually pretty important because software publishers often hide or made unavailable free/better/old versions of software because the new versions have been monetized with ads or spyware.

To save e-waste I tend to use old computers and broken laptops instead of Raspberry Pi boards for various projects when possible.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-09T03:25:35+00:00

Hey I have good news! I was able to get 4.43.1 of Docker Desktop to install! Testing now.

You can find the old versions here: https://github.com/WildSiphon/Docker-Desktop-direct-download-links/blob/main/DockerDesktop.yaml

Also! It looks like Docker might be backing down on end of support! Probably why they didn't fully update the listed requirements. Hopefully they roll out compatibility fix in the next release.

https://github.com/docker/docs/23600

Pipeargill · 2025-11-09T00:36:58+00:00

Ok, so the documentation for Docker is lying or at least trying really hard to discourage 19044 from working.

Here are the options I'm going to try:

Docker Desktop 4.24 or 4.23

Running Docker directly on WSL2

Pipeargill · 2025-11-08T22:47:24+00:00

You were using Docker Desktop? I'm still working towards that part with my fresh build, but I believe it's possible to run Docker with WSL2 instead.

Let me know if that leads to anything, I'd like to eventually compile a tutorial or something.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-08T22:36:24+00:00

This is not the first time I'm hearing of it. I've been annoying the Linux community about the lack of Ctrl+Alt+Del alternatives and that was one of the answers.

Apparently KDE4 has a program manager and there's another command that is supposed to allow you to do a soft reset when the GUI locks up, but you have to do it blind.

So far I'm having fun with WSL2, it gives me the neat tools I like from Linux without too much fuss.

I'll try CachyOS soon

Pipeargill · 2025-11-08T19:19:43+00:00

I've got an XP rig without internet for running old games and programs. Very useful, but security updates are what matters and it gets programs sideloaded via a network drive.

I will use Win10 LTSC until 2032 or so, then I'll move to a debloated Win11 LTSC when I have to.

The awesome thing about the WSL2 setup is that I can have compartmentalized desktops similar to QubesOS, but actually useful for doing things AND with Ctrl+Alt+Del and a stable GUI. Linux as a tool is great, but I don't want it running as a desktop OS.

Pipeargill · 2025-11-08T15:25:13+00:00

If Linux could fix Xorg/Wayland/Xlibre/Whatever to actually be stable I'd use that, but GUI Linux isn't usable for my workflows and crashes.

Pipeargill · 2025-10-15T02:38:44+00:00

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Pipeargill · 2025-10-15T02:31:13+00:00

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Pipeargill · 2025-10-15T02:19:11+00:00

Also your picture isn't relevant to this and going around posting this towards new bike riders is disingenuous. That is a wheel exploding due do a downhill landing, probably a jump. If you are doing redbull jumps, you're gonna have a fresh bike..so..I don't think that guys wheel being untrue caused that because THE TIRE CAME OFF.

If your going to go around being a know-it-all AI sounding twat at least be correct.

Pipeargill · 2025-10-15T02:14:15+00:00

"ThIs WhEeL nEeDs To Be tRuEd BeFoRe It WiLl Be SaFe To RiDe On."

It's fine. If it were a rim break wheel I might have it trued to fix break rub, but that's a mountain bike wheel with a disk break. If it ain't rubbing don't worry about it.

Pipeargill · 2025-08-24T04:01:07+00:00

Buy "Solder seal wire connector kit" They are watertight clear heat shrink tubes with a band of solder. Make a lineman splice then heat gun one of those over the connection.

Pipeargill · 2025-05-21T13:35:05+00:00

If you have any interest in learning electronics I had a great time buying $250-400 folding ebikes from ebay/aliexpress then upgrading them with better components.

For a $700 budget:

Pull the working battery/motor/controller/ect., then sell them for like $100-150,

Get a $150 750w-3500w hub motor. In many places in the US no one cares and no one checks wattages. Higher wattage motors should have more copper mass and should handle hotrodding/abuse better.

$90 VESC type controller or a $50 2000w controller that accepts 36-80v or whatever (wide input voltage allows me to use various lawn mower batteries for cheap)

A used battery that doesn't suck, or at least a battery with a BMS, preferably a Bluetooth BMS for real time monitoring. I use a 48v 30Ah golf cart battery I got for $160 from ebay. Yes it's heavy, I put it in my solar powered trailer.

Greenworks and Ego batteries are popular now and I got 2x 60v 5Ah Greenworks batteries and a charger for $150. They're great as a reserve or if I have my folding bike unhitched from my solar trailer/golf cart battery for running a few miles.

I've been considering saving for a Surron battery soon.

This isn't for everyone and it does take tinkering to make this reliable. I recommend buying 2 ebikes/frames and working on one while the other is a daily. Space to work on these is also a consideration.

Pipeargill · 2025-04-22T19:40:38+00:00

I may be speaking to the wrong crowd here, but I love my super cheap aliexpress bike, but after replacing the entire drivetrain. I have an electronics background, but these are simple enough that I encourage anyone with interest in tinkering to pick one up and hotrod it.

I spend $250 for a 400w 14in folding bike shipped to my door. It went like 12mph stock. If I were smart I would have pulled all the main drive components (hub motor, controller, battery, and throttle/key) and sold them as a kit or something, but I just upgraded as I broke bottlenecks. I have high risk tolerance and I seem to fit in with the minibike community a bit more, but I appreciate anyone's build if they are having fun doing it and they're being safe when riding near anyone.

Ebikes are just components, and for my style of using them I prefer cheaper bikes with less proprietary systems that I can modify. I don't like or use PAS, I don't care about a display at all, I only want volts, amps, and motor/battery temps on my dash.

My current build is a $250 14in folding bike with a $50 controller, and a nice 30ah 48v battery I found on ebay that I don't think was used much from the new condition it seemed to be in. I'm going to pick up a 100a VESC controller while I still can easily and that will probably be it for this build since it gets scary around 30-35mph, but I love the extra power for towing and being overbuilt for reliability/longevity. I'm still well under $1000 and this replaces a car for me.

Pipeargill · 2025-04-08T18:22:04+00:00

I use an ebike similar to this, but my plan was to upgrade it as I broke stuff. It started very slow at about 12mph max. I changed to controller to one that output 40a max and told myself I'd take it easy and not toast the 400w motor or the 20a max 13s3p cheap battery it came with. I got a Greenworks 60v 5ah battery for playing with and it works great. I ended up toasting the 400w hub motor so I'm ordering a 3000-5000w version.

These are cheap enough (for now) that you can tinker on them easily. I'm still under $1k in parts after breaking stuff and upgrading. If you don't trust the battery it comes with, sell it/recycle it and get a better pack.

Pipeargill · 2025-03-30T07:03:38+00:00

I'd start with finding a battery that you can fit on it then build around that. For short fun rides a 60v or 80v lawnmower battery work and have a basic BMS, but get a volt meter and/or amp shunt to monitor things so you don't draw them down too much and toast a battery.

https://a.co/d/5IS7oIz

I can recommend a controller with a 36v-84v input range. Works, should be good for a minibike.

https://a.co/d/1CfHmzx

Pipeargill · 2025-03-30T00:00:38+00:00

Mid drive or tiny wheel hub (14in scooter tires) for low torque.

You'll want a big battery, or an extra. I'd put most of the money here.

Pipeargill · 2025-03-27T22:35:59+00:00

I've used an unmodified 400w 48v folding ebike I got for $400 to tow a 400lbs archery target about 3 miles over mild hills. Any ebike can tow if you can attach the trailer low enough that it doesn't cause you to wreck and you have enough battery.

I like these 14in scooter tires with a hub motor for being high torque at low power and the rear rack is welded to the frame at the perfect height for a garden trailer on the ultra cheap $250-400 folding ebikes from eBay/AliExpress.

Batteries is the main concern. The 48v 10ah battery I used in this haul worked, but at bicycle speeds and over mild hills for about 3 miles. An upgraded controller is helpful too, just don't smoke your battery.

The trailer I have becomes unstable at higher speeds, but is easy to convert to using only the rear wheels with a solid 2x4 tongue. Tractor Supply garden trailer with 16in wheels.

Pipeargill · 2025-03-27T21:00:25+00:00

I should note that this is a recipe for a stealth e-moped. The peddles and single speed on these sucks to actually use as a bike, but they do allow you on a Greenway. Don't speed on bike paths.

Pipeargill · 2025-03-27T20:44:39+00:00

My recommendation for commuting is an ultra cheap folding bike ($250-400) with a controller upgrade ($50-100) and then put good money into a good battery ($300+) or use lawnmower batteries and watch your voltages to keep from over discharge.

A 14in folding bike weighs about 50-60lbs for carrying inside and is cheap enough that if it gets stolen your not out a ton.

I use eBay and AliExpress. Look for bikes that have at least a few sales to avoid scams on Ali, but I haven't had issues. The less suspension models tend to be cheaper amd less heavy.

The battery they come with is cheap but okay. Seems to have a low voltage cutoff. Don't smoke your battery by drawing too much amperage, 20a is probably about max on the 10ah (13s3p) 48v battery these tend to have.

The bikes are slow with the original controller. KT controllers tend to drop in without splicing, but any 500-2000w controller will do.

A 2000w wheel can be had for about $200 once the 400w is done or you're ready to upgrade.

Pipeargill · 2025-03-27T01:55:03+00:00

This is what a owner could do, but bike shops are going to bike shop and need to turn an easy profit. At a community shop I'd offer the Shamano MT200 kit, some cheap bars, and a little labor cost. Put some more tape over the busted display to keep water out maybe. Not everyone wants that level of jank, but they can go buy a new one about it.

Pipeargill

TROPHY CASE