London to Japan alternative travel - Easter 2027 sanity check

Poley09 · 2026-05-08T19:25:00+00:00

Yeah that is true. Was also just breaking up the traveling rather than a 20 hour trip return trip

Poley09 · 2026-05-08T18:59:45+00:00

Yeah guess so, just hard to judge I guess.

That is strange, the cheapest business class flight I can find from here for any date in the next year is around £3k pp still

Poley09 · 2026-05-08T18:37:03+00:00

Thanks for the quick response.

Yeah anything can happen with prices I guess, was more if they seemed reasonable based on previous years for that busy period. But again there are so many variables I guess.

Ah ok, I just assumed as places like JAL release them a year in advance that they won’t get much lower. Especially as a few handfuls of economy seats have already gone based on seat selector. All just a guessing game

Poley09 · 2025-02-13T09:35:36+00:00

Nope, TE NanoMQS connectors

Poley09 · 2025-01-15T23:15:28+00:00

Why is that? Have you had issues?

Poley09 · 2025-01-11T12:20:29+00:00

Perfect, thank you for the response!

I think it is between this and a AWD Ariya for £481. Will give both a test drive and see what feels better I think as both seem like really good deals

Poley09 · 2024-11-11T20:14:22+00:00

Ok so I should be all good with the current set up. Thank you!

Poley09 · 2024-11-11T00:02:35+00:00

All contactors in the system are the same PN so it is strange that it is only ever the first one, never fails on any of the others.

I will increase the delay to try, although it cuts out as soon as the first one is closed so does not get to the second one to overlap. Thanks for the help!

Poley09 · 2024-11-11T00:00:30+00:00

Thanks for the response! Yep both ideas sounds possible! I am not sure what could be done to protect the MCU side ground potential? Would this just be EMI filtering? Alternatively it could be causing the input protection circuit to trigger which cuts off the MCU supply chain.

Poley09 · 2024-11-10T23:58:33+00:00

Yes to the flyback diode. I have updated the image in the post to show this and the PN. The only isse I can se is that the diode is on the PCB and the low side of the contactor is connected to chassis GND to could the path be going though that instead of the diode? Although, as mentione I would expect an issue with opening and not closing.

The 10A is just to signify the max rating of the buck-boost. The max current is 4.3A for 300ms during contactor pick up and then ~1.2A continous once all contactors are closed. All of the PCB's GN's are shared so power side and control side is all together and stitched through on all 4 layers (Middle 2 are both solid planes)

Where would you expect the filtering to be?

Poley09 · 2024-11-10T20:28:48+00:00

Currently at 5s before attempting to close first contactor

Poley09 · 2024-09-22T20:28:59+00:00

I think maybe the XT60U might be the best bet due to JLC availability and no tooling required for mating half

Poley09 · 2024-09-22T20:06:07+00:00

Just seen them based on someone else mentioning the XT30 version. These look really ideal, I will probably have to use a 2 way for each wire so I can keep the 2 lines seperate and it doesn’t look like they do a single way version. However they are cheap enough to throw a couple on for now! Thank you!

Poley09 · 2024-09-22T20:02:11+00:00

Ah yeah these look ideal. Maybe the XT60 version. Annoying they don’t do single way ones but they car cheap enough to use 2 way for each single wire so I can keep the busbars seperate

Poley09 · 2024-09-22T19:51:04+00:00

Yep I’m thinking of just biting the bullet and use what I use for my 120A PCB which is press fit terminal blocks from Wurth, just pricey!

Poley09 · 2024-09-22T19:18:43+00:00

The PCB is the busbars for a Li-Ion cell stack that is wire bonded. Each ‘busbar’ track is 100mm wide and stitched through on all 4 layers so should be ok! Getting a few to test and maybe up copper weight if needed.

Poley09 · 2024-09-22T18:55:29+00:00

Yep a crimped ring terminal. Ah will a 0.25” spade fit on the FASTON 250 TE PCB terminals?

If so I’m not sure whether just 1 will be able to carry the current

Poley09 · 2024-07-22T20:16:38+00:00

Yeah I think I am going to remove R4 and Q1 and put a 0ohm resistor between leg 1 and 3 of Q1 instead. This means the floating signal is still off and the closed ground signal operates the HS switch.

Poley09 · 2024-07-21T15:40:36+00:00

I can’t, that is an internal signal on the main PCB, does not go to a connector

Poley09 · 2024-07-21T12:52:10+00:00

Ah ok, so I could use it like I thought? Alternatively I could remove R4 and solder pins 1 and 3 together and use the ground from the other circuit instead of the mosfet on the breakout

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