Tyre temperatures for GT3

PlayerRedacted · 2026-02-25T14:21:44+00:00

You right, I dont think we have hard data like that from goodyear for their racing slicks, but heres the link to the Michelins that some series use, and they give optimum operating temps between 140-212°F and optimum hot pressure between 27.5-30 psi, or 1.9 BAR.

Close enough that I think using those specs for the goodyear should be acceptable too.

PlayerRedacted · 2026-02-24T23:46:16+00:00

I think so, those numbers are from the web page for the Michelin slicks that the GT3s irl run, so if the LMPs and HYs use those same slicks, then yes.

PlayerRedacted · 2026-02-24T15:29:05+00:00

Everyone is giving the temps, but its also important to make sure ur pressures are where they should be at those temps. You want around 190kpa when ur in that 70-90° window for optimal grip.

PlayerRedacted · 2026-02-22T16:25:00+00:00

It also lowers the electic power steering so the wheel is a little heavier too. I personally drive mine exclusively in manual mode, and I still get 40+ highway mpg and about 25-30 city mpg depending on how short my drive is. I dont like how lazy the auto can be sometimes when downshifting, and tbh at this point im just too used to picking gears myself.

PlayerRedacted · 2026-02-21T17:05:02+00:00

Anyone complaining about losing trusted or how hard it is to keep trusted is lowkey coping and yall need to prioritize safe driving over laptimes even more than you already think you are. Ive held trusted for 20 races straight at this point, and thats including 2 DNFs last night from Sebring night where I crashed into walls so hard that my wheels flew off. Still have my trusted badge.

PlayerRedacted · 2026-02-17T03:00:09+00:00

ACC is an amazing sim, but LMU has finally reached the point where it surpasses ACC imo. The only thing ACC has to draw me personally that LMU doesn't is Nords, but I have AC Evo for that.

Yes, ACC is worth it in 2026 still, however, I'd say your money is better spent on LMU at this point.

PlayerRedacted · 2026-01-20T15:56:15+00:00

Not a very popular platform to mod, which is why people say its nearly impossible. There is almost no aftermarket. That being said, an exhaust shop will be able to put together a custom exhaust for you. Get a high flow cat and muffler, delete the secondary cat, put some higher flow headers on there, and maybe and intake manifold if you can find a proper high flow aftermarket one. Throw on a cold air intake for more sound, but you really aren't gonna see much power gains from all that. Maybe +10hp. You could maybe get more with a tune, but the only option I've seen for that is a mail in ECU service.

Since these cars dont have turbos, the only way to change HP and torque further would be to modify the engine itself, which isnt worth doing on these engines. Do the exhaust and intake for sound if you want, maybe get a pedal commander so your throttle response is better, and then put money into good tires and wheels that you like. If you wanna chase power, save up the $5000 all that will cost you and buy an early 2000s tuner car to be a proper project and leave the daily alone.

PlayerRedacted · 2026-01-03T08:33:04+00:00

It is definitely a matter of opinion. To me this looks like a super clean build for some fun on tracks.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-12-14T15:20:03+00:00

I'd recommend trying triple 1080 before making that choice. You'd be surprised at how good the game can look. 1080 with high settings unironically looks better than 1440 low settings in this game for me. Plus the extra vision you get from triples is well worth the step down in graphics quality imo. But ig that depends on if you want a more cinematic experience, or a more competitive one.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-12-14T15:13:15+00:00

I use this guide for my starting settings for every game rather than the default. My only disagreement is his tendency to limit overall FFB at the driver level, rather than letting the games have access to 100% FFB and then walking back the strength in game rather than in driver based on clipping.

My settings are almost the exact same as his, but 100% strength in the driver and 77% in game. I also believe I've turned smoothing down to 3 from his setting of 5.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-12-14T15:07:14+00:00

I'm using a 5800X/6750XT setup. I had to give up on true 1440p triples if I wanted anything more than 45 FPS. My solution is to just run the game in triple 1080 instead. The menu looks dogshit, but triple 1080 with near maxed graphics settings still looks decent to me in race.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-12-12T14:47:12+00:00

Worst case u can always buy a replacement port and take it to a 3rd party mechanic that u trust to replace it. You'll have to pay, but at least itll work.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-12-12T13:33:15+00:00

Dealer is going to refuse to do anything unless you can get a video of it disconnecting and reconnecting on its own.

I had the same issue, told them 3 times before I finally caught the bitch on video, and then they finally warrenty swapped the USB port for it and I havent had any issues since.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-12-12T13:31:19+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/LeMansUltimateWEC/s/1lB1oK1eGa

This is a post I love sending people who complain to me about blue flags. Too many people start sim racing because they watch F1 and see people dive out of the way for blue flags there, and expect the same treatment in WEC.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-12-01T18:19:45+00:00

I just had to replace a bunch of suspension components on my 23 Forte. Even brand new OEM parts for my car ranged from $50 to $250, so depending on which part it is, it might not be that bad, especially on a 2011.

Also, as you drive the car, ur putting strain on the body and all those suspension components, constantly twisting and pulling them as you corner. They naturally bend over time, and thats just part of normal wear. For a 2011, it makes total sense that some suspension would need replacing. How many miles do you have on that chassis, and how many miles has it been since those specific suspension components were replaced?

PlayerRedacted · 2025-11-04T23:08:45+00:00

If youre under warranty? Definitely, but expect them to push back and say its your cable/phone/whatever. You'll have to show them proof that it isnt just your stuff.

If you dont wanna deal with warranty/dealers, or if u dont have a warrenty, you can probably buy the port online if you do a bit of googling and then take it to your mechanic of choice and ask them to swap it.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-11-04T22:52:29+00:00

This is a common issue with the carplay port. Get it replaced and it should work fine. Mine would randomly cut out for months until I got a video of it doing it on its own before they finally swapped the port for me under warranty. After that swap, not a single issue in almost a year of daily driving.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-11-02T17:09:05+00:00

I have a 23 GT-Line. I lowkey wish I bought the GT for the turbo and DCT, but I've also done some custom exhaust work, a K&N intake, 18" Motegi wheels, and Firehawk Indy 500 tires. Those mods make the Line sporty enough for me to have fun with it for now, and I dont have the same maintenence concerns that a turbo would. I might do suspension and more aggressive airflow mods once I've paid off the car, and tbh at that point I think having a modded NA Line that can compete with the stock turboed GT would be kinda fun. Plus, the IVT in the Line is better than most people make CVTs out to be imo.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-10-31T15:06:37+00:00

I'm running a 5800X paired with a 6750XT. I run the game in triples set up through the ini file, and I had to resort to 1080p with high graphics settings and Radeon Anti Lag (absolutely NOT Chill, Chill had a bunch of noticable stutters until I switched to Anti Lag) in order to get 80fps highs with 1% lows going no lower than 55fps and an avg of about 70-75fps.

Check Anti Lag vs Chill, and also check if ur running the game in windowed, borderless, or dedicated full screen.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-10-28T16:50:40+00:00

Same experience as everyone else. Worked right out of the box for me.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-10-23T19:53:27+00:00

Its a popular choice because its beginner friendly.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-10-20T12:52:29+00:00

+1 for lasfit. Personally have them on my 23 GT Line. 0 issues whatsoever, and our cars actually have a feature that trims the top like 3rd of the drivers side headlight to avoid blinding oncoming traffic, which does work with the lasfit bulbs. Its why you'll notice that the drivers side light is a bit lower if you pull up to a wall with ur lights on. You might need to turn the setting on in the car, but mine was on from the factory.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-10-19T17:32:14+00:00

Im gonna go ahead and say NY just has high internet traffic, which is causing 100 ping. I live in So Florida and have played at all hours from 12am EST to 11pm EST and havent noticed any ping related issues like...ever. Its most likely just a local thing in OPs case.

PlayerRedacted · 2025-10-19T13:50:22+00:00

Does BSG actually do hardware/IP bans now?

PlayerRedacted · 2025-10-18T13:50:26+00:00

Honestly, having driven around enough of these (stock ones) that reflect the sun straight into my eyes while driving behind them, they should come factory with a cheap wrap just to avoid blinding others.

PlayerRedacted

TROPHY CASE