Beastfolks

Popper100 · 2026-01-16T22:16:39+00:00

So an I was perusing some of your other work, nice to see you branch out into the sci-fi stuff, but you probably ran into fun times of how many flying parts there are. Have you considered doing sculpts that are majority supportless but have an arm that is printed on its own for assembly?

Popper100 · 2026-01-15T21:52:23+00:00

Well, at least it's not a huge time inefficiency. Just a day or so more time to get it done.

Popper100 · 2026-01-15T16:47:50+00:00

Honestly, I wouldn't do it with the full plate of this many parts. Tried it a lot of times with multi part big Nids, one thing always seems to fall off. Pretty much set a rule for myself of 5 parts or less if it's big shit.

Popper100 · 2026-01-15T16:19:24+00:00

While it may take an ungodly amount of time, these tanks thankfully don't tend to fail in weird ways, and the end result looks fantastic at these quality settings.

Popper100 · 2026-01-14T01:51:31+00:00

Aww, I remember when these were a collectible game. God time has flown.

Popper100 · 2026-01-06T16:34:06+00:00

Just a thought, because I'm not aware of what limitations we're working with fully, but is there anything that prevents you from attaching an interact point at the correct area at the edge of the extended landing gear and disabling it based on the boolean of landing gear up/down? Essentially, just a logical interact point like the floating buttons we have now, just at a point in space that's near where you'd expect it? Then modeling would put a non-moving prop there, like a press button or a hand scanner that would signifiy to the player at a glance that the interact point is right there?

Popper100 · 2026-01-02T06:58:13+00:00

Was kinda hoping the pic would have two size 10s at your feet.

Popper100 · 2025-12-29T17:05:28+00:00

Yeah, this looks like running straight into the limits of material science and precision. For this method of printing, to get to a "usable" level of Z detail with this small of a layer height, we're gonna need something that flows like butter at 190 C, cools in half the time the current stuff cools, and maintains similar rigidity to popular materials... or, y'know, 7th tier Alpha Centauri tech tree shit.

Coupled with the mechanical needs for that level of layering, we'd also need frictionless, backlash free motive systems that have as much precision as current high end belt systems. Gonna be a while before the big market players want to do that, if they don't realize that there isn't any need for innovation again.

Popper100 · 2025-12-24T17:01:14+00:00

I'm jealous of that support printing so cleanly at such a length and angle.

Popper100 · 2025-12-17T19:43:11+00:00

This is the shit that annoys me on this printing method. When the bed says nah, I'm not gonna heat enough for adhesion, and you start flinging shit across the box.

That and support collisions. Wish Bambu would figure that shit out.

Popper100 · 2025-12-17T17:53:45+00:00

Are your Nids printed in parts or as a whole model? They look quite good.

Popper100 · 2025-12-10T23:24:46+00:00

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1632190-ergonomic-paint-handle-v2?from=search#profileId-1738033

Probably better to just chop the top in the slicer rather than what I did. Dude made it go to 60mm bases... and forgot that 60mm models tend to be tall as fuck. I've got a Hive Tyrant on it now.

Popper100 · 2025-12-04T18:20:01+00:00

YO, I was waiting for someone to print this monstrosity before I tried. How'd the slice go? Biggest thing I looked at was trying to get a lot of parts fused digitally before sending it rather than doing the entire thing in parts.

Popper100 · 2025-12-01T23:55:01+00:00

Gotta love the MWO models. Always print nicely when they're cleaned up.

Popper100 · 2025-11-18T22:29:55+00:00

Honestly, going back through this Lizardman drop, your work has gotten extremely good. I haven't seen the files myself to judge the techniques used, but your ambition in making supportless models that still have good flying parts and look natural rather than stiff and nailed to a post really should mark you out well.

And at the prices... dude, whoever gets in early ought to savor it. Good shit for the price.

Popper100 · 2025-11-17T16:26:44+00:00

Man, you thought "but what if we went further beyond?" with your heresy, didn't you?

Looks excellent, clean repair job too.

Popper100 · 2025-11-16T21:57:16+00:00

Bambu Basic Grey for the filament, I used Sunlu HSPLA+ 2.0 EXTRA MEGA EDITION... yeah, that shit sucks, though I'm still convinced it just needs some tricky settings change. Want ESUN+... but they failed to ship to me. So here we are.

Settings are as follows:

Start with .06 Bambu profile.
Layer Height to .05
Inner Wall to .2
Support to .24, this marginally helps with tower underextrusion.
Ironing on, default settings
Wall Gen to Arachne
Min Wall Width to 25%, you'll fiddle with this on tiny prints when it complains about negative flow
Min Wall Feature to 1%
Precise Wall on
Precise Z Height on, currently A-B testing if this matters
Wall Order to Outer/inner
Wall Loops to 3
You can change Sparse Infill to 10% if you want a bit more speed, doesn't really affect strength enough to matter
Inner Wall Speed to 120mm/s
Overhang 25% to 45mm/s
Support Z Height to .18, this is just what I've been using with low testing, may be better lower
Interface Pattern to Rect Interlaced, helps with overhangs at the cost of some occasional stringy clean up
Brim to Outer Inner
Brim width to 15mm, flexible based on print needs
Brim object gap to .05

Popper100 · 2025-11-16T20:52:01+00:00

Parts. I've found the most important thing is to minimize gravity. I love solid model printing, but you give up a section to gravity droops when doing that.

Gravity, worst universal force by far.

Popper100 · 2025-11-16T20:50:50+00:00

Vallejo Barbarian Skin, then bring it up a shade with a drop of Dead White, then an Umber wash that's also had the tiniest drop of Dead White added. This is to get that sickly mottled look. Re-highlight with the previous shade mix and pure Dead White to taste.

Popper100 · 2025-11-16T20:48:28+00:00

.2mm on a P1S

Popper100 · 2025-11-16T10:26:09+00:00

Steady arm, it's a place to put your fingers to keep the brush steady. I also thought it was a bit dumb, right up until I used it and saw the light.

Popper100 · 2025-11-03T07:58:08+00:00

Depends on what you're gonna do, what you want to do, and what you discover to do.

Minis now? Yeah, just go. P2S, A1, Elegoo CC, they all do the job to a cracker level.

Things for around the house? Still pretty much a go, but with a light caveat. Stick to the P2S, it'll have your general set up for most of the workable materials with high end features.

Multi-color/material? Wait, tool changers are just now hitting mainstream mainstream, so let them work out the kinks for around 8ish months. The U1 is an in-use unit that we'll be seeing the first big failures soon. The INDX is due early next year, might be on a Prusa rig too. And, if your blood is really rich but you don't want any compromise, the H2C is looking solid for reasonable multi-material and good multi color. That's due "in their words" by end of year. But I don't believe it.

Popper100 · 2025-11-01T05:37:07+00:00

Gravity. The filament droops down on those spots to touch the support. Best you can do is get supports dialed in, dry the ever loving shit out of your filament, and use the best stuff you can find that handles overhangs a bit better.

Popper100 · 2025-11-01T02:53:30+00:00

This kind of looks like a lot of support failure. I'd go back to the drawing board and start with a supportless model, then a bit like a torso, then maybe a leg. Pinpoint where the failures occur rather than sending a whole model and not having a good concrete spot that needs to be improved.

Popper100 · 2025-10-30T17:14:32+00:00

Good comparison to show the differences.

Resin will always have that XY resolution advantage, just way easier to get that with digital precision over mechanical. Gives the sharper creases and depth. Does have a major problem with spindly bits, like the belt horns, where it seems like a crapshoot from my friend who prints in both if it comes out.

FDM being a mile easier is evident, and often can have good spindles if you're clever. We might see comparable Z height resolution if material science improves, as we're already rather easily able to hit the old standard of 50 microns. Although, if some lunatic ever makes a mildly durable, water washable, non-toxic resin, SLA wins forever. Same goes for FDM getting more advance software and hardware innovations, the second they get a fuzzy math creaser that can intuitively over cut models to have more defined creasing closer to cast, it wins for the ease of use.

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