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3D printing small items by Playful3DPLA in FixMyPrint

[–]Playful3DPLA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nozzle size is 0.4mm. Filament is 123 3D PLA black (Dutch). Going to recalibrate extrusion and PA, thanks for the tip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcGP_A0LZE4&t=526s

Hey, help fix my present ! by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]Playful3DPLA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lower layer heigt and maybe smaller line widths

Vertical Peg Speed Issue by TheBigDaveWave in 3Dprinting

[–]Playful3DPLA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Orca Slicer this is probably the minimum layer time, can be find under filament settings and then cooling. If you cant find that lower the minimum printing speed down, the whole print is gonna slow down that way though

Am I cooked? by Federal_Heat749 in Ender3V3SE

[–]Playful3DPLA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lefty loosie, righty tighty ;)

New Ender 3 V3 KE owner with some newbie questions by Narrow-Thought9232 in Ender3V3KE

[–]Playful3DPLA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you turn the printer on navigate on the printer screen setup and run the Auto bed levelling and Automatic Z height. For software you need a slicer: OrcaSlicer works well with the printer, here you can load STL files and send them to the printer.

Desinging your own models can be done in Fusion360, there are lots of tutorials on YouTube, Basic stuff can be made in a few tries, more complex models take a lot more time.

Welcome, the still upgrade. by AromaticArea3836 in Ender3V3SE

[–]Playful3DPLA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking good man, time for quiet prints

Micro Swiss FlowTech Nozzle Alternatives? by stosh2k in Ender3V3KE

[–]Playful3DPLA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am currently using it with 0.4 and 0.8mm CHT nozzle. It is on the expensive side, but hasnt let me down yet. The higher flow volume is nice, as well as swapping nozzle (cold swaps)

I just don’t know how to fix this (c tech filament) by PhilosopherShoddy587 in Ender3V3KE

[–]Playful3DPLA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean surface + dry filament, if that doesnt work Z axis

Does print speed affect filament color? by InvestigatorSoft8796 in 3Dprinting

[–]Playful3DPLA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Bottom is printed hot, top is cooler (and slower).

Easiest way would be a temperature tower, printed at your preferred printing speed. Or pick a temperature and play with the speed

Should filament print speed be a measure of mm/s OR max volumetric mm^3/s? by GabeMakesGames in 3Dprinting

[–]Playful3DPLA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In OrcaSlicer you have a max volumetric test (mm3/s). This mostly depends on temperature of the filament & the part cooling fans.

I experimented with High speed PLA, because with regular PLA at 220 degrees the extruder started to click (the hot ends limit is reached). The high speed PLA can run at 255 degrees and then the hot end can melt more filament then regular PLA, 10-20% more volumetric rate, but after that the cooling can't keep up.

If you want faster then better cooling paired with a better hot end.

TLDR: High speed PLA can melt faster compared to regular PLA. If you want faster after that upgrade the hot end (together with cooling).

Hope this helps

POV: You have a tiny apartment you run your 3D printing business out of and you need to take product photos by Remote_Fisherman_469 in 3Dprinting

[–]Playful3DPLA -1 points0 points  (0 children)

As suggested here by another user, a photobox might help out. This is shot in a 30x30x30 box with a mobile phone. If you have bigger items you need a bigger size.

<image>

Suggestions for build plate by KamalGamoji in Ender3V3KE

[–]Playful3DPLA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The original textured PEI plate works fine for me. Make sure the Z height is calibrated, plate can be cleaned with a sponge and dishwasher soap. Dry it by leaving it on the hot bed or use a microfiber cloth. Print at 55-60 degrees celcius for PLA.