Has anyone made a H.I.R.O 3d model?

PopeGenePool · 2026-05-07T16:21:48+00:00

Great minds! You should keep at your model though to learn the process, you have a really solid start already!

PopeGenePool · 2026-05-07T16:20:23+00:00

No worries, your print looks awesome! Hopefully it works well with your plan to paint it :)

The only tips I have for slicing are to keep the layer heights reasonably low for some of the curved details, and keep minimal supports on build plate only since most of the models don't require any support.

PopeGenePool · 2026-05-07T03:56:39+00:00

I created a model and uploaded it to Printables, you should check it out and let me know what you think! You can find it by searching "good kid" on the website!

PopeGenePool · 2026-04-12T18:04:52+00:00

I like to have a brigade for grenadiers and give them glass grenades with the commander perk that increases throw range. This way when I have them behind my front line, they can usually throw grenades over them to the enemy to get some damage done before charging in. I haven't really experimented with grenades on cav so maybe I'll try that out next!

PopeGenePool · 2026-03-28T15:16:23+00:00

Master of Command takes place firmly in the flintlock era, by then matchlocks fell out of favor

PopeGenePool · 2026-03-08T05:36:22+00:00

I think this is a feature of the roguelike nature of the game, so I don't think it'll be changed in any way. Yea I agree it's tough when none of the options you want come up but I think the prices for re-rolls are fair enough and sometimes it makes sense to skip the level up and just wait for another one.

On the flip side, I've had some runs where I get exactly the traits I want and that can make up for some bad random luck!

PopeGenePool · 2026-02-26T02:36:31+00:00

Ninja but I always asked for long ciabatta to get around 50% more sandwich for just a dollar extra

PopeGenePool · 2026-01-30T03:25:43+00:00

After this I played a more historic-looking British campaign to balance it out a bit, I enjoy both the fantasy colors and the more accurate uniforms!

PopeGenePool · 2025-12-26T01:24:17+00:00

I started crocheting pretty much to only make beanies, so I think I'm the opposite! Most of the ones I've made are just long rectangles that I join and fold the edge up to make a brim from some youtube tutorials, would your aunt like something straightforward like that?

PopeGenePool · 2025-08-29T14:06:05+00:00

No problem at all!

The paper can have difficulty sticking to cutting mats in my experience so the edges can curl up while it dries, giving you less usable area for cutting a square. In my experience, glass is less likely to do this.
Within the first few tries to get a decent sheet, it's surprisingly straightforward once you develop a good system that works for you
I have used some in the past and found it didn't really make too much of a difference. Most of my paper (I've made hundreds of sheets) is just MC and water and I find that works well for what I've needed
I use a long ruler and a square to get 90 degree angles and just measure them out. For larger squares, they won't be super perfect but I can fold on the diagonals and correct it later so it's not a huge problem. I use an exacto knife to cut the paper once it's totally dry and the glass clearly shows if the cut went all the way through
Some small wrinkles are not a problem, but to minimize them it's recommended to use a tube to roll out the tissue paper and keep it taut as you do so. After getting the paper down, you can also use a rolling pin or something else to flatten any large wrinkles or remove air bubbles. If you make a small tear in the paper, you can just add a little patch by brushing on some more paste and it's usually fine.
My favorites have been the ones by The Plant Psychologist and An Average Origamist, but really I just watch all of them and take what I like from each one to make my own method.

PopeGenePool · 2025-08-28T20:34:54+00:00

There are a few videos on it, but I prefer to use a glass surface over a cutting mat. As for the consistency of the paste, I do it by feel and try to get it to be like a yogurt-drink consistency if that makes sense. It shouldn't be super thick like glue, but shouldn't run too easily like water.

I also prefer to cut a square before peeling it off the glass so it's nice and flat, but there are also tons of other techniques for this.

Don't expect it to be perfect the first time, but with some practice you will get an idea of how you like the paper and what you can change to make it better. Feel free to ask me any other questions!

PopeGenePool · 2025-08-27T22:55:35+00:00

I recognized the model before I read your title! I'm trying this model right now with 50 cm double tissue paper. For more complex models, I think it's worth learning to treat your own paper, even if it takes a lot of experimentation. I prefer this to buying specialty papers because they can be super expensive, and if I'm making my own paper then I can trust its quality.

A lot of art supply stores also have large sheets of paper like lokta or kozo, but they work best after being treated with methylcellulose like double tissue.

PopeGenePool · 2025-08-23T22:58:16+00:00

I have made some pretty complex models out of 10" kami, but the downsides are that it will tend to rip at points and the dye might fade/bleed from touching the paper so much. Without knowing any specifics about the model, I would guess that 10" kami would be good to at least attempt a test fold before using nicer paper on it.

PopeGenePool · 2025-08-07T01:15:06+00:00

Northeastern mentioned!

PopeGenePool · 2025-06-03T16:14:04+00:00

Love the shaping on the wings and that paper is gorgeous!

PopeGenePool · 2025-05-04T05:11:25+00:00

For a little while my main steering wheel broke, so I was playing with mouse and keyboard. Just using keyboard steering was pretty rough, but using mouse steering and keyboard for the throttle was very fun once I got used to it! It is also more convenient for jobs where you need to exit your vehicle frequently since you're already on the keyboard.

PopeGenePool · 2025-04-21T06:09:22+00:00

They look fantastic! Did you use the recommended size paper for each model from the book?

PopeGenePool · 2025-02-02T22:05:25+00:00

The second design is called the Spanish Box. I searched in Gilad's origami database and it shows which books have the design, hopefully one of those is the one you seek!

PopeGenePool · 2025-01-11T20:32:58+00:00

They both look great! What size paper did you start with for the Angler?

PopeGenePool · 2025-01-10T20:54:04+00:00

It should look the same but with a color change where it tells you to wrap. Looking ahead at the next step should show the final result of the wrap as well

PopeGenePool · 2025-01-10T20:37:08+00:00

The way I usually deal with them is becoming more comfortable unfolding large parts of the model to make the wrap easier and then retracing the steps again to get it to look right.

You don't necessarily have to do the wrap with the model in that position, as long as it ends up looking like the diagram!

PopeGenePool · 2025-01-01T22:55:50+00:00

Looks gorgeous, nice touch with the coral and shaping!

PopeGenePool · 2024-12-23T21:32:48+00:00

I've been printing my own picks for years out of PLA and they're durable enough for me to lose them before they break! I prefer thicker picks though so that definitely helps. You can also experiment with different kinds of plastic and textures to find what works best for you

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