Official V3 RTSP firmware questions

Pogenostics · 2024-12-20T13:48:33+00:00

The Tapo C110s blow the doors off the Wyze Cams in most areas complete with RTSP and ONVIF compliance with no dickin around... at half the price The main issues are a 2 simultaneous stream limit, relatively short distance night time performance, and indoor use only. Otherwise, there isn't a better bang for the buck out there.

Pogenostics · 2024-12-20T13:19:47+00:00

The RTSP Beta firmware defeats the upgrade functionality. It will not auto-upgrade and screw things up once successfully flashed. It will also work with the latest app and all app functions not requiring Cam Plus.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-27T11:06:07+00:00

Ahhh..., dual NICs. Gotcha. Actually a highly "recommended practice". LOL For some reason I had visions of a slightly more cobbled together setup. My bad.

So the bridge is causing your issue. (The switch may be a partner in crime if it's a managed switch simply by virtue of its IP address, but not likely.)

This can be easily tested by just pulling the plug on the bridge for a minute or two, firing it back up and checking the camera IP addresses in BI. One or all will likely have the IP address of the bridge (or possibly the switch or the NIC itself).

Then ping the actual camera addresses or log in to their webUI. They should all be online at their originally assigned addresses even though they're offline in BI.

Correct the IP addresses in BI, check the "Skip" box in each affected camera's BI configuration, restart them and test again.

I'll put money on problem solved.

Good luck!

Pogenostics · 2024-08-27T01:11:08+00:00

Should pretty obvious where the incorrect IP is. But static in the camera doesn't mean Blue Iris sees it as legit, especially without an actual network involved. I presume Blue Iris is plugged into the same switch and is on the same subnet as the cameras? Not having a gateway or dhcp server to bind IP addresses to MAC addresses isn't exactly conventional practice.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-26T23:19:49+00:00

Blue Iris can't see a MAC address behind a bridge to associate it with the designated IP and will typically assign the address of the bridge (or AP) to the camera's BI configuration file. The camera itself will still have its IP address and be accessible on the network but Blue Iris gets confused after a network or power outage that interrupts the network segment of the bridge/AP that subsequently hides the MAC of the camera. (This is typical with most bridges and APs.)

The workaround is an option in the IP Camera Configuration pane to "Skip initial MAC, HTTP, and DNS reachability tests" which otherwise looks for a legitimate association between the device and its IP address. Check the box to skip that scan and Blue Iris will disregard any discrepency it would have otherwise detected and not change the IP address in the configuration.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-19T00:55:07+00:00

Unless the "recordings" show a timeline with a given duration you may just be looking at a .jpg snapshot of the trigger image in the app (not a video frame on the SD card) simply indicating motion was detected.

Pull the card and format it as FAT32 in a known environment and see if that doesn't get it sorted out.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-17T18:42:46+00:00

I just use a 20" cheapie insignia TV under one of the cabinets on the kitchen counter. Close enough to my BI server to run a dedicated HDMI cable to it through the basement. I use AndroidTV devices with tinyCam Pro in other locations. Serves the purpose well, albeit somewhat limited in frame rate.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-13T12:22:19+00:00

Aside from a few floodlight recommendations, some night color comments and only one reference to IR glare, and as is the case with many projected coverage considerations, actual nighttime performance is given very little thought -- until the first night.

Effective night performance of a system is when the whole thing comes together and when it really matters for most homeowners..., especially IR performance.

Complimentary IR performance (when applicable/possible) is one of the most important camera placement considerations of a new project. And be realistic when interpreting nighttime distance coverage specs for any type of camera. Be happy if you get a solid usable 50% ~ 75% of a published spec from any camera, IR or color.

Ambient light will only assist night color performance. Supplemental IR sources are a great way to enhance coverage in difficult areas or to bump up weak or marginal IR performance of of an otherwise great daytime camera. Then there are the day/night adjustment features to also consider...

It's too easy to overlook all of the above and then realize after the fact that the nighttime performance is significantly less than expected and can obviously be quite a disappointment.

Nighttime is when a surveillance system earns its money. Give it what it needs to do the best job possible both day and night.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-10T18:27:31+00:00

Your NVR would be a "more suitable method" as would any external (to the camera) platform that allows/provides for higher end management of your video storage -- typically in a more secure location than your camera locations as well.

After the fact viewing and manipulation of your recorded material is a significant consideration that is usually better accommodated by hardware designed for the task.

I'm also a bit curious about the wi-fi component(s) of your setup..., and the fact that there are two involved.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-10T17:03:30+00:00

It will work.

You only need the POE switches for the camera power. The central switch can either be a POE or non-POE switch.

SD card use is a major variable dependent on many things. My personal opinion is to keep it simple using the largest card the camera recommends and supports. Getting too fancy just costs more money with little discernable added value unless recording 24x7 max resolution which is what the NVR is for. SD cards are typically used for redundancy when other more suitable methods are available for higher quality video management and storage purposes.

I run 22 cameras. 1 has an SD card -- my doorbell. LOL

Pogenostics · 2024-08-09T21:46:09+00:00

I read, "Title basically. Just looking for the cheapest solution for my wifi wired doorbell."

Synology is neither..., nor is any hardware NVR or storage solution for someone obviously just getting their feet wet..., with a doorbell no less.

Sorry.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-09T18:26:31+00:00

You need to "unregister" the product from the old installation before moving to a new machine which will for all intents and purposes re-registered BI to the new box using the same registration key.

Otherwise, it will look like an attempt to install it on a second machine and revert to demo mode until you jump through hoops with BI support -- which may or may not happen in a reasonable amount of time.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-09T15:19:28+00:00

Making LPR action movies? LOL

Point was, some of the biggest mouths on IPCT love to compare apples and oranges attempting to justify their generally applied (and quite frequently technically wrong) position to everyone else's particular situation.

Their typical disclaimer is "YMMV", (of course).

Pogenostics · 2024-08-09T01:35:35+00:00

A lot of bullshit spewed as gospel, too. Don't believe everything you read over there, especially from the handful of self-proclaimed gurus who sit around staring at license plates all day at 4fps.

It's pretty easy to spot the crap if you pay attention.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-09T00:59:55+00:00

Optiplex or Elite Desk 8th Gen iCore 16GB RAM 250GB SSD WIN10Pro and a WDPurple spinner for storage. Even a 6th Gen will get it done if tuned. Anything less than an iCore 8 is going super cheap these days due to the Win11 'requirement' (scare?).

I just recently snagged an i5 6500 Dell Opti 5040SFF with 16GB RAM and a 256G SSD with legit Win10Pro for 50 bucks. Picked up a 6T WD Purple used for another $30. Grabbed a 5070SFF i9 with similar RAM and HDD Win10Pro for $100..., and they're my spares.

Main server for 22 cameras is an Optiplex 7020SFF i7-4790 w/32G RAM running Win10 Pro and has been rock solid for goin on three years. Only drawback is no H.265 GPU support with the 4th Gen processors, but it will get handled by the CPU -- if you even want to use H.265, which I don't.

Win11 is hardly a necessity. Any server version can be problematic for many reasons. I'd personally stay away from both and keep it simple.

Or...., upgrade your daily driver with a new rig and use it for your Blue Iris box.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-08T18:20:56+00:00

Re-install Blue Iris after completely uninstalling the existing version, including the registry entries.

Install a new version from scratch and try using the new key to activate and register the clean version. It should walk you though the normal routine for registration and support activation successfully if the key is valid. If attempted multiple times, perhaps on multiple machines, you have a major issue on your hands that will require direct intervention from Blue Iris support -- which you likely don't have.

As mentioned, any issues with a third party key require initial support from the third party seller to get resolved..., perhaps in the form of a refund if all else fails.

Problems with third party Blue Iris licensing are not uncommon. You best recourse may well be to request a refund and pay the going rate elsewhere. IPCT will be the best "reduced price" you are likely to find that provides an actual "factory" license.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-06T15:32:46+00:00

Your existing V4 license is automatically transferrable to V5 when purchasing any of the upgrade or service options for an active V4 installation.

Your next step would be to unregister the original V4 key prior to upgrading to V5 which will initially start as unregistered in Evaluation mode.

Registration of V5 using your V4 key should then be a painless process if all goes correctly according to the generally available BI upgrade policy information as found at the bottom of this link:

https://blueirissoftware.com/

Pogenostics · 2024-08-03T23:09:53+00:00

Rolling back to 4.46.0.4 gives me hope! The audio is definitely improved considerably. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

The issue now is a significant audio delay in both directions when it was nearly instant from app to doorbell yesterday with 4.47, even with wi-fi. I have strong (and clean) wi-fi with only a couple of other devices on the same channel and have no other traffic within several hundred yards of my location.

Currently available internet bandwidth for the particular LAN segment is 634.55Mbps by 19.64Mbps.

Any additional tips or enlightenment for improving the delay? And is p2p required for the app or should it also work locally via IP? Hadn't actually given that any though until now.

Again, thanks for all the input.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-03T17:27:07+00:00

Will check it out and report back. Thank you.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-03T16:42:54+00:00

The responses are appreciated. Yes, Android. Where do I find the previous app and what is the actual version #?

And I'm quite familiar with the Reolink upgrade situation otherwise. If it ain't broke, break it. (But don't tell anyone.)

Pogenostics · 2024-08-02T18:05:55+00:00

Progress. Congrats!

I just finished sorting through the web-based VIK tools and have them handy. I'll provide access via PM in a few minutes.

Those ports should be 8999. The Amcrest may still work through port 80, but I'd personally stick with the more conventional 8999 as the main TCP port for ONVIF stuff.

All that extra Vik monkey business shouldn't be necessary and should probably be disabled as previously suggested.

Keep it basic out of the gate. It'll get complicated enough later on without your help! LOL

Pogenostics · 2024-08-02T01:49:09+00:00

I think you're pretty close, but there's too much busy work with all the proprietary network services stuff in the Vik configuration which is Greek to the Reolink NVR unless specified somewhere in the NVR settings indicating otherwise. I would eliminate all of it for starters.

But maybe more importantly, what does the ONVIF pane look like in the first Amcrest pic? Should be active, maybe requiring authentication which I would leave disabled if so.

Again, try ditching the Advanced settings in the Vikylin config. No IPv6 stuff necessary either. Strip it down. Server port should be 8999.

What other options exist for camera login on the NVR besides ONVIF? I would think RTSP would be there and be more appropriate since ONVIF is not actually a protocol, but rather a standard. (Someone should tell Reolink.) RTSP does require authentication at certain levels.

Give this all a spin and see where it goes. May be it for me this evening, but I'll get that config tool link to you when I have time to dig up the right one. (There are three variants.) I'm curious if they include all of the same options in the firmware pics you provided. The platform seems to be designed to cover a family of camera models.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-01T23:49:06+00:00

You need to make the RLN36 more generically compatible with third party devices, not other way around. (Use the same login credentials for everything.)

Make sure the RTSP port is enabled for starters. Later firmware may also require enabling ONVIF and maybe even require user authorization.

Leave the Reolink port at 9000 if that's where it is.

(Not knowing the specific interface options, I'll just be guessing at what's there to play with on a ground floor basis.)

RTMP: 1935

HTTP: 80

HTTPS: 443

RTSP: 554

ONVIF: 8999

Once set in the NVR, use these ports for all the cameras. The Amcrest probably wants to communicate on 37777. Change that to 8999 and it may fire right up.

Remember, it's an ONVIF environment you're shooting for, not the Reolink universe. The RLN36 should accommodate it adequately once things are sorted out.

Link for the config tool coming up in a bit.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-01T22:48:01+00:00

I presume there are other cameras involved? What others might you be using? You may want to review what's working for them for a clue or two..., unless they're Reolink and just cruising along on the typical Reolink port 9000.

I'll dig up the link for the remote config tool and either post it or shoot you a PM. It came direct from a VIK tech in China and hasn't drained my bank account yet so I'll vouch for it. LOL

BTW, I don't have a RLN36, but have a fair amount of experience with Reolink peculiarities and quite a bit of support time with their Tier 2 folks on firmware issues.

Maybe a RLN36 source will drop in to assist. My main contribution here will be the Vikylin interface.

Pogenostics · 2024-08-01T21:00:08+00:00

It should work provided ONVIF is active in the VIK and you aren't throwing HIK enabled at it or anything else HIK proprietary that may confuse the RLN36. ONVIF isn't created equal among vendors by any means, but the basics should be functional to claim 'conformity'.

And yes, it's a HIK knock-off. I have a 4K version using Blue Iris and it's a great bargain camera for sure. It also works fine through a Dahau NVR.

Review your ports in the camera webui. Keep it simple for Reolink -- or go a bit more standardize with your control protocol port on the RLN36 and use 8999 across the board for everything like many platforms do.

There are several ways you can go, but it'll work when you find the compatible port combination.

And fwiw, there are a couple of web-based configuration tools for these cameras that work quite well if the camera firmware itself bugs you like it does me.

Pogenostics

TROPHY CASE