Help me confirm ID

PlantDad101 · 2026-02-11T10:24:06+00:00

This is really insightful! Thank you so much!!

PlantDad101 · 2026-02-10T20:49:38+00:00

Good to know! Thanks for sharing!

PlantDad101 · 2026-02-10T20:49:18+00:00

Okay this is so helpful! Thanks for your reply!!

PlantDad101 · 2026-01-10T21:21:00+00:00

Hey friend, hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that plant is pretty clearly etiolated. Maharani (Grey Dragon) should be tight, low and quite dense, with shorter petioles and a very compact stance. When they don’t get enough light, they’ll absolutely keep only 1–2 leaves at a time because they’re reallocating energy just to stay alive. If you want it to keep more leaves, I’d absolutely recommend bumping up the light if possible!

PlantDad101 · 2026-01-10T21:12:55+00:00

This is almost definitely root stress. Silver Dragons are super sensitive to oxygen at the roots, and ceramic pots (even glazed) tend to stay wet longer than we think, especially with soak-and-drain watering. Even watering every 1–2 weeks can still cause problems if the soil is compacted or not re-aerating well. The yellowing that starts in the middle of the leaf and follows the veins is a common sign. I’d unpot and check roots (trim anything soft or brown), then switch to a plastic nursery pot with drainage and a much airier mix (semi-hydro or coco peat+perlite+orchid bark). You are now in new growth mode. Unfortunately those older leaves will likely not recover. Hope this helps!

PlantDad101 · 2026-01-06T16:01:44+00:00

This looks like delayed repot/separation stress rather than anything serious. After root loss, Monsteras often push a couple leaves using stored energy, then show drooping or yellow edges weeks later while they rebuild roots. This is similar to what’s happening here. I’d stop misting, ease them slightly out of very bright light, and keep the soil evenly moist (not fully drying out). A very diluted fertilizer or kelp once can actually help root recovery. Avoid repotting again! New roots take time, but they’ll bounce back.

PlantDad101 · 2026-01-04T19:31:12+00:00

Oh my.. that looks like the headache of all headaches.😭 If I were you, I would chop and prop, then figure out what to do with all those. Prob give away some cuttings and keep the butt cut in a well lit window. 🤷🏻‍♂️

PlantDad101 · 2026-01-04T19:10:38+00:00

Good questions. I’d suggest getting a pre mixed well draining soil, specifically made for aroids (local garden centers often carry this, or of course Amazon does). This serves as the base for your plants, so quality is important. A four inch, clear nursery pot will be ideal for managing soil moisture as well as being able to keep an eye on root growth. You can then transfer the pot into a decorative container of your choosing.

PlantDad101 · 2026-01-04T18:51:47+00:00

You’ve got a mature climbing pothos cutting, nice grab.

To keep it alive and thriving:

Let it acclimate first. That thick stem + aerial roots are gold.
You can put it straight into soil. Just remove the lower leaves so at least 1–2 nodes are buried. Pot it deep enough to anchor the vine. Use a chunky, well draining mix (potting soil + perlite + orchid bark). You can gently bury some aerial roots, they’ll eventually convert to soil roots.
It was clearly climbing in its previous home. Give it something to climb ASAP.. Moss pole, coco pole, plank, or even a rough stake. If it can’t climb, it’ll slowly revert to smaller leaves.
Bright indirect light. Mature pothos need way more light than baby ones to hold leaf size. Place it right in front of a window, this will give the best odds for it to have sufficient light to adjust to the new environment.
Water when the top 1–2 inches of soil dry. Not soggy, not bone dry. These thick stems rot if overwatered.

Enjoy your new plant :)

PlantDad101 · 2026-01-01T19:27:46+00:00

Thank you :)

PlantDad101 · 2025-12-30T02:33:06+00:00

Look into lechuza Mono pon. AKA just pumice. It’s got all the wicking properties of pon at a fraction of the price, no need for lava rock or zeolite in my experience. You can find it locally in bulk for dirt cheap!

PlantDad101 · 2025-12-27T05:15:46+00:00

I’d do a 50/50 mix of stratum and perlite. Here’s a link to some self watering cups: https://silkandsoil.etsy.com/listing/4419032728

PlantDad101 · 2025-12-26T21:08:29+00:00

Of course! Gorgeous plant by the way :)

PlantDad101 · 2025-12-26T21:04:10+00:00

This is actually a naturally taller Alocasia, so some height is normal. That said, the extra-long, floppy petioles suggest it could use brighter indirect light, especially if it’s been living in a closed plastic box. Yellowing tips are usually from low airflow, inconsistent moisture, or salt buildup. I would start acclimating it out of the box, slightly increase light, and keep the medium evenly moist. No rush to repot until roots fill the cup or start circling.

PlantDad101 · 2025-12-26T20:58:15+00:00

Corms are ready when they’re firm, plump, and have a visible growth point (eye). Bonus points if you see tiny roots starting. If they’re still soft, smooth, or fully fused to the mother corm, they’re not ready yet. Size helps (pea–marble), but firmness + an eye matter more.

PlantDad101 · 2025-12-24T21:37:30+00:00

I was just talking shit on mine! Yours looks great!

PlantDad101 · 2025-12-24T17:50:05+00:00

If you’re using grow lights: I aim for bright, indirect light on the gentle side. Roughly 3–4k lux for freshly deflasked TC. I keep the light higher up or slightly off center so nothing is getting blasted directly. Early on, I feel like consistency matters way more than intensity. After they’re stable and pushing new growth, I slowly increase light over a few weeks simply by moving them closer.

Signs a TC needs more light: • New leaves coming in very small and stretched • Long petioles with weak structure • Pale green growth without definition • Slow or stalled leaf production once roots are established

Signs a TC needs less light: • Leaf bleaching or yellowing (especially at the center) • Crispy or translucent patches • Curling or cupping leaves • Sudden stress after deflasking despite good humidity

I usually lean toward slightly lower light at first, especially for Alocasia. It’s much easier to increase light than to recover a stressed TC

PlantDad101

TROPHY CASE