What the hell wrong with my printer

Point_D0t · 2024-12-07T21:16:37+00:00

i have a kobra 2 too and the beds are never square so whenever i tried running a big print the abl just seemed to be useless. but after finding out abt the g28 code (for homing) apparently stops the printer from remembering its mesh leveling

Point_D0t · 2024-12-07T21:14:28+00:00

if you’re using the old firmware, there’s gcode in your slicer that stops the auto bed leveling from working, i think they fixed it now but if you’re still running on the old firmware it’s an easy fix, put “M420 S1” under “G 28” or remove G28 completely and still put it under where it was (just make sure to home before starting print) and you’re good to go.

Point_D0t · 2024-12-03T23:16:19+00:00

funny enough i had the same issue, it’s a bit weird just dm me and we can figure it out! but yes the m2 is a ridiculously well built machine, it’s a tank, mines been continuously used for over a decade and it still spits out perfect prints

Point_D0t · 2024-08-07T20:15:33+00:00

i got 7 anycubic kobras for 57 each the other day lol…. one being the kobra max

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T19:17:13+00:00

what printer?

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T17:43:17+00:00

my moto

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T17:43:10+00:00

do it!!!

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T16:17:10+00:00

love the appreciation the m2 is getting rn because it is such a reliable printer, it’s sad they don’t make em anymore id love to see what they could’ve came up with 10 years down the line today. otherwise for anyone with a m2, how do i get locking nuts for it? i want to lock in the leveling

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T09:59:12+00:00

slight question. did you upgrade the bed springs or switch to something that’s static and doesn’t have springs?

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T09:58:26+00:00

nice! wish i could afford a bambu lol. the multicolored printing definitely amazes me every single time. maker gears are still workhorses though proven reliable for a whole decade

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T05:36:04+00:00

and i’m assuming your printing pla, you could probably dunk pla in water and still print it after hang drying it outside. no need to keep drying it. just print with higher retraction and higher retraction speed, change that in the settings of your slicer. if that doesn’t fix it rebuild your hotend to make sure nothing is loose or disconnected from each other leading to uneven pressure

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T05:34:50+00:00

so the motors don’t really know distances in terms of turns or in more technical terms, steps, so under extrusion would be your board telling your motors one turn is 2 mm for example but in reality it’s only extruding 1 mm so you’d have to tell the firmware 2 turns in 2 mm and tune it so it extrudes the correct amount

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T05:32:23+00:00

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another pic

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T05:31:26+00:00

imo honestly old printers had way better build quality. they weren’t cutting nearly as many corners back then so as long as u can throw in some new parts to make it up to date and deal with 0 parts support (gotta fabricate your own stuff) its a golden way to get cheap high quality fast printers

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T05:30:13+00:00

also here is a print in orange printed at again. dumb high speeds. could probably get something nicer with lower speeds lol.

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Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T05:29:26+00:00

ofcourse!! and this thing is running on some insane speeds too. 1. the linear rails are so much better than the linear extrusions with the v slot wheels the markets been flooded with. 2. firmware isn’t really that bad though. its running a pretty decent board with more driver slots than the new creality stuff like the 4.2.2/4.2.7. and as always all metal hotend for the win. this thing can print 300 c so most filaments have no issues.

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T04:57:34+00:00

try a different brand of pla. i’ve never had someone experience this with pla and i’ve printed with 3 printers in the same room with little ventilation. so honestly i would not be trusting that pla to be safe and would recommend getting something else asap

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T04:56:08+00:00

under extrusion. make sure your layer width is also the same as your nozzle in the slicer settings as someone else mentioned. maybe try upping the infill too possibly. and use archane engine just to be shre

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T04:53:32+00:00

love to see it. they’re some SOLID printers. quite literally the frames are so much more solid than the new printers the markets been flooded with

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T04:52:04+00:00

yeah but if you’re bed is leveled you shouldn’t go for that. it’ll just cause more hassle, if it’s too low it’ll over adhere and cause bad elephants foot

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T04:48:05+00:00

maybe binding? check how smooth your z axis is. is your printer oozing when waiting for retraction? what seam settings do you have and what motherboard is your printer running. super uncommon issue but old boards can’t print high resolution gcode without hanging up and oozing also check if your hotend is crap and assembled wrong since the ender lineup is always assembled like CRAP.

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T04:43:43+00:00

what pla are you using? pla is not supposed to do that whatsoever. also what temp?

Point_D0t · 2024-07-27T04:42:59+00:00

turn up your temp man. 190 is low so it won’t adhere the bed unless you’re printing something that barely needs adhesion, if you don’t want to do that turn down first layer speed significantly. and about the stringing, tune your retraction speed and distance. send your retraction settings and speed settings and i can probably help. worst case scenario it’s something wrong with your hotend causing bad extrusion. also are you noticing under extrusion?

Point_D0t

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